Hilux RN105R - Slave Cylinder issue - any Hilux gurus out there?

[Grega]

Hi,

Seems my Hilux at some stage has had the slave cylinder, um, replaced.

Now, the replacement for it from PBR - is identical to this one.
Does anyone know (who knows Hiluxes) if ; this is the correct slave cylinder for my hilux, or, whether the cast (body) should be larger, OR whether the pushrod from the slave cylinder to the clutch fork should in fact, be ALOT longer (as you can see, its very short, but, the mounting via one bolt only, is, dodgy)

Would appreciate any thoughts/comments please,

Many Thanks

[convertableTA23]

Looks like your clutch fork is too far back. Possibly wrong pressure plate and/or incorrect pivot ball adjustment. Will have a look tomorrow at my brothers lux, it's the same model.

[Grega]

thanks mate, appreciate it. keep me in the know, grab a pic if you could?

[Cuzzo]

How does that even disengage the clutch!?

The body definetly looks like it should be longer.
As per factory, there should be a rubber line into it, not hard line. So even the line is not factory.

If you measure the bolt spacing and closest bolt to fork spacing you might be able to find one from the book at the brake n clutch place.
Im a bit worried the fork or clutch setup is wrong too.

[Grega]

yeah it works, just how well is to be determined. definately an interesting one. you do make an interesting point on the hard line - although, the line from the master to the 'hard' line is rubber.
need to see a pic of what it 'should' look like. thats the key bit here to success i think.
the JB4130 is the correct part for it from PBR, which, is identical to what you see in the picture.
the later model is the JB4270 which is superceded by the 4130, however, I did manage to find one at Repco - I rang PBR yesterday arvo and they suggested to go to Repco.
whats good about the JB4270 is it comes with a 'rod' which goes between the slave cylinder and the fork, which, will make up that distance - the current rod in there is about 25mm long, the new one is 70mm long

[convertableTA23]

Cuzzo, the factory line is hard coming out of the slave cylinder. It has a hard line from a bracket under the started to the slave, the flex line joins two hard lines. The vehicle is as the factory made it, so why try and find some other thing that may do the job.

Your slave appears right, looks like the pushrod is too short though, or the slave is off a different Toyota and has a different machining depth on the piston where the pushrod sits in. The other thing which is hard to see for your photo is if the fork is in the right place, at rest it comes out in approximately the centre of the hole in the bell. The dust cover on the slave is a lot more compressed than it is on my brothers, so that kinda points to the pushrod or piston depth, however, the slave cylinder has a spring internal to keep the clutch in adjustment which will extend the slave out. If the slave has been compressed excessively by means of moving the mounting it can appear this way. Worst case is you make a pushrod the right length out of a high tensile bolt.

Sorry about the lack of photos, my phone camera is shit and I didn't have anything else. I have to go to mum and dad's again tomorrow Arvo so let me know if you want me to take some pics. I'll drop his slave off the side of the box and measure his pushrod for you too.

[4th surf]

OMFG I just had to clean my 'puter screen as I saw that pic and sprayed a mouthfull of beer everywhere..

I'd be pulling the box out and having a very good look at both the clutch fork and it's pivot bolt. Either the clutch fork has split where it sits on the pivot or the "Pivot bolt" has lost it's head. Both are not uncommon problems and replacement parts are not that expensive from Toyota part nos as follows

Fork 31204-20071

Pivot bolt 31236-30060

Rubber boot (to keep muck out) 31126-20060

[Grega]

thanks convertibleta23
no need for photos - thats all cool - am better now - with the new slave in the correct mounting holes DAMN is that pipe hard to bend!!!!

LOL @ 4th surf. beer spray.
yes the fork does seem to be a whole way back doesn't it. not keen on taking the box out, although not *that* big a job i suppose...
i replaced the slave with jb4270 and, it has a nice long pushrod that comes with it (65mm) and it works fine now.
you must have read my mind as i need to get that boot.

and my starter motor died this morning to which RACV came to the rescue...

[convertableTA23]

box can be out in a couple of hours, just gotta be not too scared and split the transfer off the box, not bust your arse with it all in one.

[Grega]

i was just going to pop the front drive shaft off and take the whole kit and kaboodle out

oh here is the new one sitting in its place....



oh i drained all the fluid out, cleaned the master cylinder reservoir as it was black, and, pushed new clean fluid thru until the fluid coming into the bleeder was nice and clean and not black

[convertableTA23]

Trust me, without a hoist definatly split the transfer off the box. All you need to do is undo the 6? Bolts holding the two together after you have removed the shifters, then it just slides off.

[Grega]

ok will get under it and have a look..........
planning on building (or buying) a trans jack too as my current jack won't be tall enough

[convertableTA23]

It's cheaper to give a mate a 6 pack. But if you want one trade tools direct do an adapter for a standard trolley jack that is good quality.

[Grega]

looking at that adaptor i'll get some plate and angle iron and build my own. too easy. thanks mate.

[4th surf]

Do you have an engine crane? if you do just poke the boom thru the door and wrap a chain around the gearbox and use that to lift it in and out, no need to remove the transfer this way as it helps balance everything. Also if you do remove the transfer as it's a G52 box you will drop oil everywhere and there is a gasket between the transfer and box which will need replacing. oils are Castrol VMX80 in the gearbox and 75w90 in the transfer, 3.5 and 1.5 litres respectively