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Thread: Clutch wont bleed????

  1. #1
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia wasfishing's Avatar
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    Default Clutch wont bleed????

    tried to bleed the clutch on my aw11 mr2 tonite and it just wont work, when u press on the clutch pedal it goes straight to the floor and stays there until u pull it back up by hand. I originally thought this mighta been a problem with the slave cyclinder so i pulled it off but it seems to be workin fine, only other problem i could think is the cylinder mounted on the gearbox (sorry dunno correct term) might be seized up as its been sitting off the car for a while, does this sound likly?

    or is this kinda normal and for sum reason its just not workin for me?


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    MISTR2 - 1988 AW11 MR2 - 4agze soon to be turbo

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  2. #2
    Not trying to be a Carport Converter senn's Avatar
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    Default Re: Clutch wont bleed????

    iirc, you need to pull it back out (make sure u have a hose going into fresh fluid tho, so you don't get air bubbles) It's something like this...I was doing the nipple on mine, had a mate on the pedal, so i can't quite remember what i had to ask him to do..it's different to doing the brakes tho..

    How much air is in the lines? the slave is the one mounted on the gearbox, the master is the one attached to the pedal with the reservoir. Make sure the bleed nipple is clear of blockages too. Thats all i can think of unless your slave is toast..
    Last edited by senn; 18-11-2009 at 12:36 AM.
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    R.I.P. Pentamax Chief Engine Builder Adsport's Avatar
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    Default Re: Clutch wont bleed????

    firstly you are thinking of the clutch slave cylinder, with the master cylinder being the main one with the reservoir at the pedal end.

    sometimes i find if i get into this situation i close the bleed nipple on the slave and pump the pedal a heap of times. doing this pressurises the air thats in the system and when you open the bleed nipple on the slave it kind of burps it and often pulls fluid out with the air (like a venturi effect). if you get a whiff of air coming out when you crack the nipple open that means its working, doing it again and over can help to some extent.

    the other way i have found is just to crack open the bleed nipple a full turn or a little bit more and put a bit of silicone hose onto the end of it and leave it sit and just hope. this has actually worked a few times and gravity bleeding is actually a reliable way to bleed hydraulic systems if you get it right (takes practice).


    i have also rigged up vacum bleeders ghetto style and hook them up to the motor, where a vacum line runs to a large canaster which connects to the bleed nipple . warning DONT do this unless you know what you are doing!!! haha

    you can also make a one man bleeding reservoir from a drink container and some vacum hose and a bit of wire. i did this the other day while helping a friend and while it did work and she was completely impressed and thought i was better than macguyver it still didnt get me any play so be wary.
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  4. #4
    Not trying to be a Carport Converter senn's Avatar
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    Default Re: Clutch wont bleed????

    i usually do it with clear hose similar to the bleedcock (don't use the coolant bleed hoses for gods sake) and a glass or plastic jar. generally it's a 2 person job to bleed brakes/clutch doing it this way, as you need one person on the pedal, the other opening and closing the nipple. (and checking reservoir levels, and jar level.)
    "Nice Capri Mate!" yeah get bent......
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  5. #5
    Junior Member Backyard Mechanic
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    Default Re: Clutch wont bleed????

    does the master cyl on the firewall have a remote bottle like out of the brake master bottle?
    i have had problems where the fluid aeriates if you work the pedal to much but you are still getting good fluid flow out of the bleed nipple.
    the fix for this is to go and a cold rum and let it rest overnight to settle.
    just a thought
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    R.I.P. Pentamax Chief Engine Builder Adsport's Avatar
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    Default Re: Clutch wont bleed????

    Quote Originally Posted by senn View Post
    i usually do it with clear hose similar to the bleedcock (don't use the coolant bleed hoses for gods sake) and a glass or plastic jar. generally it's a 2 person job to bleed brakes/clutch doing it this way, as you need one person on the pedal, the other opening and closing the nipple. (and checking reservoir levels, and jar level.)

    if you drill a small hole through either end of a juice container and shove silicone hose through it then hang it upside down you have a one man bleeding reservoir. when you pump the fluid out it fills up from the bottom and cant suck air through. and if you have an assistant its really easy to see bubbles .
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  7. #7
    busy adding lightness Too Much Toyota MR22ZZ's Avatar
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    Default Re: Clutch wont bleed????

    I just use one of the 1 man bleeders with the check valve in them and pump the pedal a head of times (about 20 or so for the AW since the clutch line is pretty long) until the fluid comes out. Then I let is sit for a while (about an hour) for any air bubbles to come to the surface and do a quick bleed again.
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    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia
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    Default Re: Clutch wont bleed????

    Quote Originally Posted by wasfishing View Post
    ...when u press on the clutch pedal it goes straight to the floor and stays there until u pull it back up by hand.
    The clutch MC has an internal spring and the pedal itself has a return spring, so there are 2 reasons why that should never happen. Is the pedal seizing on its shaft or is the piston stuck in the bore?
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  9. #9
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia wasfishing's Avatar
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    Default Re: Clutch wont bleed????

    managed to get it bled up last nite, ended up removing the bleed nipple and forcing fluid through the lines then putting it back in and bleeding it properly, all good now
    MISTR2 - 1988 AW11 MR2 - 4agze soon to be turbo

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  10. #10
    Junior Member Backyard Mechanic
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    Default Re: Clutch wont bleed????

    A very good way to bleed systems that have been depleted of all fluid is to locate the nearest wheel brake to the clutch slave.

    Bleed the brake first to remove the old fluid.

    Run a length of clean tube from the brake nipple to the clutch slave nipple.

    Pump the brake pedal and force the fluid up until the clutch reservior is full (this pushes the bubbles up & out as the bubbles want to go to the top).

    If you have a combined brake & clutch reservior you don't have to do anything as it pumps in a circle. Just make sure clean fluid is in the reservoir first.

  11. #11
    Underpowered Backyard Mechanic Moppitt's Avatar
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    Default Re: Clutch wont bleed????

    Quote Originally Posted by petergoudie View Post
    A very good way to bleed systems that have been depleted of all fluid is to locate the nearest wheel brake to the clutch slave.

    Bleed the brake first to remove the old fluid.

    Run a length of clean tube from the brake nipple to the clutch slave nipple.

    Pump the brake pedal and force the fluid up until the clutch reservior is full (this pushes the bubbles up & out as the bubbles want to go to the top).

    If you have a combined brake & clutch reservior you don't have to do anything as it pumps in a circle. Just make sure clean fluid is in the reservoir first.
    *2. That is what I've done when everything else fails. Particularly useful when, as peter said, the M/C runs out of fluid or when the second year apprentice forgets to bench bleed a new M/C

    Oh, and I've seen enough cars whose pedals will stay on the floor if theres no fluid in the system that its not an immediate concern. It has to do with the placement and style of the spring on the pedal being such that it acts to push the pedal up for most of the travel but once past a certain point, helps to push the pedal down. I imagine its so that it makes the pedal lighter and easier to hold on the floor while still acting to give more weight to the pedal where firmness is a virtue... or something like that.

    I will withhold further comment till someone with more adub knowledge chimes in though.
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