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Thread: W5x onto 18R

  1. #1
    My Wife says I have Too Much Toyota o_man_ra23's Avatar
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    Post W5x onto 18R

    Gday all,

    It seems I have piecemeal explained this several times, and should put this info in one place.

    Please excuse this thread for a bit, as I will add photos later.

    Ok, so you want to drop 20kgs off your vehicle weight, and get some better ratios, but aren't sure how to put a W5x (ie W55 through W58) onto the back of your 18R. Well here's an explaination of what will and won't work for a number of applications. There will be some times when there is another obstacle to overcome (ie you are doing this in a mini minor), but for the majority of people doing this conversion, I should be able to cover all bases for you.

    First step - get a box. I can't give full details for all donor vehicles and their pros and cons, though that info is around so do some searches before asking. The easiest boxes for this conversion are the ones found behind 21R and 22R motors. So any of the RA6x series Celicas, or the RT142 Corona are the popular items.

    Next step depends if you are upgrading from auto to manual, or from cast iron manual to manual. If you are going from auto, you will need to turf your old slush box, including the flex plate and flex plate bolts. The engine backing plate will be fine for re-use, just your inspection covers will be kind of redundant. You will need to get a flywheel and some flywheel bolts. These can be picked up second hand for next to nix, or you can purchase aftermarket items. The bolt thread is M10x1.25. You will need to get a clutch kit. There are 2 types, with the only difference being the throwout bearing. Get the later version (just ask for one to suit an RT142 and you can't go wrong). You will also need relevant manual pedal box, clutch master cylinder, fixed line and flexible line. These will need to be sourced from a wrecker etc (master cyl can be had new). A new slave cylinder is also in order. Get the one to suit the RT142, again there is a difference with the early Wx0 versions (which were adjustable, but not suitable). You will also need to install a spigot bearing into the back of the crank. Last but not least, you will need to short out the neutral start circuit. I will provide more info on this later when I have diagrams available.

    If you are upgrading from an early W50 or W40 (identified by adjustable clutch slave cylinder and cast iron throwout arm), you will need at a minimum a new clutch slave cylinder and throwout bearing. But while you are going to all this trouble, it would be wise to give your flywheel and clutch a birthday anyway.

    If you are upgrading from a later W50 or W40, then you are in lots of luck, and don't need to change a thing. Again though, isn't it easier to change out the clutch and flywheel while the system is apart??

    Other things which will be the same are your gearbox xmember, speedo cable, gearbox mount and tailshaft. Depending which gearbox you bought, and what you originally had, you may need to cut a new hole in your transmission tunnel to suit the shifter position. There are 4 shifter positions (that I know of) available for the W5x.

    Ok, now the hard parts.

    Hard bit 1: gearbox xmember mounting to body.
    The gearbox xmember bolts to the body using 2 bolts. When you put a W5x in, the xmember will move rearwards such that the front holes of the xmember will line up with the rear holes in the body. If you are lucky (ie have an RA40), then there will be a third set of holes in the body for your pleasure. If you are unlucky (ie have an RA23), then you will only have 2 holes in the body. There are a few ways of solving this, I will post up possible solutions at a later time, however there are also methods already available on the intawebs if you search.

    This is what I did for my temporary one. Need to do a tidier version, however it works.


    Hard bit 2: block dowels.
    The 18Rs had 2 dowels which go around the lower block to bellhousing bolts (they are hollow dowels). The later blocks did not have these, as such the bellhousing of the W5x does not have provision for them. This can be rectified by using a die grinder (or milling equipment or big fuck off drill bit if you have them available) and partially reaming the holes in the bellhousing out to allow fitment of the dowels. I will have a look when I get home, but I would hazard a guess you can also cut the dowels flush with the back of the block.

    Once you have all that sorted... it's done!! Really is a simple conversion, only a few minor points to watch out for. As mentioned, I will add to this with photos and diagrams at a later stage, just wanted to get the main info out first.
    Last edited by o_man_ra23; 20-01-2011 at 06:11 AM. Reason: added photo
    Cheers, Owen
    1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
    Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
    Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.

  2. #2
    Forum Member Grease Monkey
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    Default Re: W5x onto 18R

    Quote Originally Posted by o_man_ra23 View Post
    Gday all,

    It seems I have piecemeal explained this several times, and should put this info in one place.

    Please excuse this thread for a bit, as I will add photos later.

    Ok, so you want to drop 20kgs off your vehicle weight, and get some better ratios, but aren't sure how to put a W5x (ie W55 through W58) onto the back of your 18R. Well here's an explaination of what will and won't work for a number of applications. There will be some times when there is another obstacle to overcome (ie you are doing this in a mini minor), but for the majority of people doing this conversion, I should be able to cover all bases for you.

    First step - get a box. I can't give full details for all donor vehicles and their pros and cons, though that info is around so do some searches before asking. The easiest boxes for this conversion are the ones found behind 21R and 22R motors. So any of the RA6x series Celicas, or the RT142 Corona are the popular items.

    Next step depends if you are upgrading from auto to manual, or from cast iron manual to manual. If you are going from auto, you will need to turf your old slush box, including the flex plate and flex plate bolts. The engine backing plate will be fine for re-use, just your inspection covers will be kind of redundant. You will need to get a flywheel and some flywheel bolts. These can be picked up second hand for next to nix, or you can purchase aftermarket items. The bolt thread is M10x1.25. You will need to get a clutch kit. There are 2 types, with the only difference being the throwout bearing. Get the later version (just ask for one to suit an RT142 and you can't go wrong). You will also need relevant manual pedal box, clutch master cylinder, fixed line and flexible line. These will need to be sourced from a wrecker etc (master cyl can be had new). A new slave cylinder is also in order. Get the one to suit the RT142, again there is a difference with the early Wx0 versions (which were adjustable, but not suitable). You will also need to install a spigot bearing into the back of the crank. Last but not least, you will need to short out the neutral start circuit. I will provide more info on this later when I have diagrams available.

    If you are upgrading from an early W50 or W40 (identified by adjustable clutch slave cylinder and cast iron throwout arm), you will need at a minimum a new clutch slave cylinder and throwout bearing. But while you are going to all this trouble, it would be wise to give your flywheel and clutch a birthday anyway.

    If you are upgrading from a later W50 or W40, then you are in lots of luck, and don't need to change a thing. Again though, isn't it easier to change out the clutch and flywheel while the system is apart??

    Other things which will be the same are your gearbox xmember, speedo cable, gearbox mount and tailshaft. Depending which gearbox you bought, and what you originally had, you may need to cut a new hole in your transmission tunnel to suit the shifter position. There are 4 shifter positions (that I know of) available for the W5x.

    Ok, now the hard parts.

    Hard bit 1: gearbox xmember mounting to body.
    The gearbox xmember bolts to the body using 2 bolts. When you put a W5x in, the xmember will move rearwards such that the front holes of the xmember will line up with the rear holes in the body. If you are lucky (ie have an RA40), then there will be a third set of holes in the body for your pleasure. If you are unlucky (ie have an RA23), then you will only have 2 holes in the body. There are a few ways of solving this, I will post up possible solutions at a later time, however there are also methods already available on the intawebs if you search.

    This is what I did for my temporary one. Need to do a tidier version, however it works.


    Hard bit 2: block dowels.
    The 18Rs had 2 dowels which go around the lower block to bellhousing bolts (they are hollow dowels). The later blocks did not have these, as such the bellhousing of the W5x does not have provision for them. This can be rectified by using a die grinder (or milling equipment or big fuck off drill bit if you have them available) and partially reaming the holes in the bellhousing out to allow fitment of the dowels. I will have a look when I get home, but I would hazard a guess you can also cut the dowels flush with the back of the block.

    Once you have all that sorted... it's done!! Really is a simple conversion, only a few minor points to watch out for. As mentioned, I will add to this with photos and diagrams at a later stage, just wanted to get the main info out first.
    Did u find any other solutions?

  3. #3
    Forum Member Grease Monkey
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    Default Re: W5x onto 18R

    Also just to add with the X member mounting points. I went from a W40 to a W50 and didn't have this issue, but when i went to W58 i did have the issue. I just drilled some new holes and put a nut and bolt through. I could reach a finger or two into the gap given in the rail bit where the gearbox mounts to put a nut on. I also had to cut more floor out for a new shifter position

    Just another thing you may know about, i went from an 18r with a W50, to a 18RG with a w58. The slave cylinder rod doesnt fit through the clutch fork though. Is there 2 different slave cylinders with different size rods?

  4. #4
    My Wife says I have Too Much Toyota o_man_ra23's Avatar
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    Default Re: W5x onto 18R

    Quote Originally Posted by o_man_ra23 View Post
    A new slave cylinder is also in order. Get the one to suit the RT142, again there is a difference with the early Wx0 versions (which were adjustable, but not suitable).
    RTRona, your final point was clarified/answered in the original post. Yes there are 2 types of slave cyl, the early W40/50 was adjustable and went through the fork, the later one was fixed with a mushroom head that didn't go through the fork.

    Your query regarding the mounting holes, yes I did find other ways using a google search (as eluded to in the bit you highlighted red), however I am yet to post them up as I have had a far more pressing matter to attend to - being the paintwork. Your method is one possibility, though my vehicle didn't have rails long enough to do so, another is to weld a piece in, which is detailed on another forum/personal site from somebody I believe in America.

    Something I would like to add is that I am looking at the possibility of using an Isuzu/Honda speed sender to allow me to use the nice electronic speedo I purchased. When I go ahead and work out if it fits, I will let you all know what models it suits etc.
    Cheers, Owen
    1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
    Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
    Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.

  5. #5
    Junior Member Backyard Mechanic
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    Default Re: W5x onto 18R

    Quote Originally Posted by o_man_ra23 View Post
    Something I would like to add is that I am looking at the possibility of using an Isuzu/Honda speed sender to allow me to use the nice electronic speedo I purchased. When I go ahead and work out if it fits, I will let you all know what models it suits etc.
    i think mx83 cressida had a screw on sender that goes onto the cable sender
    will look tomorrow - might even have one
    neil
    2009 aurion
    Purple 2000 Hilux - 1UZ

    assembly is just the opposite of disassembly - just you swear in different spots!

  6. #6
    My Wife says I have Too Much Toyota o_man_ra23's Avatar
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    Default Re: W5x onto 18R

    Yeah, they are the same as the Landcruiser unit, and retail at over $200 new. The Isuzu unit can be had for less than $50 new.
    Cheers, Owen
    1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
    Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
    Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.

  7. #7
    Forum Member 1st year Apprentice
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    Default Re: W5x onto 18R

    quick question about bolting up the w58 to 18rg, the two side bolts don’t seem to tighten fully, it leaves a gap of about 2-3mm. any ideas?

  8. #8
    My Wife says I have Too Much Toyota o_man_ra23's Avatar
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    Default Re: W5x onto 18R

    Have you checked the dowels? If you haven't reamed deep enough for them, they may hold it out. Failing that, check your clutch is lined up. Also, you shouldn't do any of the bolts up fully until it is all coming in together. Undo your top bolts a bit, put the box in gear, rock the output shaft while wiggling the box around and pushing it toward the motor, and see if you can get it to jump into place. This has worked for me many times (including getting the rebuilt W58 onto my latest 18R-GTE). Ideally the motor and box are mated prior to installing in the car, but this isn't always possible, so sometimes you have to do it on a jack. Difficult, but not impossible.
    Cheers, Owen
    1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
    Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
    Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.

  9. #9
    Forum Member 1st year Apprentice
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    Default Re: W5x onto 18R

    yep, u are spot on, it was the dowels, thanks a million.

  10. #10
    sus-023 Backyard Mechanic Slidin23's Avatar
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    Default Re: W5x onto 18R

    anyone done this and found their speedo is wayyyyy out? i have a rt142 corona 5 speed... is that the issue? do i need a ra65 speedo drive as they are 4.11 ratio rear?

    cheers jake

  11. #11
    My Wife says I have Too Much Toyota o_man_ra23's Avatar
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    Default Re: W5x onto 18R

    Yes, the speedo was out for me. I have put an electronic speedo in using a slightly modified drive from a 2003 Holden Rodeo, so that solved my problem.
    Cheers, Owen
    1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
    Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
    Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.

  12. #12
    sus-023 Backyard Mechanic Slidin23's Avatar
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    Default Re: W5x onto 18R

    i have an electronic sender from a w58 jza80 box... i wonder if i can use that drive and make my speedo electronic..

    any pics on how you did yours?

  13. #13
    My Wife says I have Too Much Toyota o_man_ra23's Avatar
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    Default Re: W5x onto 18R

    Umm... I welded an extension onto the pin in the centre and recreated the centre nib... then screwed the assembly onto the factory speedo drive unit and connected the speedo electrically to it... So yeah, just make the centre pin longer and screw her on.

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VAUXHALL-...UAAMXQlgtSrjod

    That's the unit in question.
    Cheers, Owen
    1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
    Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
    Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.

  14. #14
    My Wife says I have Too Much Toyota o_man_ra23's Avatar
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    Default Re: W5x onto 18R

    This looks like it might also fit:

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VSS-Vehic...cAAOSwo6lWQqmC
    Cheers, Owen
    1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
    Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
    Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.

  15. #15
    MR 18RG Chief Engine Builder The Witzl's Avatar
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    Default Re: W5x onto 18R

    Having done this conversion twice now.... i might be able to add something.

    Regarding the issue of the dowels in the 18R block being too big to fit into the holes in the 22R-W55 bellhousing..... yes that is correct.
    HOWEVER!!!!
    The first time time i did this conversion, I think i used a 21RC bellhousing, and it bolted straight up to the 18R.
    Unless someone before me had already drilled them out? It was 2007 so i cant remember now.

    I ended up using an RT142 slave cylinder and clutch fork, along with RT142 release bearing.
    I also used a speedo drive + drive gear from an RA60 celica, which had a 4.11:1 ratio, so speedo worked properly..... but on the 2nd conversion i'm going electronic speedo.
    ...... butt scratcher?!


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