How to install MV autos shiftbox into A340E

[chris davey]

How to install MV automatics manaulising shift box for Toyota A340e automatic

I have a jzx90 Chaser 1jz-gte and automatic in my car. It uses the whole Chaser loom and dash. Because of this I cannot simply chop the old wires off and connect them to the shift box instead. If I did this, I would lose my gear indicators on the dash.

Firstly, to do this you will need a wiring diagram. I got mine from http://www.1jz-gte.us/documents/SubD...ZWiringECT.pdf. The main pages to start with are pages 5 & 6 as these show the wiring for the shifter.

Find plug A (which comes from the shifter, over the gearbox and to the passenger side) and get a multi meter and test which wire is which. On my car it goes like this
1 Park green
2 Drive brown
3 Second peach
4 Low yellow
5 Power black
6 Nuetral pink

I need to splice into 2,3 & 4 and wire them into the supplied plug. You will receive instructions that look like this. See the diagram further on relating to the Drive input and the relays required.


So that is the input side of the shifting sorted. Next is the output side.

The automatic gearbox shifts using 2 solenoids. Which gear is selected depends on which solenoids are receiving power. (http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/librar...at/AT_012.html see table 2 for more information) These wires come from the tailshaft end of the gearbox and are black, white and yellow. You have to find plug “I” and cut the black and white wires. The white wire is Solenoid A and the blacke wire is solenoid B. These are not spliced in as we don’t want the stock ecu sending signals to these. These 2 wires are then plugged into the shift box as indicated in the instructions.

Finally, we must connect the power and ground to the shift box. The power should have a 10amp fuse on it and it should pass through the OD switch. This is because when the OD switch is switched on, it will cut power to the shift box and therefore the solenoids and when the solenoids are not powered, 4th gear is selected.

The power must go through a relay like the diagram below as it needs to be totally shut off. Also, the 12v input wires from L,2 & D are enough to make the shift box have power and send the power to the solenoids. That is why we must wire the D input onto the same circuit as the OD button to totally cut the power to the shift box. AFAIK this is only the case if you need to splice the input wires for dash indication like I did.



The other solenoid in the gearbox is used to control the lockup function. This is normally switched on when you are up to cruise speed and under light load. We can also wire this to a button so that we can manually activate it. This can cause damage to the gearbox under WOT so be careful. This effectively reduces the amount of energy wasted in the automatic and puts more power to the wheels. Just like fixing a slightly slipping clutch in a manual. To do this we can get the yellow wire from the “I” plug and run it to a button. This button should be a pop in pop out style not one that you have to hold down (Like the power button in my car). I recommend a button because if you forget to turn the lockup off the car will stall when you slow down. (Just like stopping in a manual without putting the clutch in) I haven’t wired this in in my car because I am upgrading to a torque converter that doesn’t have a lockup function.

Then I found the positive wire for the manu - pwr button and spliced the lock up power wire into that so the pwr button now controls the lockup. *

Big thanks to Sean aka Ms-75 for his help

[petespipes]

Well done chris.have you road tested? how does it feel? cheers.pete.

[chris davey]

I have had a brief road test and it felt good. It has the same feeling on gear change as normal because I don’t have a shift kit yet but it does change instantly whereas before it wouldn’t want to change until I let off the throttle a little.

[MS-75]

Cool-so it all works then Chris? Good. All the gear indicator lights on the dash function?

Have you got O/D running?

Sean

[chris davey]

Yep, all works well.

Gear indicators work.

Haven’t got the OD wire yet as was girlfriend’s weekend off work and it was way too hot to work on the car anyway Will get that sorted sometime this week.

Chris

[Mr DOHC]

no excuses, do it now, lay down some runs, so when winter comes your times will improve

[chris davey]

alrighty then. Only problem is my turbo is smoking. Actual turbo not out the exhaust. Hoping it is one of the oil lines and not the seals but I think I could be wrong.

[SL666]

heheheh smoking is bad for you

[chris davey]

Looks like I shouldn't have been lazy and got a proper gasket in there to start with

[SL666]

is anyone running any other sort of controller on their auto? (looks like im going to run the 7m controller..) i wouldn't mind going to one of those 'flashonebro' controllers from the US..

[chris davey]

Just thought I would let everyone know that the controller is fully done in my car now and I highly recommend it. Works great and changes gears when I want to and not when it is ready to

[SL666]

just out of interest, why did you go with this option instead of a fully manualised trans? -

[chris davey]

you mean a manual conversion?

I already had the a340e all installed and working fine. Didn't want the hassel of finding all the bits required for manual conversion plus would need r154 to be able to hold up and they aren't cheap. Plus I like how the auto is much more kind on the rest of the drivetrain. Basically, easier and cheaper for me. My car is designed for drag racing and auto is better for that IMO.

[SL666]

no i mean a manually shifted auto.. maybe im just thinking too old school.. my hilux is the first auto ive ever owned..

[Mr DOHC]

caquse a fully manualised auto is about $3000, plus he needed to take the control of the auto away from the ECU cause the wolf he had will soon be controlling the ignition as well as the fuel