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Thread: Shrike the 4wd ae111 build log

  1. #16
    Junior Member Grease Monkey
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    Default Re: Shrike the 4wd ae111 build log

    Yeah good point on the handbrake am going to get the new brakes in and bleed the lines to check if the lengths ok

  2. #17
    I definitely ain't a Chief Engine Builder wagonist's Avatar
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    Default Re: Shrike the 4wd ae111 build log

    What upgrade are you planning for the brakes?
    I'm currently fitting ST205 brakes onto my Caldina. The ST205 rear rotor fits directly onto my original handbrake with no mods, and if you get the brake balance right, you prob won't need to upgrade the rears from what you've got now anyway.
    Your car is a lot lighter than mine.

  3. #18
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    Default Re: Shrike the 4wd ae111 build log

    I'm getting some aftermarket slotted rotors and a set of 2pot brembos from a subie and running 4pot at the front.

    Should hopefully stop the car nice and quick

  4. #19
    Car Butcher Carport Converter WDE_BDY's Avatar
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    Default Re: Shrike the 4wd ae111 build log

    Hydro handbrake is legal to fit in NZ but not as the only park brake. You have to retain the cable setup as hydraulics can't hold pressure indefinitely. As long as you have dual circuit brakes an emergency brake as such is not required, the park brake can be run off the driveshaft etc.

    Callum

  5. #20
    Spirited Backyard Mechanic Casey-G's Avatar
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    Default Re: Shrike the 4wd ae111 build log

    have any idea how much it'll weigh compared to a GT4 when its finished?

    very interesting build, hope it goes along smoothly with minimal headaches

  6. #21
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    Default Re: Shrike the 4wd ae111 build log

    I'm hoping for about a ton not sure if that will be gross or net yet though. It was 900kg before I pulled everything about so I'd be happy if its under 1200kg.

    Latest issue is I had to swap the gt4 ball joints for levin ones to work on the macpherson suspension which I just put in to test fit ready for my coilovers which should be in before next month.

    My car was superstrut from stock and had good suspension in already but I can't reuse it alittle bit annoyed but never mind.

    Anyone after rear trd shocks or s/s ohlins for the front let me know mine are for sale

  7. #22
    I definitely ain't a Chief Engine Builder wagonist's Avatar
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    Default Re: Shrike the 4wd ae111 build log

    Why can't you keep the Levin suspension?
    Ok, you'll prob have to modify (or at least mix & match) the driveshafts.

    With the rear brakes, remember that you need to find a rotor that will fit over your drum handbrake. This most likely means staying Toyota.
    The ST205 rear rotors are 315mm dia & 15mm (?) thick & fit straight on.
    Should be ok to work out some kind of adaptor plate for the rear calipers off something else.

  8. #23
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    Default Re: Shrike the 4wd ae111 build log

    I can't use my levin suspension as mines superstrut and the st185 hubs are macpherson

  9. #24
    I definitely ain't a Chief Engine Builder wagonist's Avatar
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    Default Re: Shrike the 4wd ae111 build log

    Reasons why you can't use the AE111 hubs/steering knuckles?

    I know it'll be 4 stud & 5 stud, but maybe the hubs can be pressed out & swapped?
    Or an appropriate front wheel bearing that allows the hubs & the steering knuckles to be used together.

  10. #25
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    Default Re: Shrike the 4wd ae111 build log

    Good point however I have already brought some cusco coilovers that are better then what I have atm so will just run them.

    also I have no abs plug on my hubs so will be removing that as well

  11. #26
    I definitely ain't a Chief Engine Builder wagonist's Avatar
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    Default Re: Shrike the 4wd ae111 build log

    Which hubs? You need to make sure people know what you're talking about as you've got 2 differnet types there.

    Also, what are you refering to as hubs?

    I'm assuming your Levin already has ABS.
    Pity you didn't start with Caldina ST215 gear.
    They've all got ABS (because that's what runs the speedo) & are interchangable with the ST185 stuff.

    Considering the money you're spending on this, replacing the ST185 front & rear hubs & driveshafts (that tone wheel is on the shaft) with ST215 Dina stuff shouldn't be too hard with the amount of them in wreckers yard over there.
    Last edited by wagonist; 16-03-2010 at 04:15 PM.

  12. #27
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    Default Re: Shrike the 4wd ae111 build log

    I was trying to get st205 or 215 but I got a good deal on the st185 gear. Right now I'm going to get the car going etc and then organize if I want to keep abs or not as well as keeping an eye out for parts.

    I am planning on running big brakes so abs may not be needed and I can get it certed without.

  13. #28
    I definitely ain't a Chief Engine Builder wagonist's Avatar
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    Default Re: Shrike the 4wd ae111 build log

    For the ST215, you need to remember that it's not just the turbos that have that chassis designation.
    ie, you can get a 3S-FE auto AWD Caldina & it's still called an ST215.
    So the options for just hubs & driveshafts are a lot more open (and may be cheaper because they're off a less desirable model too)

  14. #29
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    Default Re: Shrike the 4wd ae111 build log

    well I just had a look my ae111 hub and my st185 hub and it seems that the st185 does have the mount just without the hole to plug it into on the front so I drill that out and get myself some gt4 abs cvs and it should hopefully work. Will ring toyota tomorrow about cvs also the rear abs sensor on my ae111 reads info off I think its the bearing so if I drill a hole in the top of my hub and fit it in there it may work.

    If it doesn't then I can buy new hubs

  15. #30
    I definitely ain't a Chief Engine Builder wagonist's Avatar
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    Default Re: Shrike the 4wd ae111 build log

    Some ST185s did come with ABS.
    I think you'll find it's more work than just drilling a hole.
    It needs to be properly aligned with the tone wheel, then it needs a flat piece for the outer part of the sensor to sit against, then it also needs a hole drilled & tapped for the retaining bolt.
    By the time you do all that, you'd prob be cheaper off getting replacement 2nd hand ones.

    You'll also find the rear end is completely different.
    The rear suspension of my last FWD Dina vs the current AWD one (the same setup despite different body shells) are different.

    I replaced the rear stub axles on the FWD Dina with ST184 versions when I upgraded to disk brakes (it had drums). The tone wheel was a solid disc which pressed into the end of the stub axle vs sitting on the outside of the CV.

    Don't want to discourage you by any means, just pointing out some of the pitfalls.
    I want to see this machine come to fruition in its full glory.

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