Would a nylock nut be suitable there?
I recently replaced the tierod ends on my MX83 front suspension, and came across this little snag:
At full attachement the castellated nut is way below the securing point.
The tierod ends were brand new MX83 items from TRW.
Im not going to even bother trying to redrill a hole because it will be hardened steel, and buggered if im going to waste drillbits doing it.
Not particularly keen on putting washers underneath, as i have to go through regency soon.
I tried using the old castellated nut, but not only was it a different thread, height wise the castellations came to the thread below the hole there.
Has anyone else had a similar issue? What solution did you use?
-Chris | Garage takai - Breaking cars since 1998
Sparky - AE86 IPRA Racer | RZN149 Hilux - Parts and Car Hauler
I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence
Would a nylock nut be suitable there?
Daily: Toyota '05 Rav4 Sport
Projects: Celica GT4 ST185 (5S-GTE), Celica RA28 Celica (1UZ-FE)
Previous: Corona RT104, Starlet GT Turbo
Classic Celica Club of South Australia
+1 for use of a nylock nut... if the tierod end is hit with a hammer on the flatside to compress the tapered end into the joint it will lock it so the shaft doesnt move and the nylock nut can be tightened
either that or it looks like you have enuf space to place a normal nut, and a nylock nut over the top as a "locknut" for the normal nut type of approach
Ive already clamped the tierod ends down into the taper there in that pic with that castellated nut.
Only worry with nylocs is whether ill get knocked back on it when i go over the pits.
-Chris | Garage takai - Breaking cars since 1998
Sparky - AE86 IPRA Racer | RZN149 Hilux - Parts and Car Hauler
I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence
Hard to fathom why they would have not exactly copied the original specs, have you asked them? there may be a reason, maybe that end fits more than 1 application? I would take them back personally to save a potential knockback at Regency, from what i gather they are right pricks to deal with so why take a chance.
locknut ftw.
maybe another castellated one. looks like the height will be right to use a split pin then and i dont see how u could get knocked back for it.
u could hit trw up for another pair of nuts if what they supplied isnt right for the advertised application.....
i replaced the tie rod ends in my ra65 with TRW parts, and i was actually given nylock nuts. there is no hole through the threaded shaft to even use a castle nut/pin. i was a bit dubious to begin with, but i've had no issues running like this for the past 9 months or so.
Daily Driver: Red Ae93 Project: My TA22 - now with 3s-gteD is for Disco, E is for Dancing
I'm only concerned with the tapers matching and the boot not getting torn open. That cotter pin does Fuck all.
Threadlock, ding a thread, bend the cotter pin down, nyloc nut, double/jam nut, put a wrench on to check it out once a dayweekmonthyear.
The steel isn't so hard that it can't be hacksawed off or drilled, as anyone that has ever F'd up the threads when removing one knows that they've wished that it wasn't so soft. I'd cut it down & use a nylock, if it's necessary to get by these Rego pricks.
Last edited by allencr; 16-10-2009 at 06:42 PM.
'I've scrapped better.' John stated when asked about the car by the guy with the silver tipped cowboy boots!
Yeah, im not overly concerned with it apart from the fact that i have to go for a registration inspection soon.
More concerned about what they will think.
-Chris | Garage takai - Breaking cars since 1998
Sparky - AE86 IPRA Racer | RZN149 Hilux - Parts and Car Hauler
I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence
lock nut for the massive lose.
double check you've got the right part, or drill and pin the one you got.
no way would u pass a reg check with a normal nut or even a lock nut.
1983 Toyota Celica Supra
chris - go to a bolt shop and get a 'taller' castellated nut ?
i bought a pair of tie rod ends for my vs suspension conversion in my VL (don't ask) and they came with nyloc nuts.
Seconded Grega
Get the thread pitch and diameter and go to bolt shop and ask for castellated nut. A normal nut of the right thread should be much longer then the one in your photo and hence split pin holes should line up.
iu did the same thing about a year ago. i think i read the manual and it said that the nut shouldnt be done up that tight anyway, to give the joint room to move..?
ill have a look at my car when i get home but im pretty sure that was the problem.
otherwise it looks like you have room for another nut on top........
MX83 2JZ-GTE!!
#YOLO.
Yeah, i will either run a longer castellated nut, or a double nut setup, but i was really wondering if anyone else had the same issue, as TRW seem to be a fairly major player in the steering game.
-Chris | Garage takai - Breaking cars since 1998
Sparky - AE86 IPRA Racer | RZN149 Hilux - Parts and Car Hauler
I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence
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