2tgeu engine number

[ToyTA22]

Hi. I have looked through other threads looking for how to identify between a 2tg or a later 2tgeu cylinder block but unable to clarify.
What i'm looking for is 2tg started at engine number 2T 80------- 2tgeu started at number 2T --------.
Can anyone help with this information.

Regards ToyTA22

[vanman]

http://lwsd.us/stepho/eng2t.htm has this quote talking about how to tell 2T/2TG blocks apart by engine number : ”Typically a 2T/2T-B engine number would be 0094490 while a 2T-G would be 8038332.” - First digit of engine number being the relevant point.... unconfirmed from what I can see and also no mention of 2TG/2TGEU differences...

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=16687 post 17 includes a quote (talking about head design) "2T-G Engine modifications as per April 1973 were from Engine Number 2T-8038333" The engine number quoted here supports the first digit argument from the post above. This post was originally quoted from the old forums here: http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_496420

From the above links I would suggest that a post-1973 2TG motor would have a 2T block with an engine number starting with 8 with a later number than 2T-8038333... based on unconfirmed information... <EDIT see post 4 below - seems to be incorrect information>

Wikipedia suggest that the 2TGEU was from 1978 onwards, and that 3T was 1977 onwards... a lot of sites I have seen indicate that "late" 2TG variants used the 3T block design, so the engine number bit above might not help, considering the 4 year gap...

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/arc...php/t-208.html quotes September_Squall as posting:

Late model 2T-G blocks are the same casting as 3T blocks, just stamped with an engine number (2T#### or 3T####) to correspond with the internals (1588CC or 1770CC).

Late block is p/n 11411-28010 (possibly others also).
Early block is p/n 11411-26012 (possibly others also).

suggests the difference could be told from the part number cast into the block itself near the starter motor... neither of my 2T engines have either of these casting numbers, but it might only relate to 2TG's and 3T's - Have not found any confirming information relating to these casting/part numbers though

I have yet to see anything that indicates the engine numbers when 2TGEU's started, and Wikipedia also has 2TC's being used to at least 1979, so I would suggest that looking into the block casting/part number might be just as valid as trying to research engine numbers... from what I can tell you would be looking for a 2T block with the late casting number 11411-28010 and 8 as the first digit of the engine number - would supposedly get you a 'late' 2TG which would hopefully be a 2TGEU...

I'd love to see more input on this myself, as I'm still researching how to tell from sight a late/early block to find a 2T block can swallow a 3T crank without 'clearancing', which I'd rather avoid...

Hope this helps...

Cheers
Vanman

[ToyTA22]

Thanks vanman
That at least gives me a starting point. I want to do what you said i.e 3t crank in 2t style block without grinding crankcase.

Regards ToyTA22

[vanman]

OK, engine number information above seems to be off the mark - engine marketed as a 2TGEU on ebay shows as engine number 2T 8026507 - earlier than the number indicated above as the 1973 split... trying to find out casting number on the block from seller to see what can be found out from there...

EDIT <Seller has just emailed me to confirm cast no. 11411-26010 on the block of his 2TGEU, so that at least gives a fairly definite clue as to the cast number to look out for...>

Cheers
Vanman

[WDE_BDY]

Why not just get a 3T block? Since you will need the crank anyway its probably just as easy to start there rather than hope you can find the right 2T block.

Callum

[vanman]

I've previously been knocked back for car insurance, and also RACQ roadside assistance membership for having a registered, but 'modified' KE30 Corolla - with a bolt in replacement 5K motor... then again that was when I was less than 21 years old...

stroking a 2T with the 3T crank keeps the engine bay looking as it should for anyone who gets that pedantic about it... which an insurance company usually does when they deny an insurance claim because of the 'modification'...

Cheers
Vanman