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Thread: W58 into TA22 Celica

  1. #1
    Purple is the new black! Automotive Encyclopaedia sillycar chick's Avatar
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    Default W58 into TA22 Celica

    W58 into TA22 – the good, the bad and the ugly…

    Whilst recently embarking on this conversion, I discovered no one has actually done a write up on how to do this and more importantly, what issues you may come across. This is a relatively easy conversion, but there are a few areas where you may come unstuck that should be pointed out.

    Parts you need to collect:

    - W58 gearbox (or 55, 57… ), 1G bellhousing with clutch fork , throwout bearing and slave cylinder - 3TGTE is better if you can get hold of it but rare as hens teeth. The 1G will have the slave on the passenger side which may cause issues, I will explain this further on. I believe the 3TGTE may be the better option being on the drivers side, but you would need to confirm this for yourself.

    - TA22 auto tailshaft
    correct length and correct yoke at gearbox end

    - TA22 auto gearbox crossmember
    will mate with gearbox where manual one is different pattern, but needs some modifying explained later

    - Flywheel and clutch
    you can use whatever T series or G series flywheel you wish, but note you will need a clutch disc with the correct spline for the supra gearbox. T series and G series flywheels both share the same crankshaft bolt pattern, and ring gear diameter, but the clutch face and clutch bolts/dowel diameters will differ. Also if you are using a 3TGTE bellhousing and want to use a 1G gen 3 clutch I would recommend you check the clutch cover fits inside the bellhousing before you start bolting everything up to the engine. I cant confirm whether or not the bigger clutch will fit in this bellhousing.

    Stage 1 – remove the T50
    This is easy enough if there’s 2 of you (one of you if you’re really game) and a few jacks, pull out the gearbox and cross-member, obviously to do this the tailshaft will need to come out, I ended up pulling out my exhaust as well for extra room. To make this a little easier, we loosened off the engine mounts, and jacked up under the sump a little to tilt the engine back. This gives you more room to get to the top bolts to undo them. Then remove the clutch (and flywheel if you are replacing this, or getting it machined which is recommended with a new clutch). If you have a 1G bell housing you’ll also need to pull out the clutch lines up to the clutch master as you will need to make up (or have made up) some new ones over to the drivers side.

    Stage 2 – install the new clutch (and flywheel)
    Since I was going to the effort of pulling the gearbox out, I opted to replace everything where possible to save having to do it again for a long while. So out came the standard 3T flywheel at about 12kgs. I also pulled out the spigot bearing at the back of the crankshaft that needed replacing. You don’t have to do this as they don’t go all that often but mine was a little grindy so I decided to swap it. To do this, you need to pump grease into the cavity behind it, then get yourself something the same diameter as the ID of the bearing (needs to be a fairly tight fit) and drive it in there, this will force the grease to push the bearing out. You may need to give it a few goes to get it all the way out. You can usually use some wooden dowel, I didn’t have any so just used a ¼ drive socket and extension with some rag around it to take up the clearance. Once this was out I carefully drove the new one in.

    Next was to install the new flywheel. I opted for a custom 1G gen 3 Chromoly flywheel, at 5kgs I think, courtesy of Dougie at Nicks Performance Clutch. Bloody legend he is, very helpful. I also used some ARP flywheel bolts, they aren’t listed for the 3T engine, but 4AG ones are the same and probably 1G as well. I also used one of his clutch kits, which was an exedy heavy duty kit, with a modified pressure plate by NPC for a lighter pedal feel. This is the go, my pedal is so light and easy to use with this clutch! So this was all bolted in and aligned using a clutch alignment tool, don’t use the universal type as they are crap, I bought a proper one for a few measley dollars and got the clutch in easily.

    Stage 3 – Installing the supra gearbox
    Once your clutch is in, measure up your gearbox against the transmission tunnel. You may need to widen this with a hammer a little so work out where it may hit and give it a few good whacks. It will be a lot more annoying getting the gearbox almost in and finding it’s a bit of a tight squeeze. Now once youre satisfied theres enough room you can put the gearbox in. This can be fun to line up, so make sure you have yourself set up well, everything in reach and use a few jacks to get it all lined up. A gearbox jack is better if you can get it. Once its in you can bolt the bellhousing up to the engine. As you will probably find, the hole in the floor for the gear shifter will need to be cut out a little more towards the rear of the car. I have one of the middle shifter positions on my gearbox, so didnt need to take too much out of the floor. I also had to modify my custom console to give it room. If you have a rear shifter position on your gearbox, be prepared to cut out a fair bit of floor, or try swapping the shifter part with someone who has a middle one. I believe they are interchangeable.

    Stage 4 – Starter Motor
    You may find with your 1G bellhousing that your T series starter motor doesnt quite bolt up, because it has 1 thread in the starter and 1 in the T bellhousing, whereas the G series has both holes in the starter motor threaded. You can probably use the T series starter and get a longer bolt to go through one hole with a nut. I opted to use the 1G starter, because I had one in pinching distance, and well... i'll let the photos show why I went for it!



    Stage 5 – The gearbox cross member
    With the gearbox mated to the engine and the back half jacked up, you can now tighten up the engine mounts again. Make sure the rear jack isn’t under where the gearbox mounts to the cross member. You can now bolt the cross member up to the gearbox, and you will see where the holes line up in relation to the mounting points on the body. Here you will see you need to use some extension plates or angles to mount it to the body. We used some angle, and welded the cross member to this, and bolted the angle to the body using bolt holes a distance from each other (not the inner ones). Make sure you drill holes in your angles first and bolt them in, then line up the cross member and tack it under the car, once this is done you can unbolt it and take it out to weld it up properly. Others have simply bolted the cross member to the angle instead of welding, we opted for welding as we thought the gearbox would sit up too high and touch the floor if we simply bolted it in place. Once the modified cross member is in place you can remove the jack, and install your auto tailshaft. I replaced the uni joints in mine with new items that had grease nipples in them, and pumped plenty of grease in. With my tailshaft, I noticed the flange of the diff didn’t line up to the end of the tailshaft, this is because there are 2 different bolt patterns in the 22s. Luckily I had another diff centre in the shed, so just unbolted the flange from the diff and swapped them over.

    Stage 6 – Slave cylinder on the passenger side
    On the T series engine you will notice the slave is now on the same side as the exhaust. In my car, we found the extractors would hit on the slave cylinder when we tried to install the extractors. The 4-1 collector was trying to squeeze between the bleed nipple on the slave, and the steering arm mount on the chassis. It was also hitting on the clutch fork. I ended up getting a custom set of extractors made as despite trying a few different extractors, I didn’t have any luck getting any to fit.



    For the clutch line, I went to pirtek with a sample of my steel clutch line, and asked for about a meter and a half of line, and 2 fittings. All we did was bend this up (make sure you use a pipe bender so as not to crush the tube) to suit, put the fittings on and took it back to Pirtek to get the ends flared. Bleed the slave and you should have clutch!

    In closing...
    I will add any more tips that I may have forgotten should I happen to remember them. Whilst this conversion isnt all that difficult, I would recommend having another vehicle to get to work because you may not get it all done in one weekend as I found. I had many dramas with wrong parts being supplied, finding other issues that needed fixing, and waiting for my extractors to be made. You may find some of my cursing in my rides thread. I'll add some more pics soon as I dont have them all here yet.
    51LII - 1972 TA22 Celica | Morpheous Metallic | 4AGE 20v Silvertop | Razorback ECU | W58
    Toyota Car Club (Qld)

    Quote Originally Posted by TheToyman75 View Post
    There is not much hotter than a Freshly painted Celica, Unless its the reflection of a freshly painted Celica on a freshly painted Celica

  2. #2
    ****** Backyard Mechanic 79GT's Avatar
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    Default Re: W58 into TA22 Celica

    great right up.

    Also what i should add, you can use any RA23 or RA28 2 piece tailshaft, it is a direct bolt in and thankfully are much more common that the Auto TA22 shafts.

    peace.

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    7M-BHGE Automotive Encyclopaedia
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    Default Re: W58 into TA22 Celica

    Nice work,
    Do you have any pics of what exactly you did to the ta22 auto crossmember? - or a more clear description?
    Quote Originally Posted by skiddz
    deodorised fish oil = winnnaaaaaa, goodness of teh fishz but with out the smellz

  4. #4
    Purple is the new black! Automotive Encyclopaedia sillycar chick's Avatar
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    Default Re: W58 into TA22 Celica

    Sorry I got ahead of myself and forgot to take progress pics, so dont have any of the cross member. I'll try get some next time im under the car...
    Maybe my dodgy sketch will help Imagine youre looking from the rear of the car....
    51LII - 1972 TA22 Celica | Morpheous Metallic | 4AGE 20v Silvertop | Razorback ECU | W58
    Toyota Car Club (Qld)

    Quote Originally Posted by TheToyman75 View Post
    There is not much hotter than a Freshly painted Celica, Unless its the reflection of a freshly painted Celica on a freshly painted Celica

  5. #5
    7M-BHGE Automotive Encyclopaedia
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    Default Re: W58 into TA22 Celica

    Thanks,

    So the X-member is dropped a few inches? Can this not be done with spacers? Like thick steel spacers.

    Not necessarily solid spacers, maybe rectangular tubing (structural steel).

    Also, I think you were saying that the X-member bolt holes are aligned with the car, so does that mean with a Ta22 auto X-member, you dont need to move the x-member backward, only to drop it a few inches?
    Quote Originally Posted by skiddz
    deodorised fish oil = winnnaaaaaa, goodness of teh fishz but with out the smellz

  6. #6
    Purple is the new black! Automotive Encyclopaedia sillycar chick's Avatar
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    Default Re: W58 into TA22 Celica

    You could space it out a bit if you wanted to try and get more weld on it, but its probably not all that necessary, I cant see you getting any more weld on it that way. We got plenty of weld on the angles to hold it on. When you have the gearbox in place you will see where the crossmember has to bolt to the gearbox, and that when you bolt that on, the front holes of the cross member will line up with the rear holes in the body, hence the need for extension plates
    51LII - 1972 TA22 Celica | Morpheous Metallic | 4AGE 20v Silvertop | Razorback ECU | W58
    Toyota Car Club (Qld)

    Quote Originally Posted by TheToyman75 View Post
    There is not much hotter than a Freshly painted Celica, Unless its the reflection of a freshly painted Celica on a freshly painted Celica

  7. #7
    7M-BHGE Automotive Encyclopaedia
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    Default Re: W58 into TA22 Celica

    cheers, its all clear now.
    Quote Originally Posted by skiddz
    deodorised fish oil = winnnaaaaaa, goodness of teh fishz but with out the smellz

  8. #8
    someone say 2t-ze? Automotive Encyclopaedia gerald1's Avatar
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    Default Re: W58 into TA22 Celica

    edit : ooops wrong thread
    ta22 Green with cream vinyl roof, 2t/3t hybrid with a few go fast bits on + 5 speed.

  9. #9
    Junior Member Conversion King timbosaurus's Avatar
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    Default Re: W58 into TA22 Celica

    Dana, do you mind me asking what the clutch fittings cost?

    I assume you used 3/16" bundy brake tube (which is around $5 a metre)?
    Current rides...
    2) White RA25ST
    1) Red RA28LT (NOW WITH 1G )

  10. #10
    Purple is the new black! Automotive Encyclopaedia sillycar chick's Avatar
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    Default Re: W58 into TA22 Celica

    Crikey, I cant remember I'll have a look at home and see if i still have the receipt... I think it was pretty cheap though, just went to Pirtek and got some tube and 2 end fittings...
    51LII - 1972 TA22 Celica | Morpheous Metallic | 4AGE 20v Silvertop | Razorback ECU | W58
    Toyota Car Club (Qld)

    Quote Originally Posted by TheToyman75 View Post
    There is not much hotter than a Freshly painted Celica, Unless its the reflection of a freshly painted Celica on a freshly painted Celica

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    Forum Member 1st year Apprentice
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    Default Re: W58 into TA22 Celica

    Just to add to this thread, to use a 3rd Gen (235mm clutch & pressure plate) with a 3T-GTE bellhousing a spacer is required in addition to the backing plate. I had another backing plate so the center portion was cut out leaving the outer ring to push the belhousing back 2-3mm. This leaves the required room for the clutch assembly. I am running a 2/3T-GEU hybrid with a W55, NPC 1G flywheel with a modified pressure plate in a T-18.
    5 years in the making, go to T-18's

  12. #12
    Forum Member Grease Monkey
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    Default Re: W58 into TA22 Celica

    Thanks for the info and detailed write up, definitely better box

  13. #13
    king & queen of cheese Domestic Engineer lilcrash's Avatar
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    Default Re: W58 into TA22 Celica

    not sure if anyone else has noticed but in the 2 times i have used a w55/56/57/58 the bolt holes for the gearbox crossmemebr were already there from the factory.
    Looking for a new toy. If you have something 18r powered let me know.

    RIP, where ever you are :- 1974 celica, 3tgte and 186.5hp at 6500rpm

  14. #14
    Junior Member Grease Monkey
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    Default Re: W58 into TA22 Celica

    Resurrecting this thread because I need to upgrade my T50 box.

    I am blowing T50 gearboxes since I re-built my 2T/3T hybrid and I I need to
    resolve it once and for all!

    I have bought a W58 box and I need to get it to mate with my 2Tg engine............

    Dana, you say the 1G bellhousing fits the W58 and a 2T/3t series engine, is that the 6 speed Lexus IS200 or Altezza over your way? I ask because the bellhousing on the gearboxes I've seen over here seem very long, would the whole Lexus 6 speed box therefore fit?? They are cheap as chips over here. I realise position and prop would need to be altered but that's easy enough.
    Since this original post was made, and thank you very much Dana, is there other ways of getting a W58 to mate with a 2T engine? I've contacted Apolloworks for an adapter plate but had no reply, the Nite bellhousing mates to the w58 but is for a 4ag engine.
    Help!!

  15. #15
    king & queen of cheese Domestic Engineer lilcrash's Avatar
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    Default Re: W58 into TA22 Celica

    Ok to use the w58. You can use a bellhousing from the ga70/gz10.

    But yes you can just use the j160 from the altezza.
    Looking for a new toy. If you have something 18r powered let me know.

    RIP, where ever you are :- 1974 celica, 3tgte and 186.5hp at 6500rpm

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