Simple 3sge Mods

[Lonewolf]

I'd like to optimize the stock performance of the MR2 engine, as I'l be running in a hillclimb next month, and as the car is stock at the moment, i figured i'll have a better chance of winning the sub 2L stock than to try and do it up to beat the sub 2L modified, its just not going to happen in a month. I'd like to win so i can go hit up some more sponsors

1 - Plugs: Should i stay with the stock heat range or go 1 colder. I cant find what they should be gapped at, and what way should i be indexing them to face?
2 - Fuel: I normally run on shell optimax, is there any gain to be had with octane boosters?(marketing BS aside) or better performing fuels?
3 - Tyre pressures: its stock rims with decent tyres (205 front, 225 back). Is there a recommended pressure. I'll probably set it just over that cause it's near on impossible to break traction as it is.
4 - Intake Gasket: does the intake manifold gasket from a 3sgte fit a 3sge
5 - Port matching: will this work on its own or only with a proper port job?
6 - Launch: Whats a good launch RPM?

(I know the next few are technically mods, but they dont get checked for)
7 - Pulley: is the 3sgte crank pulley the same as the 3sge unit?
8 - Throttle body: will a 2nd or 3rd gen3sgte fit the 3sge?
8.5 - Coolant bypass: Has anyone done this? how hard is it to do?
9 - Cat: It needs replacing (with a high flow cat?) any preferences with different ones or are they all pretty much the same?
10 - Hiclone: do these things actually work or not?

Wont need to do brake pad as the car stops on a dime as is, coolant got changed last week, oil+filter 2 days ago, dunno if its worth balancing the injectors, dont use the handbrake, got a new clutch/flywheel, clutch master cyl and clutch fluid tomorrow(i hate slipping clutches, i hate leaking master cylinders even more), Going to do some weight loss prior to event (dont need to take back seats out now )

If i did get put in the modified class i wouldnt be too impressed, the winner from that class last time i was there was a hyandai accent which is potent, and i'd hate to have to fess up to being bested by a hyandai (of any sort) in a MR2

[RyleyMA61]

probably fairly irrelevant, but i have heard a fair bit of bad news about optimax. i've also been told that bp ultimate and mobil synergy 9000 are the shiznit... probably a much of a muchness and depends on the petrol station.... but yeah.

And what profile are your tyres? As far as I know higher air pressures are better, but in large-sidewall tyres a bit of extra helps to reduce flex- in my MA61 (225/60) I run about 34psi...

And if the MR2 3SGE is anything like the one in an st162 SX, as far as I know, about 4000rpm is a good launch point... But I am no expert, having only had a 3sge in the family for a few weeks.

Good luck mate!

[Bahnugget]

launch at 4000, crap, you must like wheelspin... i launch at 3000 at the most...

Fuel: you may be able to put that octane crap in and advance ur timing a little bit?
Tyre Pressures: depends how you want it to feel, the higher the better, depends how much traction you want...
Intake Gasket: i dont see how a 3sg-te gasket's going to do jack all, if they do fit, i'd say they'd be the same.

as for the other stuff, im not entirely sure aboutmost of them, but for the cat, the "hiflow" ones are severely over rated.. and any power increase from a hiflow cat is goign to be minimal, and probably not even useful to you.

the 3S-GE is a very well buit motor, and when you look at other 2.0 cars of same era, it pretty much wins.. i'd go in the stock class if i were you.

good luck

[wiso]

tyre pressures, stock would probably be about 30f 32r or something, maybe 28f 30r personally i would set about 34/5f 36/7r, mr2 usually run a couple of psi high in the rear the same way ff car run higher in the front.

launch from what ever in an m2, you won't wheelspin on a stock 3sge, at best guess i would say about 3000 ish, be warned your clutch better be strong though, if you drop it in an mr2 you will most likely slip your clutch rather than spin your wheels, it the problem with having soo much traction on the rear wheels trying to push the car.

yeah what would an intake gasket and crank pulley do???

hiclones are bs, they become a restriction in your intake letting less air past the mass

[sw20r]

The ports are good enough on toyota motors. You can do a slight buffing on them though with a dremel to clean it up.

Power
There's a part of HKS cams on import bitz - 264in/ex. not too sure on lift but I assume its about 9mm. You might need to use HKS valve springs but ring bd4's and double check.
Cams are $650 last time I checked.

with the plugs maybe try go 1 colder, I use NGK IRWAYS. Also go with a K&N panel filter.

With the N/A's are they running a dizzy? On my old 4AGE's i used to run 2-3 Angles+ at Idle(diagnostics mode) advance and it gave some good bottom response for 98+ ron.

Clutch
I normally launch at 2k, 2.5k max. I try to be conservitive on the clutch and drive train as its a daily driver. You might want to look at a cermaic type clutch for 3k+

I've never heard of the coolant bypass whats the theory on this?

[camrygt?]

i'm guessing the coolant bypass is two little hoses pumping coolant through the throttle body to stop them freezing open. Take them off, block them up and the inlet temps will drop a little

[StuC]

hows about getting some suspension work too - would be better to have the ability to handle and it would be a much better investment sticking the money intot hat instead of trying to get some power out of the 2l NA for the time being

[RWDboy]

2. Some performance fuels have extra additives that increase their calorific content (ie more energy) but most octane boosters are not going to improve your HP at all ... especially given that the 2nd gen 3SGE doesn't have any knock sensor equipment and probably will change nothing at all (in terms of mapping) if you run a higher octane petrol.
3. Tyre pressures depends on what tyre you run, given that it's a hillclimb you probably have little hope of being able to 'optimise' the pressure given that they probably won't even reach their operating temperature in time.

To be honest though, I'd recommend just working on your driving more than anything else. You could probably gain a second per km easier by working on your own performance rather than trying to scramble for one or two tenths of a second per km by fiddling with those other things.

[Lonewolf]

tyre pressures, stock would probably be about 30f 32r or something, maybe 28f 30r personally i would set about 34/5f 36/7r, mr2 usually run a couple of psi high in the rear the same way ff car run higher in the front.

launch from what ever in an m2, you won't wheelspin on a stock 3sge, at best guess i would say about 3000 ish, be warned your clutch better be strong though, if you drop it in an mr2 you will most likely slip your clutch rather than spin your wheels, it the problem with having soo much traction on the rear wheels trying to push the car.

yeah what would an intake gasket and crank pulley do???

hiclones are bs, they become a restriction in your intake letting less air past the mass

This intake gasket is phenolic laminate (insulant) so the intake manifold wont heat up from the cyl head and in turn heat the intake mix up, but can only get it for tubs, and couldnt be bothered making one up. And its harardous.

Lightweight pulley, less mass to accelerate, car revs easier, should pull better at low rpm (light a lightweight flywheel, but not as noticable.) Same deal here, have only found turbo ones..

Car got a new clutch, flywheel, master cyl and fluid. There is NO slip (even from a 6k launch in the wet, it bit, and wheel did 2 skips then gripped). I know its bad for the clutch but it did an insane pull when i held it at 6k and kept it above 5k as i let the clutch out, good for straight line accel, only time its actually wheelspun relitively easy is when doing that on a corner in the wet, whats wierder, is that i held the throttle on and it -wasnt oversteering (my volvo has bad oversteer) was slightly understeering.

Fronts are 205/50/15
Rears are 225/50/15

[Lonewolf]

2. Some performance fuels have extra additives that increase their calorific content (ie more energy) but most octane boosters are not going to improve your HP at all ... especially given that the 2nd gen 3SGE doesn't have any knock sensor equipment and probably will change nothing at all (in terms of mapping) if you run a higher octane petrol.
3. Tyre pressures depends on what tyre you run, given that it's a hillclimb you probably have little hope of being able to 'optimise' the pressure given that they probably won't even reach their operating temperature in time.

To be honest though, I'd recommend just working on your driving more than anything else. You could probably gain a second per km easier by working on your own performance rather than trying to scramble for one or two tenths of a second per km by fiddling with those other things.

I'd always been a skeptic of the octane boosters (in goes in the same catagory as slick 50), but had to ask.
Its pretty hard to get driver training in, last year i spent more time at motorsports event trying out different approaches to various challenges and only seriously competing at sealed surface events. I've been able to take 4th out of 50 when the competition consists of hold-on utes, a silvia, 200sx, skyline, wrx, and more welded diff datto's than u can shake a stick at, And I even managed a fastest time on one of the courses. I must say i know a few ways not to take a corner, especially if its muddy, off camber and you have road tyres on!!!

[Bahnugget]

mate if you've got a clutch that can hold out against 6K launches i'd be very careful with your launching, theres always gunna be a weak link somewhere, and if its not your clutch, its goign to be your gearbox, or your CV's.. so take it easy..

[RWDboy]

Well hopefully you get a bit of wheelspin to reduce the shock to the transmission system.

But yeah, that's something that you do have to be aware of ... you'd rather be replacing clutches than gearboxes, so sometimes it's good to have a clutch that wears well, but will slip a little when overly provoked.

[NeoNasty]

Another trick you can try is run some injector clean through your engine. $10 and just add it to your tank. I was having pinging problems so Ive run some of that through it, and not only has it helped stop that problem, but the engine is running better than ever, smoother and more pick up.

for $10 you cant go wrong.