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Thread: Oil cooler block - oil cooler line on 7AFE

  1. #1
    Forum Member 1st year Apprentice
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    Default Oil cooler block - oil cooler line on 7AFE

    Finally today stripped the lower engine sump guard and front bumper off to see how bad the oil leak is. Its leaks on the 1st hose "15778‑16080" from engine block to oil cooler.

    Funny thing is, I don't know how to plumb the new oil cooler and filter relocation kit on the 7A. Originally 7A oil cooler works like this "Engine block adaptor plate - 1 hose to oil cooler(The current leaky hose) - oil cooler - return hose to aluminum adaptor on oil sump"?

    If I were to install a oil cooler and filter relocation kit, how am I gonna plumb the hose? Do I just plug the hole on the aluminum sump adaptor?

    Any one can shed some lights?

  2. #2
    Junior Member Backyard Mechanic
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    Default Re: Oil cooler block - oil cooler line on 7AFE

    I personally would block off that hose and just use the relocation kit you have.

  3. #3
    Junior Member Backyard Mechanic Rhyno's Avatar
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    Default Re: Oil cooler block - oil cooler line on 7AFE

    Hey,

    I'm not familar with the 7afe but I am with 4ag's and oil coolers on different cars. I am currently running a filter relocator on my 3sg, and I am about to install an oil cooler as we are not moving into the hotter part of the year for the NT.

    As I understand it the correct way to install an aftermarket relocator and oil cooler is:

    Plumb from the Adaptor/sandwich plate --> line to the filter relocator --> through the filter --> line to the oil cooler --> through oil cooler --> line returning to your sandwich plate. This would be how you did it IF you didn't have a sump return.

    As you do have a sump return, I think it would be best to block of the return line on the adaptor, and use the stock return to the sump.

    Hope that helps.

    Ryan

  4. #4
    Junior Member Too Much Toyota
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    Default Re: Oil cooler block - oil cooler line on 7AFE

    If the 7AFE cooler is like the 7M, it's a bypass cooler - the relief valve after the pump bleeds excess pressure/oil out to a cooler where it then dumps back to the sump. As these run at fairly low pressure and low flow, you can use a transmission cooler for these (and that's how I've setup my Z11 gravel barge).

    You can't just block the port on the block otherwise the relief valve won't work as designed and you'll get stupidly high oil pressure ahead of the oil filter and in the system in general. Likewise, you can't feed the cooler output back to the oil system via an adaptor plate - it has to dump to an open area like the sump.

    If you want to use a sandwich adaptor to feed an externally mounted filter & full-flow cooler, then consider those systems separate from the existing factory system (which effectively cools the oil in the sump).
    ------------------------------
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  5. #5
    Junior Member Backyard Mechanic Rhyno's Avatar
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    Default Re: Oil cooler block - oil cooler line on 7AFE

    "You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to thechuckster again." haha

    Interesting! I didnt realise the oil coolers worked like that, very interesting. So would this work: Repair the damaged line to the cooler and let that run as intended to as stock, just cooling the oil bypassing the pump. Then fit the relocator and cooler as you would normally.

    As I see it this way you would be cooling 100% of the engines oil? Perfect for a 7agte?

  6. #6
    Junior Member Too Much Toyota
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    Default Re: Oil cooler block - oil cooler line on 7AFE

    Rhyno: I know that 5/6/7MGE work this way (bypass cooler) - but no idea about other motors. The 3SGTE/5SFE donut cooler is a full-flow cooler so this approach doesn't apply.

    So would this work: Repair the damaged line to the cooler and let that run as intended to as stock, just cooling the oil bypassing the pump. Then fit the relocator and cooler as you would normally.
    yes, tho the under-lined bit is not quite right - it's cooling the oil that the pressure-relief valve vents back to the sump.

    Am not sure if it's an ideal way of cooling as you've now got 2 coolers up front and piping to suit. What you gain (cooler oil in the sump as well as full-flow cooling) might be lost with the excess weight and complexity.

    If you went racing, then I'd simply loop the factory bypass cooler with a shot length of pipe and run a full-flow (and thermostatically controlled) cooler & filter, all fed via a spin-on adaptor.

    If you lived in an extremely cold climate you could consider feeding the factory cooler outlet to the trans cooler found in the bottom of the radiator (if from an auto) rather than an air to-oil cooler out front. This way, the engine oil would get up to coolant temps quite quickly.
    ------------------------------
    ST185 road barge / MZ11 forest barge / RA65 garage barge

  7. #7
    Junior Member Backyard Mechanic Rhyno's Avatar
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    Default Re: Oil cooler block - oil cooler line on 7AFE

    Cool, thanks for the clarification. "You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to thechuckster again."

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    Forum Member 1st year Apprentice
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    Default Re: Oil cooler block - oil cooler line on 7AFE

    Quote Originally Posted by thechuckster View Post
    If the 7AFE cooler is like the 7M, it's a bypass cooler - the relief valve after the pump bleeds excess pressure/oil out to a cooler where it then dumps back to the sump. As these run at fairly low pressure and low flow, you can use a transmission cooler for these (and that's how I've setup my Z11 gravel barge).

    You can't just block the port on the block otherwise the relief valve won't work as designed and you'll get stupidly high oil pressure ahead of the oil filter and in the system in general. Likewise, you can't feed the cooler output back to the oil system via an adaptor plate - it has to dump to an open area like the sump.

    If you want to use a sandwich adaptor to feed an externally mounted filter & full-flow cooler, then consider those systems separate from the existing factory system (which effectively cools the oil in the sump).
    Yeah mate, 7A has the same bypass oil cooler like the one you described from 7M. Its kinda silly to ask but, is the pressure relief valve on the bypass block control the oil pressure? or there is another pressure relief valve on the oil pump?

    The reason I ask is because if I decided not to use the stock oil cooler anymore, I have to take out the bypass adaptor and put a 4AC filter stud and run the oil filter directly on the block. what will control the oil pressure if the only pressure relief valve in the factory system is on that bloody bypass adaptor?

  9. #9
    Junior Member Too Much Toyota
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    Default Re: Oil cooler block - oil cooler line on 7AFE

    If it's like the 7M system (clicky), then the only pressure regulation is via that port so you can't block it up (tho you can plumb it directly to the sump).

    Note: in those diagrams is also has a relief valve on the folter - this simply bypasses the filter if it's blocked up.
    ------------------------------
    ST185 road barge / MZ11 forest barge / RA65 garage barge

  10. #10
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia
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    Default Re: Oil cooler block - oil cooler line on 7AFE

    Quote Originally Posted by thechuckster View Post
    If it's like the 7M system (clicky), then the only pressure regulation is via that port so you can't block it....
    That diagram shows both valves, for pump pressure & flow to the cooler. The mickeymouse one for a clogged filter doesn't count.
    'I've scrapped better.' John stated when asked about the car by the guy with the silver tipped cowboy boots!

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