How to connect switches to switched pinouts on a toyota ECU?

**2JZR31** · 29-03-2006, 04:14 PM

Originally Posted by SL666

you do have the solenoid wires hooked up though yeah? and the selector wires are all there?

No I don't have anything hooked up to my gear leaver besides the mechanical rod. How do these solenoids hook up?

**2JZR31** · 30-03-2006, 01:25 AM

you do have the solenoid wires hooked up though yeah? and the selector wires are all there?

Are you talking about wires connected to the trans loom or seperate ones I should have hooked up?

**SL666** · 30-03-2006, 07:12 AM

all in the trans loom...

there should be a big bunch where the selector goes into the box 10 or so i think.. then there should be another plug on the rear other side... this will either have 3-4 pins on a plug or loose wires or a big 6-7 pin style plug.. (varies greatly between boxes)

**2JZR31** · 30-03-2006, 11:59 AM

Originally Posted by CrUZida

In my swap (1991 1UZ) the Overdrive switch EARTHs the ECU pin.
But the PWR ECT switch give the ecu +12V.

ECU has built-in resistors.

http://www.conceptual.net.au/~peewee...3_wiring_2.gif

Were there any other electrical inputs you had to hook up to your shift leaver other than the OD and POWER ECT? Are there any extra switches on the leaver that determine shift position etc?

**SL666** · 30-03-2006, 12:12 PM

if its the same as the soarer, it should all be done on the box..

**2JZR31** · 30-03-2006, 01:43 PM

I had a better look those 2 solenoids are already wired in the other loom plug. But I just found the PWR ECT shift pinout in some pinouts I got from a supra (I hope its cose enough to the Aristo). The thing is people on the supra board reckon they don't have a power button. The reckon all there is, is an overdrive button and some other button called MANU, which basically just manualises the box a bit so it will never change on its own. If this is the case why the hell is there a PWR ECT pinout on my diagram...

Shit this is confusing.

**2JZR31** · 30-03-2006, 02:07 PM

I am going to trace out the wires from the neutral start switch, they are all plugged in, but as usual they may not be connected to the ECU which is what may be giving me my probs.

Also, is there a trick to getting the CHECK ENGINE light going? I just used a normal 12V bulb and connected it to the pinout with 12V feeding it on the other side. This light should turn on if I disconect the map sensor shouldn't it and if the engine stalls when the ignition os on right?

**2JZR31** · 31-03-2006, 01:22 AM

I got the check engine light going. If the ECU runs in limp mode the light comes on and stays on right? ATM is just comes on when I hit the boost cut.

**SL666** · 31-03-2006, 07:23 AM

you want to pull the ECU codes now.. definatly

i bet its going to tell you more than just one thing.. you will need to google up how do figure out what the codes are, and what pins on the diag plug to short..

the different names for the button could be just bad translation.. we had a bit of that on our 1j one.. the colours of the wires etc also change over the years of the same models..

**2JZR31** · 31-03-2006, 04:04 PM

I wired up the MANU buttion, but it does nothing. Which is not surprising at this stage.

I traced out all the wires from the inhibit/selector switch and NONE of them were connected to the ECU at all. I wired them using CrUZida's diagram on the previous page of this thread, IE 12+ to the pinouts on the ECU for R, 2, and L. After I done this I could manualy select gears proporly, well 1st and 2nd anyway. But reverse stopped working with it connected? WTF?

I disconected the 12+ feed and reverse worked again (IE reverted to how it was) but now I can still select 1st and 2nd. WTF WTF WTF WTF??