3T-GTE suddenly cuts out

[loki]

hi fellas
just wondering if im correct or not but the problem im getting atm is after a drive maybe 10-20 mins roughly the pedal response goes out the window and revs steadily drop till she stalls and wont start up again in a hurry, but after leaving it sit/cool?? and many attempts to restart it comes alive again
im thinkin the spark plugs which i will go and change with another set of Stock nippondenso plugs, but without a boost controller i really shouldnt be getting above 8-9psi right? and seems to leak out to ~12 after a good while, and could it be this killing the plugs?
let me know fellas im dyin to solve this problem.. getting a boost controller to bring the leak down to stock lvls...
cheers

[WDE_BDY]

Its not something like your fuel tanking not venting properly and getting under suction? Try removing the cap when it does it next and see if it starts straight up.

Callum

[loki]

will do mate, btw where is the vent normally?

[EldarO]

sounds like either that, or your fuels boiling?!??!

Elmo.

[loki]

hmm well should i wrap the fuel filter in something to keep heat down?

well not sure if it was the plugs but i changed them anyways ahha, old ones were covered in oil badly, wat can cause this??

keep the suggestions coming ill do them all..

[Ta22boy]

hey hows it going?
if your plugs are fouled up with oil, normally means you have a leaking cam cover, or its your oil control ring starting to let go and pushing the oil past the pistons.
Also unless you have you filter somewhere extremely stupid, underbonnet temps wont cause fuel to boil and i can think of no other reason for fuel to boil.
And if you had faulty plugs, it would miss all the time or at least under load....other things to look at might be all the electrics, as i know when some components heat up, they expand sometimes causing a faulty connection and then only after it cools right down does it return to running as normal until she is hot again.
Also if your overboost pressure switch is still connected, once it reaches past 0.7 bar (i think thats about 9.8psi) it should try to cut fuel, but that doesnt explain the not starting again until its cold....
Sorry i couldnt be of more help, but post up some more info about whats going on after you try a few things and we can go from there....

Cheers
Scott

[loki]

cheers fellas for the help, well since ive put the new plugs in started fine but i noticed when its started and u tap the accel it chuggs and revs drop/misses im sure, but leave it ~1min this goes away? and when its warmed every now and then i notice a miss here n there

should i be doing sum other tests? well in the mean time ill go over the elex sort this wiring out

ta fellas

[3jcelica]

Here are some other tests you can try.

I assume you are using the standard efi.

check the resistance of the collent temp sensor here is the specs
deg ohms
-10 7,000-12,000
20 2,000-3,000
50 700-1,000
80 200-400
85 + Less than 200

Check for air leakage

A miss every now and then may be caused by the ignition system , check connections, and make sure all wiring is in good condition.

A miss at startup may indicate that your cold start and cranking circuit may not be working properly. Failue of a cold start system may results in over-rich conditions
when the engine is hot or rough idling / no start conditions when the engine is very cold.

Test using the following procedure

Thermo time switch (next to the coolent sensor but is slightly larger)

The engine must be completely cold to conduct this test. It is easier to perform this test when the ambient air temperature is less than 26 degrees. Disconnect connector from cold start injector. Install a test light or voltmeter to the connector. Operate the starter and note that the thermo time switch should be on for 1 to 8 seconds while the engine is colder than 35 degrees . Above 35 degrees the sensor will not trip.

Cold Start Injector

The engine must be completely cold to conduct this test. It is easier to perform this test when the ambient air temperature is less than 26 degrees. Unbolt the cold start injector from the intake plenum (leave it still connected to fuel) and place the tip in a container. Operator the starter. The injector should spray for 1-8 seconds or while the engine coolant is under 35 degrees. The injector should have a fine misting spray, not a drip. If the valve fails to shut off or never sprays replace the injector.

It is also worth while checking the mixture when you are driving or experiencing these problems if you have a narrow band 02 installed look for a voltage on this to ground of about 0.5v for 14.7:1 air fuel ratio.

You often see ignition modules failing under temperature (not excessive but under bonnet temps) and then working fine at normal temps. I have heard of people placing them in a cup of ice(constantly toping them up) on a long trip to get them home. Unfortunately it is intermintent and only happens under heat.

Roger

[Ta2272]

Loki i had the same problem with my 2tg when i installed EFI, exactly the same problem how it would die after say 10 mins of driving.

I found out it weas my tachometer the old tacho was cutting out the electronic ignition.

Have you got a tacho connected? if so disconect it its easy should just be one or 2 wires on and around your coil.

Hope this helps.

Jason

[loki]

the standard electric tachometer is standard only got a boost gauge but was fine when i was installed months back,
ill check those sensors soon thx fellas