1UZ into MA61 / MZ10 Guide.

[CrUZida]

Hey, I'm slack, but this thread needs to be done.
I'm just copying Joorsh's thread and changing it to suit 1UZ's

• Find a front sump. The 1UZ engine won't clear the crossmember with other sumps, so you'll need to switch to a front sump - LS400/Celsiors and '92-on Crowns have front sumps.
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• Change the timing belt/bearings, drive belt, water pump, sparks plugs/leads/rotors/caps, thermostat, and anything else that looks munted or old. Make sure you do it before you put the engine in the car! If you can't afford to change any of these items, then you shouldn't be doing a damn engine conversion! If you can, change the front main, rear main and cam seals too. - will cost ~$1000ish to replace everything
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• If you have an engine vibration dampener, remove it. You will also need to angle-grind the mount that it sits on, right back to the crossmember. Not all MA61's had this vibration dampener thing. If you're not sure what to look for, then pull the engine out of the car. Once the engine is out, it'll be the thing sitting in the middle of your engine bay that looks like a penis.
  No, really, I'm not kidding.
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• You will need new engine mounts. At this stage available from me. Stock rubber dampeners/mounts can be used, although recommended you buy new ones ($160/pr from Mackay)
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• You will need to adjust your throttle cable. It may be able to be reused, depending on what motor was originally in there (1GE, 1GGE, 5ME, 5MGE, 6MGE, MTEU, etc).
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• You can use existing high-pressure power steering line. (the one that runs to the rack). Probably worth getting them rebuilt.
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• The UZS131 (89-91) Crown log headers will come closest to fitting. Drivers side will still require mods to clear steering column. Custom extractors are definitely the way to go if you aren't turboing.
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• The 1UZ ECU can be squeezed in behind the glovebox and it's a damn tight fight. Some persuading is definitely required. The loom can also be fit through the standard firewall hole, but you need to remove the ruuber grommet altogether, and even so it's a damn tight fit - but possible.(unconfirmed)
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• If you want aircon, you will need to have metal lines fabricated to go to and from the compressor. All other lines should be OK. You'll need a front sump style aircon compressor. Others will not clear dipstick tube.
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• You'll need a front sump style oil filter mount. Others will not clear swaybar/crossmember.
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• Get a power steering cooler. Nothing flash - just pilfer one off a crown or something. Make sure you don't hook it up in line with the pressurised side! If you don't get a power steering cooler, budget for buying a new steering rack every 6-12 months.
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• You will need a gearbox bellhousing/clutch/flywheel. Many places to get this from now, I suggest a search. CRS and Dellow are the main suppliers. Auto tranny crossmembers are a perfect fit for the W5x boxes. MA70 shifter position is the one you want.
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• The tailshaft should still fit provided your car was manual - but will need to be lengthened ~2" if using my mounts.
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• Tacho will work fine (not sure about MTEU dash), but will read incorrectly (1UZ puts out 4cyl's worth of pulses), so will need to be adjusted or a box of tricks installed.
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• Get a triple core radiator if you want to give your car some stick - at minimum get the original one cleaned. Also get the inlet/outlets resized to match engine. 1UZ is 2 or 3mm bigger than M/JZ.
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• The standard 1UZ clutch fan is absoltuely fine but only comes with UZS131 Crown motors. All others have the hydraulic fan which is the bomb if you can be bothered installing it properly. Failing those 2 points, EL/AU thermos are a perfect fit and work well with Tridon temp switches.
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• You will need new fuel lines, and also to fab up a mount for a fuel filter. Different 1UZ's have the fuel inlet/outlet in different places.
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• Alternator will plug in for ex-M powered cars, will need mods for ex-G powered ones.
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• If you want to pass engineering, you'll also need an unleaded fuel filler for the petrol tank.

At the end of the day its your call whether you get a half cut, or just an engine/loom package.
Front sump/dipstick/pickup/baffle is needed.
Front sump oil filter bracket is needed - may only be $100ish new.
Front sump aircon compressor is needed.
UZS131 Crown clutch fan/bracket is easiest to use.
UZS131 Crown auto box is easiest to use (has slip yoke as opposed to 3 prongs, may need different bellhousing)


Of course all the standard upgrades are highly recommended.
Fuel pump, brakes, suspension, diff LSD, tyres, etc.


Umm, I think that will do for the moment.
Anything major I've missed?

[brett_celicacoupe]

firewall clearance?

[CrUZida]

About 4", if not more.

[lee3671987]

any reccomendation on the lsd diff and the suspension?

[CrUZida]

That entirely depends on your plans for the car. (drag, drift, daily, circuit, motorkhana, etc)

[lee3671987]

drift.....any other way besides converting it to s13 coilovers?

[CrUZida]

Why not start a thread in the tech section ?

[mullett]

Good write up man, you've done a few 1UZ conversions now, what kind of a budget is it usually working out to be to do it with the above-mentioned bits? And what's the wiring like? I know a friend is having real problems sorting out the wiring on his 1UZ conversion, but that's got a lot to do with a mangled loom. If you get one intact (IE a front sump front cut), is there much to it?

-RM.

[CrUZida]

Nah, wiring is piss easy, especially in an MA61/MZ10, coz there is nothing thats stops working when you remove the stock engine loom (with the MA70 the heater tap, the gearbox abs sensor and the PPS solenoid are all part of the engine loom).

The Celsior loom requires a bit of mods, but thats only coz there isn't a plug near the fusebox which carries all the B+, BATT, M-REL signals. In the Celsior thats part of the dash loom.

To put a 1UZ in (on the cheap) with an auto, stock headers, small exhaust, stock ecu, there is no reason why you couldn't do it for $4-5k, even less if you are cheap.

To do it 'properly', with a manual, custom extractors, proper exhaust, aftermarket ecu, all ready for mods, then you are looking at more like $10k (exhaust $2k+, ecu $2k+, manual $2k ish depending on which box, and what parts you already have)

And that doesn't include the usual suspension, brakes, engineering, etc

[BEVANI]

Nah, wiring is piss easy, especially in an MA61/MZ10, coz there is nothing thats stops working when you remove the stock engine loom.

awesome write up but leaves me thinkin... this is not uz related and correct me if im wrong but would this work with the 1j into ma61 conversion? i know there is a couple of bits that need to be modified but the loom itself (ecu to motor) is stand alone and not "spliced" into the other harnesses?

[CrUZida]

Thought I'd add this link to this thread incase anyone is thinking of doing the conversion.
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/v-e...-file-dxf.html

[CrUZida]

These links will also prove useful
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/v-e...-file-dxf.html
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/v-e...-file-dxf.html

[TE72_1800T]

hey mate hows it going
so with these mounts if using a w5x box will it bring the box foward?

[CrUZida]

Yes, about 2"

[TE72_1800T]

is there anyway to get around this? is there enough clearance for the motor be mounted 2inches further back? im using a w57 from an ra60 at the moment. in an ma61. i guess using an ma70 shifter fork and shifter housing if i could find one. i just converted my ma61 to manual using a w57 from a ra60 dont really want to have to buy another gearbox.