Tank -> Fuel Pump -> Fuel Rail -> FPR -> Retun Line -> Tank
Fuel Pressure should go up and down depending on inlet manifold pressure.
Car : AE86 , 16v 4AG with Adaptronic Base Map
Hi every one,
I got Sard FPR in fresh rebuild today I start the car for first time if I put it after the injectors like they said in diagram car won’t run properly; fuel pressure goes up and down
But when I hooked it up before injectors its run without any problem… but pressure gauge in FPR won't display anything, gauge in end of fuel rail display around 38psi.
(from day one when I show that diagram to my engine builder he didn’t agree with me he told me I should run it before injectors ; because I told him he put it after injectors and now he laugh at me )
But When I did research 90% of ppl says put it after injectors……….. Now I’m confused
cause i wanna do breaking before take it to tune so don't wanna run too lean or rich.
So would like to know anyone face this problem
Last edited by Animal15; 11-10-2011 at 05:15 PM.
Tank -> Fuel Pump -> Fuel Rail -> FPR -> Retun Line -> Tank
Fuel Pressure should go up and down depending on inlet manifold pressure.
Daily: Toyota '05 Rav4 Sport
Projects: Celica GT4 ST185 (5S-GTE), Celica RA28 Celica (1UZ-FE)
Previous: Corona RT104, Starlet GT Turbo
Classic Celica Club of South Australia
I have a Sard on my 4AGZE and I hooked it after the injectors as per the stock setup and it works fine.
You got a genuine Sard fpr? There are a lot of fakes floating around.....
Your mechanic is doing it wrongs.
A fuel pressure regulator regulates pressure upstream by bleeding off excess fuel through it until the pressure meets the set point. This means the controlled pressure must be BEFORE the FPR, which means you need the FPR to be at the end of the rail. Unless you have a returnless rail, which you dont..
The pressure regulator is designed to maintain this pressure at a constant differential above manifold pressure, not absolute pressure. Example if you have 1 bar boost, you will see the rail pressure as the set point PLUS 1 bar, which is why you may be seeing the rail pressure change.
Last edited by trdee; 11-10-2011 at 06:54 PM.
+1 for install the FPR after the injectors, the way they are designed it simply wont work before them.
I assume you tried adjusting it when you had it after the injectors? the way it should be installed.
Also, +1 for a lot of fakes around, I hope you didnt get unlucky and get one!
1967 RT40 Corona Current Project - http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=46182
FPR is not fake (got directly from japan through Jesse Streeter with fuel pump kit),
i know what u guys saying...
But what i can't understand then why it runs shity after injectors and quite good before them
Could just be wrong fuel pressure, could be not enough for your injectors or could be too much.
88 gz20 soarer built 1ggte gt30/40 osgiken twin plate j160 gearbox.
you sure you havent routed your lines some retarded way and it actually is after the injectors when you think it's before them? look at the flow path carefully.
if not, then something else is dodgy with the tune etc. it simply should not work the other way, unless you went back in time and killed isaac newton and made yourself the god of physics
What base pressure was used in the adaptronic map? and what base pressure is set on the fpr
Are you also using the same size injectors? (or entered the injector size into the tune appropriately)
1977 RA35 Celica GT - I4 | 2007 GSV40R Aurion - V6
Don't live life being scared of death, live in the fear of not truly living. RP 2012
trdee
i follow this
as Tune
base map install by Status (for 210cc that what i have ), don't knw abt map pressure
so how to know FPR pressure with out hooking up...
You have to take the OEM (factory) fuel pressure regulator off the rail, and use
an adaptor to give you a hose tail that you can use to hook up your Sard. It's no
good hooking the Sard to the tail off the OEM FPR. Then you have two regulators
in series, and that ain't gonna work !!
Cheers... jondee86
yeah i remove the OEM FPR only got OEM Damper
umm yep, having the stock OEM one still fitted is bad thing and could cause the problem you are experiencing. But i doubt you would of left it fitted, it pays to mention it though.
Can you take a photo of your setup for us perhaps? that would be so much easier? also check that you havent got your feed and return fuel lines mixed up by accident?
1967 RT40 Corona Current Project - http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=46182
here....
but i remove the FPR as you can see filter ---> Rail
this what i got in my phone right now... 2moro when i visit da workshop get one with FPR fitted.
I think you have yours a bit mixed up?
It might not make much difference, but on my GZE, the inlet (with the damper) is on the gearbox end of the rail, and the outlet with the adapter going to the Sard is on the cam belt end.
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