The Witzl and myself are going down this path, YelloRolla is building the engines for us. Custom rods and forged pistons, 8.5:1 compression, ARP fasteners everywhere, o-ringed block.
Hi guys,
Just wanting to know what specs i should give the engine builder if im planning to build an rg to handle 30psi? eg, compression ratio, bottom end work needing to be done etc etc.
Any help would be great as the engine is going to be rebuilt over the next few weeks. I'm aiming at the 5k mark for the rebuild at the moment but if its more then so be it.
Thanks in advance guys.
The Witzl and myself are going down this path, YelloRolla is building the engines for us. Custom rods and forged pistons, 8.5:1 compression, ARP fasteners everywhere, o-ringed block.
Norbie!
www.norbie.net
Just out of interest Norbs, roughly how much is that gonna cost?
1977 RA35 Celica GT - I4 | 2007 GSV40R Aurion - V6
Don't live life being scared of death, live in the fear of not truly living. RP 2012
Is that including the Turbo and Manifold?Originally Posted by LTJET
I think I've already spent $3-4k and the machining/assembly hasn't even started.Originally Posted by 7M-GTE MX73
Norbie!
www.norbie.net
My 3T-GTE had about $4k spent on it, then another $3k or so for the computer and tuning. I was lucky and picked it up after all the work was already done and paid for
Stock rods will take this as long as you keep the revs sensible, just destress and shotpeen. Basic engine prep like cross drill crank, balancing etc. Head studs are a must and would suggest o-ringed block would be a good idea.Originally Posted by LTJET
Comp ratio will largely depend on the fuel you intend to run and how sophisticated your ECU is but i would say 8 to 8.5:1 is a good compromise.
Lily Simpson 6.7.2010
R.I.P.
I guess i should tell you what i have to begin with which should help a little:
T3 turbo and manifold to suit 18RG
Copper head gasket
Strengthened head studs (Bought in a group buy over 2 years ago now)
an 18RGEU and an 18RGU
All stock EFI gear from an 18RGEU
and just recently bought some 440cc 7MGTE injectors.
As you can tell I've been planning this build for a little while as i started collecting bits and pieces from about 2 years ago. I'm looking at about $5k mark or less (dreaming but hey) for just the bottom end basically with forged pistons. Is this realistic? I know the forgies are $1k-1100 so about 4k for the engine or is this optimistic? :|
The above is already at about 3.5k without touching any part of the engine... which is what i planned to spend on turboing the engine originally. hehehe. Thank god for good paying jobs.
Last edited by LTJET; 19-10-2007 at 11:33 PM.
Oh and as for fuel im planning on just stock unleaded/unleaded95/98 - Anything readily available at the pump.
edit: The ECU is an Injec EM1 - Any comments/reviews on this ECU? I read somewhere it was good for upto 10PSI which is good enough for me for a start.
Last edited by LTJET; 19-10-2007 at 11:44 PM.
we have done plenty of these engines, in fact, 3 in the last 2 weeks, with 1 being shipped to WA. they are coming out of the wood-work. its easy to spend $5k to professionally rebuild any engine with forged pistons, balanced etc, let alone rods or turbo. We put a lot of effort into measuring and grinding cranks on these engines as they are renowned for oil pressure problems from folk just tossing in fixed size bearings on an old crank. The engines really need precision work to keep the oil pressure over a long time of hard use. Another problem is the cam & buckets often has excess clearances in the head, and you cant stop rattles. Some we can economically repair, others are tossed out. The better engines with O ringed blocks, special rods, nitrided crank etc., approach $10k. I am about to start on one with a with a modified 22R crank and long rods/short pistons. Some parts for these are getting very hard to find, eg cast oversized pistons, RG oil pumps. anyone interested can PM me as I only check these posts occassionally. hope this info is of use.
OK forget 30psi thenOriginally Posted by LTJET
Neither your turbo, pump fuel or those injectors will support 30psi
Aim for more like 180rwkw and you should be right with what you have...will take alot more than 10psi though.
Lily Simpson 6.7.2010
R.I.P.
I know the turbo and injectors won't cope with 30psi but i'm not going to build an engine to handle between 10 and 20psi only to rebuild it later on when i do want to run 30psi . Also what fuel would you suggest me to be running? Thanks for the help guys. I appreciate it.
ditch the copper head gasket, and grab a multi layered steel item (it's work the extra $20 )
Unless it's track only or you've got a real deep pocket, built/tune it to run on 98 octane pump fuel. as you can get it everywhere. It's easy enough to build and tune a motor to make bid power on 102 octane race fuel, but at $100 for 20L drums. well the decision is yours.
Value can be found in Autronics, Haltech's and Wolf V4/5's as far as computers are concerned. Microtechs for the more budget and less fuel concious minded. Just get rid of that stupid AFM
Ditch the 7M injectors (someone with a CA18 will buy them on NS) and grab a set of RX7 S4/S5 injectors (S5 plugs are slightly different, but everyone has a set.) They are 500 and 550cc repectivly. can be had for as little $150 with plugs.
Throw us some specs on the turbo. There are T3 units from 250HP to 700HP.
Cheers
Jordan
Past rides: 86 Hilux, 3x ke55 rollas's (2coupes,) 5th Gen GT4 x2, RA28, TA22 x3, KE10, P610 datto, RT40 corona x3, RT132, MX13
Currrent: , CA-A22 Celica living life as a Sports Sedan, 2000model ST215W Caldina GT-T manual, RT40 corona.
The T3 is from a VL turbo and in pretty good nick as it looks like its been rebuilt with very very little shaft play on either side. Not sure about the rated power these came out with but im sure my mate ran at least 15psi through one on his VL. I'll get some more specs when i get a chance. I'm most likely going to run upto 15psi for a little while but i want to build the engine to handle 30psi for future upgrades.
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