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Thread: The 1UZ Mods Thread

  1. #1
    Junior Member Grease Monkey CoronaC's Avatar
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    Default The 1UZ Mods Thread

    Alrighty, I'm starting this thread again so myself and others can ask questions about possible mods they can do to there 1UZ's or get help on what parts to use, where to get them etc.

    This time no off topic last previous thread had.

    Cruz, in the last thread you posted a pic of a manifold and said it was being sold for around $1500, what site was that from? Just getting a bit interested in some S/C builds and I'm thinking that would be a good idea for the celsior if i end up going with that car.

    Also with that manifold how much (roughly) would it end up costing for either M90 or M112 with that manifold, piping, IC, and all the other parts needed?

    Thats all from me for now, remember keep it on topic, I would like to keep this thread open

    Cheers
    Chris

  2. #2
    Yep they look great Carport Converter gianttomato's Avatar
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    Default Re: The 1UZ Mods Thread

    www.1uzquadcam.co.nz for the NA manifold, 20V throttle bodies and linkage kit - roughly 2K or so.

    Tool around www.planetsoarer.com for the supercharger manifold (IIRC it was part of a kit which cost 5-6K).

  3. #3
    Forum Member 1st year Apprentice
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    Default Re: The 1UZ Mods Thread

    Has anyone used that 1uzquadcam 8throttle body intake?

    I'd loved to know how it performs (yes i've read their site..)

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    Plumber Automotive Encyclopaedia Robbos_Toyotas's Avatar
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    Default Re: The 1UZ Mods Thread

    much like jaguar v12's use, could you create a 2 (i per side) or 4 (2 per side) throttle body manifold design for the 1uz? Even take an e-type jag intake for example...although the 6 cylinder is not efi, it uses 3 seperate manifolds (the upgrade to 3 webbers) By using the footprint and porting and polishing the stock runners surely something creative and beneficial could be made for a fraction of $2000 that the 8tb's cost??? Just an idea as id like a 1UZ for the hilux im going to buy.

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    Plumber Automotive Encyclopaedia Robbos_Toyotas's Avatar
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    Default Re: The 1UZ Mods Thread

    someone who wants to make some money perhaps needs to look at developing a chip for a 1uz ecu....correct me if one is already on the market.

  6. #6
    Junior Member Grease Monkey
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    Default Re: The 1UZ Mods Thread

    The supercharger kit is available from Neil Griffiths of Rush Imports. Sponsor/ Trader on ALSC , now http://soarercentral.com/cgi-bin/sc-forum/discus.cgi

    They are running up to 7psi with no cooling and getting about 175rwkw. Torque is great.
    I have a link to Neil at his first attempt at Calder with the supercharger on.

    Another ALSC member Damien Smith is doing the ITB's. Search those two and you will get heaps.

    Harry Lemmens also has done ECU mods for the Soarer to raise the rev limit and remove the speed cut. ALSC memeber also.

    Lextreme owner David Phan has doen heaps of stuff and his forum is also worth searching for good info.
    http://www.lextreme.com/

    Twin SMT6's , by Perfect Power, i think they were yeilded good results on timing also.

  7. #7
    Junior Member Too Much Toyota
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    Default Re: The 1UZ Mods Thread

    Autronic, Link, Haltch, Microtech, etc could all probably drive the 1UZ if the installer dealt with the dual dizzi in a sensible fashion (waste-spark with CoPs seems the simplest and wold only require a crank trigger with a missing tooth) and you were willing to not run VVTi (if your engine had it).

    You don't 'chip' Toyota ECUs - you either piggyback them and spoof sensor inputs and ECU outputs or replace the ECU with a different box and tune it from scratch.

  8. #8
    Plumber Automotive Encyclopaedia Robbos_Toyotas's Avatar
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    Default Re: The 1UZ Mods Thread

    well some uber hot piggy back then

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    Junior Member Grease Monkey CoronaC's Avatar
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    Default Re: The 1UZ Mods Thread

    Also it seams no one really makes those supercharger manifolds or sell the kits anymore, there are some sites people say to look at but the sites dont realy have anything saying if they still make/sell the manifolds anymore, www.rustimports.com.au is one of them.

    Cheers
    chris
    Last edited by CoronaC; 21-02-2006 at 01:21 AM.

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    Toymods Pimp Chief Engine Builder Norbie's Avatar
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    Default Re: The 1UZ Mods Thread

    Well of course a Celsior is going to use more fuel than a Corona, you've got twice as much engine and nearly twice as much weight! If you want to move a luxobarge around at a decent rate of knots you're going to use a fair amount of fuel. I reckon they do pretty good fuel economy all things considered.

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    Yep they look great Carport Converter gianttomato's Avatar
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    Default Re: The 1UZ Mods Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by CoronaC
    Just wondering about that, 1uz's arnt realy the best with fuel eco, worse then my 2s-c rona, 400-500km per 85L tank in the celsiors (so ive heard) and i get about the same from 55L from my rona both city/surban driving.
    If you're worried about fuel economy, maybe the Corona is for you.

  12. #12
    Junior Member Grease Monkey CoronaC's Avatar
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    Default Re: The 1UZ Mods Thread

    Forget it dont know why i even bothered asking.....

    I also didnt ask for your opinions on which car is better for me, out of interest i asked how a certain mod would change the fuel consumtion.
    Last edited by CoronaC; 21-02-2006 at 01:37 AM.

  13. #13
    Plumber Automotive Encyclopaedia Robbos_Toyotas's Avatar
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    Default Re: The 1UZ Mods Thread

    any positive mod will use more fuel

    unless you buy an emanage and tune it to use less fuel....bit pita imo...

  14. #14
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia Nim's Avatar
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    Default Re: The 1UZ Mods Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by thechuckster
    Autronic, Link, Haltch, Microtech, etc could all probably drive the 1UZ if the installer dealt with the dual dizzi in a sensible fashion (waste-spark with CoPs seems the simplest and wold only require a crank trigger with a missing tooth) and you were willing to not run VVTi (if your engine had it).

    You don't 'chip' Toyota ECUs - you either piggyback them and spoof sensor inputs and ECU outputs or replace the ECU with a different box and tune it from scratch.
    Could you upgrade it to coil packs with a new ECU?
    Daily: DC2 Integra VTiR :: 96kw @7300rpm - 132nm @6300rpm
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    Toymods V8 Member Too Much Toyota CrUZida's Avatar
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    Default Re: The 1UZ Mods Thread

    Ok, time to make a serious post here. I wasn't going to bother because for some reason people don't listen to me when I have 1UZ input. Maybe I know nothing about it???

    Before I start CoronaC, that manifold was from http://www.forcedairtech.com.au/
    Don't know much else about it, and don't intend to do any research as I have no plans for supercharging and/or turbo charging.


    Where do you start?

    Well, whats the weakest part of the 1UZ? The factory ecu. It is a fucking piece of shit.
    Toyota have tuned it so conservatively it really is an embarassment to the rest of Toyota.
    As far as being ultra smooth/quiet/perfection it is the pinnacle, but we don't want that now, we want performance.
    Stock the car puts out about 60hp/L.
    For comparison sake the 5M-E put out 50hp/L and the 22R-E puts out 54hp/L
    Add to this the motor is 10 years newer, had about $0.99US billion more spent on it, and has a mucho higher compression.
    The 7MGE puts out 63hp/L and has a lower compression.

    The fuel/timing tune on the stock 1UZ is very very conservative.
    Now, if it posted phenomenal fuel efficiency then that would be fine.
    But it doesn't. I get 11L/100km on cruise (yet to do a nice flat 100kph run though) and 13-14L/100km around the city. And my car weighs 200kg less than factory 1UZ cars.

    What are your ECU options?

    UniChip is by far the most used uber piggyback. Thus far, I am yet to be impressed by a car that has be retuned by a UniChip tuner.
    Whether this is because (A) UniChip tuners can't tune, (B) UniChip tuners don't want to tune for performance (C) The UniChip has very limited tuning ability, I don't know.
    But thus far all the UniChip tunes I have seen have yeilded what I determine crap results.

    Xede is another piggyback that has come up. As I mentioned in the other thread.

    AFAIK those are the main uber piggybacks. Below that you have your SAFC's and whatever else. Don't know, don't really care. The JayCar DFA for $120ish is what I'd try first. It does more than the SAFC and less than half the price.

    All the above will be stuck with the AFM, which at a guess, will limit you.
    My rule of thumb, if you change the cams, piss the AFM off.

    Ok, on to stand alone ECUs.
    ALL of the major brands (Microtech, Link, Wolf, Haltech, Autronic, MoTeC, yes, there are more) can control the motor without touching any crank discs, sensors etc.
    They can all run the stock dual coil/dizzy arrangement, and use most, if not all, stock sensors.
    If you want to go CoP then you'll have to choose more wisely. Some will only be able to do wasted spark (only have 4 ignition outputs), some will be able to full sequential. It depends on your budget.
    If you have a VVTi 1UZ then at this stage only the Autronic and MoTeC have the capability to control this (the VVTi).

    I'm not going to go into how easy they are to wire/get running/tune etc, as I'll leave that up to you.

    AFAIK MoTeC is the only one that can run the Autobox as well (M800 model only), so if you want to stay auto you'll have to work out something. Some people have had success with leaving the stock ECU there for the auto, and going standalone for the engine. Have never wired one up myself like this, so can't really comment.

    There are other options. I know of a guy using MAP-ECU, car is driving but no performance figures yet. MegaSquirt is another option if you like tinkering. Haven't heard of anyone getting it running on this yet.
    Delco is another option. You can buy a black box to interface between the stock sensors/pickups and a stock VN-VS V8 Delco ECU. Can be a quite expensive way to do it, but a bonus if you have friends who know the Kalmaker setup.


    Ok, so now you have the ECU side of things sorted, lets move onto the motor.

    Exhaust is where I'd start.


    At a guess, the Celsior headers will happily flow a good 200rwkw before they create a restriction, and maybe up to 220-240rwkw before they are really holding you back.
    The Soarer headers will be more like 170rwkw before any restriction, and then 200rwkw before they hold you back.
    The early Crown headers are a restriction at stock power, but would max out about 160rwkw. (I managed 150rwkw on Crown headers, only semi tuned).

    Rush Imports have off the shelf headers for the Soarer, not 100% sure if they fit the Celsior.
    They aren't the best design as the collectors on the passengers side collect the wrong ports, but for $600ish (last check) you can't go wrong.

    After the headers/extractors its entirely up to you what you want to do.
    Just remember to size it for the power you want to achieve. The exhaust will drone badly if the exhaust is too big.


    Now that your exhaust is done its time to work the motor.

    Next restriction is the cams. They are almost as conservative as the ECU tune.
    At a guess on stock internals you will not get 200rwkw (stock pistons, stock heads, NA).
    I managed 180rwkw through a manual, but another guy got 175rwkw through an auto. So theoretically 190rwkw would be the max on stock cams.
    When I get the car retuned if I get more than 180rwkw I will post.

    Cams cam be had from a few places, in what ever grinds you want.
    I think ~10.5mm is the maximum lift before you need to convert to shim under bucket.
    Kelford Cams in NZ do the cast billets, and they sell the blanks to Tighe Cams.
    SureCams also do regrinds (I presume weld and regrind)
    I found others in my search but forget them now.
    I will be going with either Tighe Cams or Kelfords when I get mine, yet to be decided.

    On mild cams, you can probably stick with the stock throttle body.
    If you get medium to wild cams, the stock throttle body will be a restriction.
    (The above assumes you've already pissed off the AFM).

    You have a few route to go with throttle bodies.
    * You can get a larger one fitted to the stock manifold (VH45 run 90mm IIRC)
    * You can do what I did and weld another stock throttle body to the other side of the plenum (2x70mm = 99mm throttle body)
    * You can get the 1uzquadcam.co.nz setup with ITB's
    * Or you can make your own custom ITB setup.
    AFAIK no other place has ITB's ready, but there are some working on it.


    After you have done cams/intake/exhaust/ecu, you have the expensive things.
    You can port/polish the heads, increase compression, bore/stroke the motor if you are that way inclined, but none of these are cheap, and for the most part it will be custom.
    Check out the Lextreme forums for possible group buys/places to purchase.


    On to the transmission
    .
    The stock auto will not hold all this raw power.
    You can trick up the auto or convert to manual.
    MV Automatics are the most prominent place to get the autobox shift kitted, but they are not the only place.

    Manual wise you have the choice of W5x, R154, and V160.
    W5x bellhousings are available from Dellow, CRS (both questionable quality), Bullet Supercars apparently make their own now, waiting on pics for confirmation (they used to use CRS), and 1uzquadcam.org makes them too (picture of it looks very good).
    R154 bellhousings are available form Dellow, CRS (still questionable quality).
    V160 adaptor plates are available from some dude in the US. In a group buy at the moment for $350USD, but after that the price will jack up to $750USD (fuck nose how they worked out that price increase. Worlds biggest ripoff).

    Flywheels are available from Dellow, CRS (both questionable quality and weights), QuadCams Australia (awesome quality and not too heavy). I believe Venom Cars (Venom Cobra KitCars?) does them too, quality looks better than Dellow/CRS, but not as good as QCA.

    I'm not 100% sure if the R154 kits use a pull or a push clutch. I think its push.
    AFAIK all flywheels are setup to use a hilux plate.


    I think that covers everything.

    Gaskets/bearings can all be had from ACL.


    Power/economy/longetivity is all in the tuning.
    A friend has been able to get 8L/100km in his Wolf3d powered 1UZ/Auto. Tuned it himself for cruising.
    Another guy on Delco has claimed 6L/100km (straining the memory here) with his 1UZ/manual.
    Last edited by CrUZida; 27-02-2006 at 03:17 PM.
    Peewee
    1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
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