4A-GE diag. code 6 & 11 and a problem.

[Bio89]

Guys i dont speak english pretty good (i can understand it), i speak spanish.

Got a problem on a 4AGE 16V T-VIS Engine of my AE82 FX16 GT-S, it haves AFM (like this one http://i323.photobucket.com/albums/n...geParts012.jpg )
Ok heres the problem... its when i start the car in the mornings i try to start it and it takes a long it does like if started but stills cranking and cranking most of the time takes like 30 - 40 seconds to start the car... and when the engine its already hot takes like 10 - 1 5 seconds, and i wanna know whats the problem, i mean to make the car start faster like normal, i realy dont know whats the problem... it does something like showed on this video min 1:06 to 1:19


Already changed spark plugs, the wires, fixed and set the EGR like the manual (it was a pretty hard thing :S ) changed the fuel filter, the fuel line, changed some water lines because they were craked, the water by-pass, took out and cleaned all the sensors, timings cheked with the manual, all the fuses are good, made a cleaning of the injector a couple months ago, checked all the Ohms of relays, engine, injectors, cold start injector, temp sensors, the coil pack, it haves a great spark, it doesnt blows any kind of smoke when its on or when startin, and almost everything was ok..

Then i started the diagnostic test, shorting the terminals, and i did the test and found code 6 and code 11, need help on how to fix this codes, i dont like much the engine light always on in my dash..

[CraigD]

Hard to start in the mornings sounds like either the fuel pressure reg not holding the fuel and letting it go back to the tank or the fuel pump could be bleeding back into the tank.


Cheers Craig

[4th surf]

Others may disagree but your timing appears out which code 6 (RPM) and 11 (ECU/Switch) relate to. in the video just as you start to crank she appears to be one tooth out in the cam timing but I also think that the distributor may be a tooth out (if not more). I'd re-check both the valve and ignition timing and go from there. Once corrected and codes cleared she should fire up and run nicely.

Codes http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/

[Bio89]

Havent changed the fuel pressure regulator, got 3 or 4 more, gotta try switching it, and what you mean by the fuel pump its bleeding back to the tank? (sorry if i dont understand at 1rst)

ive checked the timing they were pretty good, but i didnt check the distribuitor i dont know much about it already, but when i was setting the time on the TDC the rotor was ready to fire up the 1rst spark plug, dont know if thats the correct thing, but if you can explain it to me on what to do i can go ahead and try it. (the video i showed its not my motor, it does something similar to that, but on mine the timing its good.)

and for the code 11 what could i do?

just to mention i dont want to take out the motor and clear that, i want to take out those codes w/o taking the motor out... because its the daily car.

heres the video of the error codes, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oW66m...&feature=g-upl

[JDM hachi]

Looking at where your rotor button is pointing when at tdc, I'd say that that position is not correct, did you line up the notches/grooves on the distributor shaft when you installed it? It's probably one tooth out there. my na 4age still started and ran (poorly)with the wrong timing, but when I found it was one tooth out at the distributor, changed it and it ran like a dream.

matty.

[Bio89]

JDM hachi, the timing on the pulleys and crank its good, but i dit not check up the distribuitor, because i dont know how to set it, the car starts and runs good, but the only problem its when starting it, i dont know already much of that notches or groves on the distribuitor but if you can help me and give me the steps to do it i can go ahead and set it on the correct way, and see what happens

[JP]

you wont be able to set the base timing correctly until you get rid of the fault codes anyway. the 11 is most likely caused by the TPS idle switch being out of adjustment, code 6 will be there because of the excessive cranking.

Do a search for the 4age service manual pdf's, follow the instructions on installing the distributor and then setting the base timing after bridging the diags terminals.

[Bio89]

The TPS its good, i have like 4 more, over there, but they all are in good shape, sooo to get rid of the fault code number 6 i need to bride the terminals like doing the diagnostic mode, and set the timing all i mean pulleys, crank and distribuitor, and then go ahead and try starting the motor? or just acc mode and see if code blinks up?
for the 11 code, what you guys think i need to check? got no air leaks on the AFM and the throttle body, but the air con. valve the upper line blows alot of air and it sounds like it haves a leak but i took it out and no its good, but it sucks air very hard, and the air con its off, its that ok?


i have the 4age pdf"s but i dont understand them very good, for me its more easy to see real pics with the settings that needs to be and that way i can use the pic and the info on the PDF to do it.

when i set the timing on the crank and pulleys i didnt brided the diagnostic mode, maybe thats why i still havin that problem? and yeah i get excessive cranking :/ thats what i want to solve too

[Bio89]

plz help me, if its the distribuitor post videos or pics when you took out the dizzy and if i need to bleed out all the engine oil or not, i need like a guide so i can follow it and go on try and see what happens with the starting issue and if it solves a Error

[jondee86]

Only a drop or two of oil will come out when you remove the distributor. Just have some rags nearby to catch the drops.

Cheers... jondee86

Hmmm... seems that if you right click the image, and select "view image" you can see a larger version.

[jondee86]

Video of engine cranking seems that the engine has no compression, so most likely a cam timing error. Not related to your hard starting problem.

Suggest you try this. After the car has been parked up for a few hours, try running the fuel pump for a few seconds before you crank the engine. You can do this by jumping (connecting with a short temporary wire) the B+ and FP pins in the diagnostic box, if you have a diagnostic box.

If no diagnostic box (= connector = plug with cover), then jumper the FP test plug (= 2-pin yellow plug hanging off the engine harness wiring. With the test plug jumpered, push the moveable flap inside the AFM open with your finger, and turn the key to the ON position (not cranking). Helps to have really long arms or a friend to help you

After the FP has run for a few seconds, disconnect the jumper wires and try to start the engine. If it starts immediately, you have a fuel drain back problem as suggested above. Probably the check valve in the fuel pump is faulty or jammed open with a small piece of debris.

Cheers... jondee86

[Bio89]

Jondee the one with the hitler hearing music pic? xD have been reading lots of your answers helps me to know more !!! if its you hi wanted to know you xD

ok on the pic i have done till the 2nd pic, i havent took out the dizzy on the pic 3, i have lined the camshafts and the crankshaft, and check the dizzy rotor, but didnt take it out hehehe
all i need to see if the dots marked are in line and thats all? if the dot its at the back it would cause problems?

short the fuel pump and open full or a bit the AFM, on position, wait..... unshort the fuel pump and crank, oh for the faulty pump i get 22-25psis of pressure S: on the pump when i check that but i forgot to write it down here, talk with a friend with a ae86 and he told me he had the same prob but a bit less than me, and he just changed the fuel pump and now fires pretty fast.!, i have read the manual and sais 4ages need like 35-55 psis on fuel pressure, and i was like well 25 and the min its 35 i need 10more.... when i first start the car i push the gas pedal and fires more faster now in secons but less time than 30 - 40secs...

i have been checking for a pump so buy and change it but need to be sure first because theyre not too cheap heheh, if you know theres one GOOD, CHEAP and ideal for 4age plz give me the link so i can see and buy it (beacuse autozones cheaper its at 118 + tax)

Thx Jon.!!!

[jondee86]

Reggae Rulz Yes, you need good fuel pressure = new pump. If you only have 25 psi your fuel mixture will be too lean for the engine to fire. You have to crank and crank and crank until there is finally enough fuel collected inside the engine to ignite. After that the engine will still be running lean and your spark plugs will be white like snow Don't worry about messing with the timing until you have good fuel pressure... I think it will solve the problem.

Easy enough to check... just try firing the engine up while squirting a little starting fluid up the air intake. If it fires straight away, you definitely have a fuel pressure problem.

Cheers... jondee86

[Bio89]

hahaha then you are, nice to know you haha you always have the answer, yeah im working on buyin a new pump so i can get the pressure the engine needs... got 25psis so its way bad..., and yes thats the problem i have i crank and crank and crank until it acumulates the pressure and fires, sometime i hit the gas pedal and that helps a bit, hmm need to check that one the spark plugs (good tip ) hehe yeah i like learning more and more about the engine because im considering to have it for my entire life (if i can of course)

i did a test, spray some carb cleaner on the maniful and it start in seconds (maybe thats what you mean on the starting fluid) so that means my fuel pump its faulty but stills working thats good haha because i use the car, but its time to give it what it needs

i got a question, what controles the fuel pump? i mean fuel pump when it gets energy pump the max pressure? theres a regulator on the pump? ( i know about the fuel rail one ) but theres another one? or it depends on the energy you give it to regulate the pressure?
Like if i buy a new one with MAX PSIs at 100, and i put it and put the key in the on position (wothout crank) the pressure will be at 100? on the line and on the pressure regulador holding at the 40-55psis ???

[jondee86]

A fuel pump in good condition will pump to about 75psi if you block the outlet. The Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) will hold the fuel rail pressure around 40psi varying with manifold vacuum. If you have a way to check the pressure in the rail, try this test. Just to be sure your pump is no good, use pliers to squeeze the return fuel hose closed where it leaves the FPR. If you block that hose and the pressure still does not go any higher than 25psi, your pump is definitely not doing the job. Also, chances are there will not be any gas in the return line (return line from the FPR will be dry).

Might be worth pulling the pump out (means dropping the fuel tank) and check that the sock filter on the pump inlet is not clogged. Also check the hose that connects the outlet side of the pump inside the tank has not split.

The regulator will be fine. The pump only makes as much pressure as the FPR setting. Just don't buy a pump that flows five times as much gas as the stock pump !!

Cheers... jondee86

PS: I visited Ensenada once... had the best Margaritas and fish Tacos :-P