Mos owns all with this ...take his word for it ellz.
Nope - you need front sump.Originally Posted by ellz
I think all 1JZ looms place the ECU in the cabin. The IS200 factory ECU position is in the engine bay, so you need to move a bunch of IS200 cables to the cabin to suit a cabin ECU location.Originally Posted by ellz
There are different JZZ30 looms - the VVTi ones have different connectors. JZX90 looms have the same plugs as the VVTi engines. If you pick the right engine the two IS200 chassis plugs will plug into the ECU (might need repinning).
As others have said IS300 mounts are available. You may be better off making custom mounts to put the engine back. The 2JZ engine sits a fair bit forward in the IS300, so moving it back is not a bad thing, especially for a motorsports application.Originally Posted by ellz
The factory IS200 fans do not fit with the 2JZ - IS300 fans are thinner.
The JZA80 W58 factory insulator will bolt to a R154 and also fit the pattern on the IS200 crossmember - the only issue will be the distance - I *think* with the 6 cylinder the mount should drop straight into the correct position, but that will be a suck it and see. Whatthe?'s gearbox crossmember has been modified, but I'm not sure how much that's moved forward or back.Originally Posted by ellz
Not sure what you mean by that? The R154 is slip yoke, not flange, so no need for a tailshaft with a slip joint in it.Originally Posted by ellz
Enjoy the swap
Mos.
Admin, I.T., Founding Member, Toymods Car Club Inc.
2000 IS200 Sports Luxury 1UZ-FE VVTi, 1991 MX83 Grande 2JZ-GTE (sold)
Mos owns all with this ...take his word for it ellz.
JZX90 Lovin'
Wops i meeant to put front sump ive got a rear sump on the block already.
Its not a VVTi engine, ive been advised to use the Jzz30 loom as im using a simple greedy E manage and they sell plug and play for the jzz30 so will be easy when i go big single.
I'm not sure if i'll go custom engine mounts as if i play with them to much then im guessing a new gearbox mount will be needed or made.
The supra's have a sliding part somewhere along the proshaft (ive been advised) that i will need to mate that part to the rear part of the IS200 proshaft to allow forward and backward play. Is this accurate ???
Cheers for the help this is going to be a steep learning curve
Not sure how much help this is, but here is a reply that I got to similar questions, from someone who has done it. (My question was regarding the 1jzVVTi convo.)
Off the top of my head here are some of the issues:
ECU - you have to run 2 ECU's - the Lexus one has to stay to keep the car functioning, and another one to run the actual engine.
Engine Mounts - custom fabricate or use IS300 mounts - I made custom mounts to suit.
Gearbox mount - I used the IS200 one
Tailshaft - get the front half changed to suit gearbox - I used Toyota Landcruiser parts to suit my Getrag.
Diff - would love to change it but haven't found one yet. Needs taller ratio to make the turbo pull harder.
Fuel system - you will have to upgrade the in-tank pump and then run another fuel return line back to the tank as the 1JZ pressure regulator is on the engine and needs a return line. I have a Bosch 044 in the tank. Carfull in there as there is a small lift pump inside the tank to pull fuel from one side of the tank to the other.
Fuel gauge will be wacky and no one has solved that one. IS200 counts for fuel injector pulses and deducts that from the fuel level. Every 1/4 tank it checks against the twin sender units in the tank and adjusts it display so fuel gauge stays still and suddenly drops 1/4 tank at a time.
Sump - You need front sump engine and even then it needs a slight modifcation to clear
Air-con - I used a mixture of 1JZ parts welded to the IS200 hoses and it works fine
Intercooler - I had a custom unit made to suit but I guess the Chaser one may fit
Exhaust - custom unit - I have 3" dump pipe and high flow cat & muffler then split into 2 x 2 1/2" just before goes under back axle with 2 rear mufflers and tailpipes.
Suspension - had to upgrade to Koni's to get the balance right. Felt very front heavy but now has nice balance again.
Other than that it is well worth the conversion.
AE90 Silvertop - GONE; 2001 ST215W GT-T Manual - SOLD; EP82 Starlet GT - Sold
Now driving 20V Turbo 1.8 N-S FWD
Mine is just a stock one with some spacers to drop it down about 10mm.Originally Posted by The Last Streetfighter
All the after market diff ratios for these seem to be taller ratios to suit revvy atmo engines. I am keenly awaiting Mos's inverstigation into gear sets from other models that may fit into the case. A 3.9:1 ratio wouldbe very nice.Originally Posted by The Last Streetfighter
Originally Posted by The Last Streetfighter
There is no small pump to draw fuel across but a venturi system that uses the flow of your return fuel to draw fuel into the main tank.
I have used the stock venturi but until the car hits the dyno we wont know if it is going to cause a flow restriction and increase fuel pressure uncontrolably. I use twin walbros in tank so I suspect there will be significant flow returning to the tank. All of it will have to pass through the restrictive venturi.
stock manual IS200 is a 3.9 ratio. auto is 4.1.Originally Posted by Yojimbo
im still waiting for Mos to pull his apart so we can fgure out if a 3.7 F series ratio will go into the stock housing, by all accounts it should but untill i see it with my own eyes i won't say 100%
cheers
linden
Originally Posted by WHITCHY
Obviously , I havent looked into this very much. For some, reason i thought the manuals were 4.3.
TRD gear sets are 4.56 or something.
Not running any aircon as this is a race car so wont have any fans etc, to make life easier i think i'll rip the IS200 ecu out and get some other gauges and wire them in direct instead of trying to make the standard IS200 dials work as ive herd this can be a pain in the ass. Then i can rewire the lights up as thats only a few wires from front to back etc.
Again thanks for the info, i might look into different ratios depending on what its like on track so may need some info on the ratios later on next year.
You'll have to put the engine in and see what happens. The gearbox crossmember has a bit of play on it but not a lot.Originally Posted by ellz
The V160 (6speed Getrag) Supras have a split joint in the tailshaft because both the gearbox and diff are flange type. The R154 is a slip yoke output which is a sliding component so the tailshaft itself does not need to have a slip joint. I had a single piece tailshaft made for my W58 with the correct slip yoke and the correct flange pattern for the diff, with the correct length. Making up custom tailshafts is fairly common for conversions where the original tailfshaft doesn't suit.Originally Posted by ellz
It makes little difference what you're building - you still need fans for the radiator. How are you going to cool it when it's stationary?Originally Posted by ellz
That's probably not a silly thing to do. If you're keeping the power windows and central locking you'll either need to keep the body ECU or replace the electricals with something less complex.Originally Posted by ellz
My fuel gauge doesn't quite do what Graham's does - mine does move down linearly but occasionally the fuel low light will flash indicating a malfunction. I'm not sure what the crucial piece of wiring is, because I would've expected Graham's one to work more correctly than mine based on what we each have connected to the factory ECU.Originally Posted by The Last Streetfighter
Whatthe?'s factory ECU has the least connected to it, hence his fuel gauge jumps in quarters.
You may get lucky and find some sort of aftermarket fuel gauge that will work with the twin IS200 senders (they are wired in series, appearing as a single sender).
Yeah, Graham wants a 3.5 I think in my EPC search I did come across a 3.5 ratio in the F series, but I can't remember, and I'm too lazy to check notes and posts...Originally Posted by The Last Streetfighter
TRD is 4.556 IIRC. The Aus ones are 3.9 and 4.1 (as Linden said) according to parra Lexus EPC (correlates with those found at wreckers).Originally Posted by Yojimbo
The JDM Altezzas are 4.3 and 4.1 depending on variant. According to the EPC all JDM GXE10s are 4.3 regardless of auto/manual, all Auto SXE10s are 4.1 and manual SXE10s changed from 4.1 to 4.3 in May 01. This does not correlate with TRD information.
An Aus manual will give you 3.9. I have not come across an LSD at wreckers yet and I've been through a lot of diffs....Originally Posted by Yojimbo
I *thought* I had a 3.9, hence I wanted a taller diff, ie 3.7, but since I've found out that I have a 4.1 I'm of the opinion that the 3.9 will probably be a good compromise - 3.7 might mean I have to use gears Have to run the calcs and see.
There is an unused 4.1 gearset at a certain workshop but the owner of the workshop has to ask the owner of the gearset before he lets me borrow it. Hang tight.Originally Posted by The Real Roadrunner
Mos.
Admin, I.T., Founding Member, Toymods Car Club Inc.
2000 IS200 Sports Luxury 1UZ-FE VVTi, 1991 MX83 Grande 2JZ-GTE (sold)
Sorry i thought you meant fans inside the car, of course i'll need fans for the rads LoL.
There will be polycarb windows so no electrics there, no central locking it needs to be as light as possible so anything that isnt needed will be gone.
With the proshaft i need to get it made to the correct length with the correct connector to the output shaft of the gearbox ?
Some of the track i will be running at are big power tracks and top speed will be needed so will need to be able to get up to around 150 mph most probably more, so will need to look in to a suitable ratio if i start messing around with them.
Ok, phew .. I did say the IS200 fans don't fit with a 2JZ because the 2JZ is longer than a 1GOriginally Posted by ellz
Then you're better off ditching absolutely all of the electrics and starting from scratch.Originally Posted by ellz
There are two common sizes for toyota slipyokes.Originally Posted by ellz
The larger is the R154, A34*E auto.
The smaller is W58, J160 (IS200 manual), A43DE (IS200 auto), so you won't be able to reuse the IS200 slipyoke even if the shaft is the right length.
You could get the IS200 shaft changed to the large yoke and lengthened or shortened to suit but that means you're keeping your old, small uni joints. The cost of yoke and length change is not much less than building a one piece shaft as you only have to add the cost of a second uni and longer pipe - all the other work still has to be done - and you get essentially a new tailshaft with larger unis. To get a two piece tailshaft made up would essentially be double the cost of the single piece. It's really up to you how you do it.
I think you'll be fine.Originally Posted by ellz
7000 engine rpm with R154 0.753 5th is 9296 tailshaft rpm
which is 2267 axle rpm with 4.1 diff ratio
which is 267 km/h with factory IS200 wheels
or 255 km/h with 4.3 diff
Mos.
Admin, I.T., Founding Member, Toymods Car Club Inc.
2000 IS200 Sports Luxury 1UZ-FE VVTi, 1991 MX83 Grande 2JZ-GTE (sold)
Hi guys im just in the process of selling my old turbo kit on the IS200.
I've got a HKS BOV but i know people who have had problems with them, is there any recommended BOV/DV that works really well with the 1JZ when with the twins or with a big single ? Or should i just keep the HKS BOV ?
Also any recommended Radiators, not sure on sizing yet as havent measured how much room i have got. Seen a koyo one but there quite expensive.
Cheers Elliott
Well at last i have had time to get moving on the 1JZ conversion. Been working so much over the holidays i havent had anytime to get up to the garage (RB tuning) to start work.
Ross who owns RB tuning had already drained all oils and taken rad out so got the aircon rad out.
Got front bar off and inlet manifold (what a pig it has soooo many wires/pipes going either into it or connected to it)
After a big of wigglen we got the engine apart from the gearbox
Then jacked it up to get the gearbox out (which is pretty light and small after the bellhousing)
Took wire loom out, was going to try and not cut it but theres just to many wires going blooomin everywhere.
Managed to keep all the FCON wires together with all the sensors etc
Overal a good first day, working rest of the week so not going to get much more done, but hopefully next week after stuff is ordered and arrived and ive picked up the 1JZ work can really get going
Anyone got any IS300 engine mounts lying around
Hi guys need a little help. Just wondering how i will get the ABS from the IS200 to work with the 1JZ ecu etc, Does it have the outputs for it ? will it work ok ? Ive got a JZZ30 looms and ECU if that makes any difference.
Any help would be great
Cheers Elliott
Does the ABS need to work with the ECU?
Most cars run a separate ABS computer which is not really linked. Certainly ABS 15 years ago wasn't linked at all.
Some of the newer Toyotas (& I know especially the auto IS's) run a speedo signal from the ABS sensors, but that's it.
If it becomes troublesome with the factory IS stuff, I'd be ripping the ABS gear out of another Toyota without a body computer, wiring & computer included, & installing that instead.
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