HSD coilover sleeve kits 45mm 48mm 51mm 55mm now available only $299

[mullett]

Depends on condition...$300 /pr if they're in good nick, no leaks, etc etc?

-RM.

[SilverRA23]

Should this discussion be clogging up Grant's thread? I mean its interesting, but not really selling his sleeves is it.

The sleeves are excellent by the way

[mullett]

I was thinking that before...cat_spew, drop a thread in the 'tech and conversions' and you'll get heaps of replies...

-RM.

[CAT_SPEW]

Yeh fair enough, not really the place for it I suppose. But I've got alot of helpful info so thanks
And those trd yellows are on ae86dc for anyone interested, I'll be more than likely buying a new set

- Sleeve kit should be here tommorow too so I can get things going.

[mullett]

Post up some pics I'll be putting a few up when I do my set (when I finally get home )

-RM.

[Major Clod]

How are people going welding these? Would a nice strong weld at the base of the sleeve be fine? I don't really want to run anything around the top incase I stuff up the start of my thread.

[SilverRA23]

I paid a professional to do it for $200 and got a great job done on top and bottom. Linden said that the price was probably the high end of things too. Pics are in my KE35 race car thread.

[1JZ-Rolla]

Yep, can just neatly TIG (or even MIG) the bottom of the sleeve to the strut body. Both are more than thick enough to penetrate nicely for a strong join.




I've got my Otomoto springs setup in the car now. To get the ride height where I want, the tender/helper springs have a lot of preload on them, almost enough to compress completely even with the strut at full droop:




Is it worth me removing the helper springs altogether in this case and just running the main spring on its own?

[takai]

Yeah, if you arnt getting much extra height out of the tenders and you can adjust out that height with the main spring height then drop out the tenders.

Also what spring rate are you running Phil? Would be good to get some baselines.

[GeneSPIDA]

My understanding with tender/helper springs is that they're there to keep the springs captive when the struts are at full drop, and are meant to compress completely with weight on them. So, they're not there to give you the extra height, they're there to stop the main spring flopping around at full extension. I'd leave them in unless your main springs are already impossible to move at full drop. Even if there's a little "gap" at full drop with your main springs, the tender/helpers are there to stop things moving around.

[1JZ-Rolla]

450lb (8kg) as pictured above. Previously ran KING branded 375lb (6.7kg) with no helper springs, at full suspension droop I just adjusted the lower spring perch up until it only just preloaded the spring to ensure it stayed captive, which coincidentally worked out to the correct static height for the car.

My reasoning for going with helper springs this time was that with less compression of the heavier 450lb main spring, i'd end up with a higher static height to keep them captive... but it doesn't seem to have made a large difference?

I could deal with the slightly higher static ride height, but am more concerned about losing more rebound travel. Is this important though?

Sorry if this is getting off topic Grant, seems relevant to coilover choices for others etc so hope it stays, but just let me know if you want it deleted & taken elsewhere.

Cheers
Phil

[EDIT] sorry GeneSPIDA, missed your reply before I posted. You're on the right track, as above, the fitment of the helpers was to keep the spring captive, without having to raise the height to compensate. Seems from the pics though that they are practically at full compression just to get the car to the same static height it had before their fitment though. So if anything, they assist in getting the vehicle LOW enough without losing captivity.

[takai]

My understanding with tender/helper springs is that they're there to keep the springs captive when the struts are at full drop, and are meant to compress completely with weight on them. So, they're not there to give you the extra height, they're there to stop the main spring flopping around at full extension. I'd leave them in unless your main springs are already impossible to move at full drop. Even if there's a little "gap" at full drop with your main springs, the tender/helpers are there to stop things moving around.

The height i meant was height of the overall spring package, with relation to staying captive. Not the ride height of the car.

[EDIT] sorry GeneSPIDA, missed your reply before I posted. You're on the right track, as above, the fitment of the helpers was to keep the spring captive, without having to raise the height to compensate. Seems from the pics though that they are practically at full compression just to get the car to the same static height it had before their fitment though. So if anything, they assist in getting the vehicle LOW enough without losing captivity.

Yes, thats what the tenders springs are for. They are so you can lower the main spring height (on the threaded sleeve) without having them not be captive. Given though that your tender spring is almost fully compresed at full droop, you can simply compensate for the tender spring by adjusting your main spring higher (looks like you have the adjustment to do that there). From what i can see your tender spring is basically entirely compressed and so the main spring would be captive anyway.

If your tender spring isnt fully compressed, or say within 5mm then i wouldnt remove them, they are doing their job.

Thanks also for your spring rates, just figuring out what to use on the Supra.

[mullett]

Shiny!



-RM

[chaRwie]

put some rust preventative on the sleeve before u put them on the car

mine have grown rust, but still twist, just looks ugly

[mullett]

What do you think? Inox? Or something more hardcore?

-RM