Great info, +rep!
Hi guys,
I pulled the 1JZ ECU apart on Sunday to replace the dodgy brown Nichicon capacitors that are the main flaw with this ECU. Most are leaking by now, and it is hard to spot the leaks without de-soldering them from the board.
Most of mine were shot, so I replaced them all. Check out the corrosion on the tracks caused by the leaks! Had to do a few repairs to the tracks. I replaced them with some black capacitors from Jaycar of the same ratings.
If you want to do this and have a steady hand, the capacitors you will need are:
33uf, 35V
15uf, 35V
47uf, 63V
220uf, 10V
100uf, 10V
I couldn't find a 15uF capacitor anywhere, so I used a 10uF and a 4.7uF in parallel and it works fine. Apparently you can get a 15uF from a 7M ECU if you have one hanging around. Better check it is not a Nichicon capacitor though!
The rare capacitor:
Replaced...see underneath! Pic taken before I soldered the other capacitor in parallel with it.
Check out the corrosion on the tracks! One capacitor already replaced, just about to put the other one into that space after cleaning the area with metho.
Pretty stuffed capacitor!
Remember that the capacitors are polarised, ie they only fit around one way.
I found the best trick for removing the existing capacitors was to apply MORE solder to the terminals underneath, to get the whole lot to melt. The capacitors are soldered below AND above in many cases, so be careful not to damage the tracks on the circuit board when lifting them off the board.
Car seems to perform slightly better on cold starts now, and seemed a bit more peppy when I took it for a test drive. Could be the placebo effect though It was a relief when the car started after all that soldering work, as I was pretty worried about those tracks!
I'd advise all of you to check your capacitors ASAP before the leakage goes too far and strands you somewhere.
Last edited by Ribfeast; 02-07-2019 at 09:18 AM.
1989 Toyota Cressida GLX 1JZGTE twin turbo *SOLD*
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2847
12.36 @ 111mph on eBay "China" CT12A steelies
244rwkw / 328hp @ 18psi
Great info, +rep!
Norbie!
www.norbie.net
+ lots of rep cos you are using Jaycar capacitors
Side note - there is no problem with using a higher voltage capacitor. The voltage is just the limit that the capacitor can take. However higher voltage caps are usually larger in size, so might be a little harder to fit.
...... butt scratcher?!
The best capacitors now days are actually Nichicon as well as Rubycon and Panasonic.
I tend to use the Nichicon Fine Gold (FG) series for audio, Rubycon ZL series for power supplies, motherboards and other applications where a high ripple current is present (your ECU will benefit from these) and Panasonic for other general use.
The Rubycon ZL series are among the best available, and can be sourced from www.rsaustralia.com for a reasonable price.
ribfeast, awesome write up, but im still in awe at all of your pics, i cant beleive how clear they are, you must have one hell of a camera!
ive pulled my ECU apart and i dont need new caps thankfully guess im one of the lucky ones.
Elmo.
Cheers guys
I had to go higher voltage on some due to availability, I was mainly worried about whether it affected the discharge characteristics of the capacitors (eg slower/faster etc). Seems to run ok though
Camera used was my Canon 350D 8 megapixel, stock lens.
It's just so hard to know whether your caps are stuffed, because by the time the leaks are visible without removing the caps, it is often too late.
Sounds like the Rubycon ZL caps might be the go, cheers Terra!
1989 Toyota Cressida GLX 1JZGTE twin turbo *SOLD*
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2847
12.36 @ 111mph on eBay "China" CT12A steelies
244rwkw / 328hp @ 18psi
Yea, ZL series are VERY highly regarded in the capacitor replacement 'scene'. People have reported higher stable overclocks with their motherboards upon replacing them.
Re. the higher voltages, it is generally better to go the highest voltage you can afford and fit (within reason) as the higher voltage rating caps are more consistent and stable in their operation. They also often have lower ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance) which is usually a good thing too.
The larger physical size also means there is more electrolyte in the can, so it won't dry out so quick.
And then there's the fact that you are simply stressing the cap that much less.
All in all, a good thing.
What voltage were the 4.7 and 10uf caps you used in parallel? Did you source 35V or did you go with 50V?
I sourced all the others from Farnell, have done 3 ecu's now, C109 and C805 were leaking the worst on all three ECU's.
I can't remember the voltage offhand, they were 35V or higher though. They don't have to match voltages with each other, they just need to have a capacitance that adds up to as close to 15uF as possible.
Looks like those two are the most likely to leak badly.
I should have taken photos of the other ones I replaced, oh well
1989 Toyota Cressida GLX 1JZGTE twin turbo *SOLD*
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2847
12.36 @ 111mph on eBay "China" CT12A steelies
244rwkw / 328hp @ 18psi
I'll take some pics of the ones I've removed later and post them up... ugly mess for most of them.
Nice writeup and excellent pics mate!
Any pics of repaired tracks, just wondering how you go about doing this...
Just clean them up with metho as best as possible, and run solder along them. May even need treatment with sandpaper to cut through the corrosion. Worst case scenario you can just solder a thin wire in place of the track, fiddly though with surface mount components involved.
I'll be keen to see your pics JP, I'd be guessing those caps are a lot messier than mine!
1989 Toyota Cressida GLX 1JZGTE twin turbo *SOLD*
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2847
12.36 @ 111mph on eBay "China" CT12A steelies
244rwkw / 328hp @ 18psi
Wow those are rooted! Looks like you did them just in time
1989 Toyota Cressida GLX 1JZGTE twin turbo *SOLD*
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2847
12.36 @ 111mph on eBay "China" CT12A steelies
244rwkw / 328hp @ 18psi
two of the ECU's were dead, fire but no idle, flagged a code 14 for ignition. Work fine after cap replacement.
On one if you leave the car off for 5 mins, it would start and idle for 30sec and then die cleanly with a code 14, if you try to restart straight away it wouldn't fire at all.
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