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Thread: Various 1jz questions/master cyl questions

  1. #1
    Cressyskidder Grease Monkey Bowlsclubboy's Avatar
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    Nov 2005
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    Default Various 1jz questions/master cyl questions

    Hey guys...in the process of rebuilding my 1jz MX83 cressy drift car, removing any unnessecary weight and making the engine as leakproof and reliable as possible.

    Trying to remove any unneeded coolant lines from the engine after converting to a single oil bearing turbo, as well as some other unrelated questions...

    -The various vac lines into the throttle body before the butterfly (TRC TB with TB butterfly removed) are these needed for any real reason? Same goes for the water lines? these are only good for cold start yeah?

    -The sensor with 2 vac lines into it that bolts underneath the intake manifold between runner 3 and 4, what was this used for? Its not hooked up to anything after fitting the adaptronic so i hope it wasnt important!

    -By removing the large stainless coolant pipe that runs from the front of one side of the block, around the back and to the front of the other side, if i remove this and block off the subsequent holes, will i create hotspots in the block or something stupid? (newbie question)

    -The 'buffers' (mushroom looking things) on the fuel inlet line (after the filter) and at the other outlet end of the fuel rail, are these able to be removed without manjor detrimental effect? I have a 255 walbro and sard 650cc injectors if that makes any difference. The reason i ask is because my mate had a major headache with his hachi which had us scratching our head for like a week, until we tracked it down to a faulty buffer.

    -I work at an aircraft restoration facility and we deal with heaps of AN fittings, braided lines and awesome looking alloy lines. I'm braiding as much as i can and making new hard lines and stuff...is there much advantage in upgrading the fuel hose size on a 1j? I'm guessing you'd be nearing 600hp before this becomes an issue? How much bigger to go is the norn for this?

    Last question....i want to make myself a trick looking lightweight handbrake and i thought, why not do something different.
    How do you guys think a handbrake would go with a dual master cyl setup? By that i mean, as you pull the handbrake up, an inline cyl first activates the clutch, then the handle overcentres once the clutch is fully engaged, and the rear brake cylinder is activated until the rears are locked. I figured you only ever use the handbrake whilst the clutch is engaged so why not make it easy on myself! I'm going to run 2 sets of R33 calipers on the rear, as seen on mk2 GP4 escorts, this was because if i happen to tap the brakes whilst on the handbrake with the current setup, the brakes do screwy things and lock on me and stuff. I'm probably going to cause the same problems with the clutch with this idea though heh.

    Thanks in advance guys with whatever you can help with.

    Cheers,

    Troy
    1992 MX83 Cressida Grande-1JZ-GTE...Actively Dori.

  2. #2
    Cressyskidder Grease Monkey Bowlsclubboy's Avatar
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    Nov 2005
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    Default Re: Various 1jz questions/master cyl questions

    EDIT: I read Toy77's post http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=34492 and it answered a few questions. Might do what manny said and link the rear up to the top rad hose for some 5+6 cyl protection.
    1992 MX83 Cressida Grande-1JZ-GTE...Actively Dori.

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