2 4AGZE's from 2 1988 AW11 SC, same but different?

[worldwalker]

Hi,
I've finally gotten around to ripping out my old 4AGZE to replace with the rebuilt one I just bought. They're both big ports from '88 AW11s; the original was an auto and the new is a manual. The new one has had some minor modifications and changes to plumbing (routing as far as I can tell is still the same as factory) as well as a larger crank pulley. The few things I've noticed, so far, which are not identical (as one would assume they would be), one of the SCers is printed SC12 the other has nothing, the auto has mostly grey wire connectors (including grey ECU loom connectors) and the manual has fluoro yellow for the same connectors.

All the nuts and bolts of the engines look the same and I was hoping to just lift across the loom from the current engine onto the new, just blanking off the ETC side of things, but it looks like this may not be possible.

I've got a lot of other work to get done along the way and I'd hate to bolt it all up only to have to rip it all out when I could resolve the problems now.

Also if anyone can point me in the direction of a link to 4A specs between engines, I've been getting conflicting info and I'd like to clarify which is which. We have a red top with non interference pistons and what we believed was a blue top with interference pistons. We're trying to mate up the best of everything to build one running NA 4AGE but would like to know the bits and pieces that will achieve the best results.

Nick

PS I bought Phildo's back yard hence all the 4a's.

[dnegative]

Just swap engines looms, if things dont match or fit just keep swapping till everything is sweet.

All 4AGE's are non interference

[trdee]

From what I've read, BT 20vs are actually interference engines, every other variant is definitely non-interference though

If both engines are legit AW11 4AGZE engines then they should be identical. Everything should be 100% identical. Maybe different colour plugs or whatever, but they should all interchange with no hassles... unless one of the 4AGZE's is actually an engine swap out of an S/C corolla or something...

4A info can be found in the link below. Read it all
http://forum.twincam.org.au/topic/25...-4ag-info-hub/

[oldeskewltoy]

4A info can be found in the link below. Read it all
http://forum.twincam.org.au/topic/25...-4ag-info-hub/

some of the info in this is wrong......

rod mass - the silvertop rod is lighter then the earlier 42/20 rod used in the 88-92 engines
big port compression(Singapore, and some areas of Europe) 10 to 1, not included

[allencr]

Unless they've never had any major work done on them in 24 years and they have nearly consecutive VIN, I wouldn't count on any wiring shit being the same or being from the same sub-contractor between auto & stick, except for the colors on the wires themselves.

[trdee]

i missed the part where one was manual and the other was auto. the auto one has extra connectors and whatnot for the auto trans, but all the sensors on the engine itself should be interchangable if they are both AW11 GZEs. coolant temp, CAS, injector plugs, AFM etc etc all should be the same

OST; do you have anything documented to back your claims up? if you do, then I'll add them to the guide (that's what it's there for after all)

[worldwalker]

After all that I still haven't switched the wiring over. Once I sort out the CV boots (what were toyota thinking with the crazy CV joint!) I should be able to see how well all the wiring converts and plug and play. Am I right in thinking the Auto ECU shouldn't have any issues with the Manual conversion? Everything I read indicates it'll have no problems as the A/T portion is handled separately?

[dnegative]

Nah it will be sweet, you dont need to swap looms for a manual conversion anyway. Wire up the reverse lights, dodgy the neutral start switch and your good to go.

[maj]

If you have the complete manual loom, i'd imagine it should be plug and play for a manual conversion. Otherwise as dneg mentioned you should be able to use the auto loom.

Also for the love of all that is adub, do not throw away any of your auto parts once the conversion is complete. PM me with what parts you have and if I can't take any off your hands, I know of quite a few other auto GZE owners who might.

[worldwalker]

I'm not sure if this should stay with this thread or the one I've just revived... Anyway its been three weeks of not dealing with the loom, now I've finished procrastinating I have to deal with it. There's a little more confusion as I also have to do the ABV mod due to the larger crank pulley. That in and of itself is fine but the previous owner (a member of the forum I'm told, came from a track MR2 that was wrecked a few years ago) has done some very strange vacuum modification that I can't work out. To add confusion to this he's modified the relays to suit but I have no idea where he had it plumbed; or wired as they're all chopped. From what I understand it was running a stock ECU.

I've attached some photos for fun.

I'm assuming these valves are not from or required on a GZE? They're not on the engine out of my car or on the spare thermostat housing I have.


Edit: Yeah the lower port on the original engine runs to the cruise control unit. The upper port runs to the ABV, obviously is not required on this engine.


How is this manageable? I would have thought the FPR needed metered air and not just direct manifold pressure?


I have no idea what this plumbing is meant to achieve. Can anyone shed some light on it? I can't pick where it comes or goes?




Hopefully someone knows who owned this engine or at least what he was up to.

I think in the end I will just switch the whole auto loom over to the manual engine and do the ABV mod from scratch rather than trying to adapt his work to the car. It also has an additional 7 wires running to the cabin which don't seem to relate directly to the auto trans, though I can't track them all down.

Thanks again,

nick

[trdee]

the two sensors in the first pic look like aftermarket add-ons, they dont look like factory stuff to me anyway

manifold reference is correct for the FPR. it doesnt need metred air, it just needs to know manifold pressure

the other shit i am not sure of

[worldwalker]

For what its worth, all the coolent temp sensors were different. Also those two coolent temp valves look similar to one from a 4AGE though the 4AGE and GZE have different thermostat housings and the GE only has one of those valves. The temp sensors were all the same as the GE and the loom looked untouched in those sections. The only difference, other than being auto, is that it appears the original engine was actually an 89 not an 88 (late run 88, everything I've come across is the same as 89).

I'm sure the car would have run on the manual loom but it was easier to switch the looms over and change the sensors to match.

Nick