Advice needed: 4agte build up

[Butters]

Hi all, after our gze nuked itself on the track a few weeks ago, we've come to the conclusion it would be best to go the turbo route. I would really appreciate some sage advice on the best options available to us, given the car will be used exclusively for track racing.

We've bought a silvertop 20v 4age for its 7-rib block, we also have at our disposal a number of 16v fwd 4ages in various states of disrepair, and an AFM 4agze with melted pistons, and good performance cams.

One concern of ours is the reliability of stainless steel manifolds, which i hear are prone to cracking. These appear to be the most commonly available prefabricated options for us however. Is it worth holding out until we can find a steam-pipe manifold, or will s/s generally be ok for track use?

What type/size of turbo have the 4agte owners on here been using with good success?

Can i get some recommendations for aftermarket ECU's?

Is there a general intercooler type or size we should be looking at using?

Aftermarket pistons, or a new set of gze pistons with good rings?


This is one option we have been considering:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...-149816686.htm

Turboing is a relatively new concept to us, so apologies if these aren't the questions i should be asking.
Any advice appreciated.

Cheers, Butters.

[blacktop]

There isn't much difference in the flow when turbo charging a 20v or 16v (so i've herd), some people go a 20v bottom end with a bigport head.

Personally i would use your 20v bottom with a 16v head after market forged pistons and some nice rods, I say after market pistons because you stated its a race car, so it would be better to go with the top quality stuff rather than the semi forged GZE options, with a T28bb turbo, and the Ebay manifolds aren't that bad.

with your ECU it would be an idea to ask your tuner what he prefers, as it comes down to personal prefrance with ECU's, Haltech's are nice though.

The set-up in that link looks pretty good to me, and the manifold looks to be well built and genuinely built for all 4age's, you can tell buy the elongated stud holes on the end.

I think you can get a GReddy generic FMIC, which would be a good match for the turbo i mentioned above.

Good luck, and the best thing to do is Research and make your own decisions, just look up google and other forums, also check this out
http://www.driftaustralia.com.au/for...?TOPIC_ID=1388

Might ba a bit on the expensive side, but its still probably half of what it cost to build.

[takai]

Actually that engine which Beau is selling is a whole lot of not much for that price. If you are relatively competent with engine building (as you appear to be, with the amount of engine bits you have) it shouldnt cost you that much.

Arias Pistons - $650
GZE Rods - $380
ARP studs and bolts - $250
TRD headgasket - $90
Ported Bigport Head - $250
GT28 off GTR ($400) or GT28RS brand new - $1700
Wastegate (38mm) - $120
Manifold - $200
800cc Injectors - $800
W58 - $400
Extreme Flywheel/Clutch combo - $1200

That with even a microtech should be reliably pushing 200rwkw.

[turbo4agte]

so it would be better to go with the top quality stuff rather than the semi forged GZE options.

Before this turns into a flame war, that subject has been gone over. They are fully forged, not semi. Read more here: http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_262688

As far as the build. I would go with the 20v head and GZE block with new O/S GZE pistons and gapless rings, along with a Megasquirt or Microtech ECU to keep the costs down, but there are better ones for a bigger budget. Intercoolers are a delicate area. Picking the wrong one can screw up the powerband. Here's some info a shop has on their website: http://www.are.com.au/feat/techtalk/intecoolersMR.htm. I've heard mixed reviews on SS manifolds... It really boils down to welding quality and material used. Quality of welds is a per shop comparison, but most will agree you should have SUS 321 or higher grade SS to avoid cracking and longevity against corrosion.

[blacktop]

Before this turns into a flame war, that subject has been gone over. They are fully forged, not semi. Read more here: http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_262688

Meh! Semi, Fully, there still not as good as Aries.

[turbo4agte]

Meh! Semi, Fully, there still not as good as Aries.

Yeah, your right. And for his application, the Arias would probably be the best setup. But for a guy like me who's building a street engine and doesn't always have time to let the engine warm up properly the GZE pistons are better than the Arias pistons, because they are still forged, but wont slap as much when cold.

[Butters]

Thanks a bunch, you guys are great

I'll do some homework and look into those options. Will probably have a few more questions to ask once i've done that.

Cheers, Butters

[Grega]

stainless steel is not the best for turbo manifolds
ask the drift scene - there seems to be lots of issues with stainless ALTHOUGH in saying that the grade of stainless you use has alot to do with it as well.

ideally look towards a fabricated cast steam pipe turbo manifold. as long as it is constructed properly it will last forever.

[blacktop]

There was someone doing Copy HKS manifolds, they where a pretty good item from Memory, try searching them.

[Grega]

if memory serves you can still get the original HKS items too