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Thread: 1jz and Haltech e6k

  1. #1
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    Default 1jz and Haltech e6k

    I'm pairing e6k and 1jz with original ignitor, sensors and coils. I've get basic setup information from haltech but ignition is still causing problems. According Haltech's 1jz pdf-guide, ign page tooth offset should be 2. When I load basemap, it says that ign tooth offset should be 8. Neither one starts the engine.
    Can someone with running 1jz and haltech tell me what are correct values for tooth offset / sensor angle and how 1jz igniter should be connected to haltech wiring.

  2. #2
    regular fella Conversion King chris davey's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1jz and Haltech e6k

    AFAIK clint has celie-sue's jza61 which was running a haltech. Also, skip used to have one but doesn't the forums much since he sold his car.
    Quote Originally Posted by MR 1JZ View Post
    that interior is so jap...just looking at it makes me want to kill a whale
    QUICKEST 1JZ'S IN OZ

  3. #3
    Junior Member Grease Monkey
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    Default Re: 1jz and Haltech e6k

    If you plan to go down the usual 1JZ mod route i.e. Intercooler, Zorst, dump pipes etc. the factory igniter is gonna start causing problems (ignition breakdown) around 180 rwkw or so. I had to upgrade to the haltech ignitors.

    With regards to the trigger from memory the CAS has 24 teeth. The trigger angle and tooth offset will depend on what Cam Angle Sensor you went off aswell, i used the rear one. It makes it easier that you a running waste spark so you only need to cover the ignition over 360 degrees not 720, because of this there will be 2 different tooth offsets which will work, 12 apart. Anyway without going into the theory behind it (because im probably not the best person to explain it and am confusing myself thinking about it) what you need to do is lock your timing at 10 degrees. Set your tooth offset at 1 then increase the trigger angle in say 15 degrees increments attempting to start the car at every increment. Once you get to 90 degrees you need to then change the tooth offset to 2 and reapeat the process, then 3 etc. until the engine sounds like it's gonna start. I know there is overlap there between tooth offset and trigger angle, i think it would either be 15 or 30 degrees but im having trouble working this out . So once you get to a postion where the engine is close to turning over just alter the trigger angle until you get the timing correct at 10 degrees, you will need to check this with a timing light. Because of the coil over spark setup doing this with a conventional timing light is difficult, what i did was get 2 old spark leads cut the end off and trim back the shielding to reveal the "wires", then wedge this end into the coil pack and put the usual end on the spark plug, you can now attach the timing light lead.

    What you can't do is have a trigger angle any higher then about 70 as it won't be able to get full advance. So as i mentioned before you will have to then set the tooth offset either side of where it was working and add or take off the overlap angle, as i said i can't remember or work out if it is 15 or 30 degrees. e.g. if the timing is right at tooth offset 5 and 80 degree trigger angle, you will have to change the tooth offest to either 4 or 6 and the trigger angle to 65 or 50 degrees.

    Really wish I could explain the theory to you properly but as i said I can't seem to work it out properly, hopefully you will get a proper explanation for someone more knowledgeable on here. But if you do what I said above you will get the engine running and thats the important thing BTW i think my JZ was set as tooth offset 10 and angle about 50 - 60 degrees.

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    Default Re: 1jz and Haltech e6k

    Thanks for good information Skip.
    1JZ CAS wheel has 12 tooths, so one tooth is 30 degrees. In Haltech ign setup you have to tell tooths per one cam revolution so that's why it's 24 there.
    I put home sensor to rear cam and tried skips's setup with no luck. Won't start.
    Is it possible to use bigger offset than 4? According e6k manual home resets ignition pulse to first ignition channel, after that haltech counts offset pulses and fires the first time. then it fires every 4 (24/6) pulses. If offset is set to 10 that means engine runs nearly one turn before is fires. It should miss 2/3 cylinders with that setup?! Also if you check datapage while turning, with 10 offset rpm goes like 120 120 0 120 120 0 when with 2 offset its pretty much 120 120 120 ... My haltech's firmware is version 2 (=old), I guess newer firmware would work differently.
    Can someone check ign page values from running engine and also tell how they have connected haltechs ign outs to igniter. That would help me a lot to rule out bad igniter / ecu.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: 1jz and Haltech e6k

    Thanks for the clarification with the CAS there OldCell77, thats why I was getting confused!! Makes sense now. Did you just try my setup or did you keep running through all the tooth offests and trigger angles? If you did that and it wouldnt start i think you may have trouble else where. Why don't you just pull all the plugs out and disable the injectors and do that lead thing i mentioned and earth the number 1 sparkplug on the engine to check that you have spark regarless if it's firing at the right position or not?

    It is possible to use a bigger offset than 2 as thats purely dependent on where the home signal trigger is with relation to the position of Cylinder 1 in it's firing stroke, or even exhaust stroke as it is waste spark. Plus as i said my tooth offest was either 10 or 11.

    Attached image is the correct igniter config.


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    Junior Member Grease Monkey
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    Default Re: 1jz and Haltech e6k

    Wow that was a little big huh?

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    Default Re: 1jz and Haltech e6k

    Ok, original igniter and plugs were just dead. I replaced igniter with bosch ......203 igniter and get engine running. I had to use tooth offset 3 and angle was something like 70-80.
    Now i have other problem, engine won't rev over 5500 properly. Even a VERY light load causes problems, effect is nearly like hitting a rev limiter. Fuel seems to be ok. Car was driven in dyno, it never went over 6000 rpm, best result was 229 kw / 5700 (engine). Power curve was still going up so i'd like to sort out this problem.
    What kind of igniters people have used? I'm looking for 260-270 kw as final result.

  8. #8
    Junior Member Backyard Mechanic jezza323's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1jz and Haltech e6k

    use the haltech ignitor box
    EP91 Toyota Starlet - AUStarletClub

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    Default Re: 1jz and Haltech e6k

    Id suggest to use the haltech igniters. When I bought mine they were 3 channel so I had to buy 2, don't know if they have upgraded since that time.

  10. #10
    regular fella Conversion King chris davey's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1jz and Haltech e6k

    I use a microtech x6 igniter which makes sense as I use a MT ecu also 6 channel, proven to provide strong spark for big hp cars. Don't know how much they are by themselves though?
    Quote Originally Posted by MR 1JZ View Post
    that interior is so jap...just looking at it makes me want to kill a whale
    QUICKEST 1JZ'S IN OZ

  11. #11
    Current UZA80 owner Chief Engine Builder JustCallMeOrlando's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1jz and Haltech e6k

    They're less than $150 from memory, I paid $105 delivered for my X4 igniter.
    Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association

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    Default Re: 1jz and Haltech e6k

    Igniters? ¤"#¤"# Crap, I used only one bosch ......203, splitted igniter output1 to coil1&6 neg, etc. Wiring connection was pretty much like in the picture couple post ago. So I have to get another 203, split haltech's ign outputs to both igniters and that's it? Our local haltech dealer was not sure if e6k will control two "dummy" ignitors with one ign output.

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