So if I use the 18R hollow dowels (and I suspect the 22R block is machined to take them)..
They don't seem to be available from Toyota, so any ideas on getting them out in serviceable condition, or aftermarket alternatives?
My RN46's 18R-C died and I am trying to fit a 22R in its place ('86 22R-E converted to carb)
Couple of major issues I'm having.
The 18R used two circa 12mm hollow dowels around two of the side bellhousing bolts to bolt up. The 22R isn't bored for these dowels and has one ~10x20mm pin in the passenger side about halfway up and another in between the top bolts.
The 18R bellhousing is removable but I believe it is not the same as W5#/G5# ones. It is blank where the 22R has pins.
Is there any accurate way to get the bellhousing bored for the pins? Its been suggested I use the 22R rear plate as a template, but I can't see how this will be any more accurate than trying to mount it up without the dowels, since all the machinist could line it up to would be the bolt holes in the plate?
I've tried fitting it up without dowels and it seems ok but I am not sold on the idea. I will be pulling it back out before I try running it anyway because...
...With the new clutch kit to suit 22R in, the clutch is at the end of the adjustment and really only begins disengaging with the pedal on the firewall. I haven't bled it yet, but the pedal doesn't feel spongy, just nothing happening until its almost all the way in.
I was not able to use the new throwout bearing assembly as it mounts differently (clips around fork) to the ex-18R one which has U-shaped clips with a hooked end which push into the top of the (cast) fork and clips into the front of the carrier (hooked end). Mine has the cast clutch fork and slave with a return spring.
I see there is also a plate clutch fork which uses the other type of throwout carrier, and two lengths of pivot pin...would that be what I need?
Argh!
So if I use the 18R hollow dowels (and I suspect the 22R block is machined to take them)..
They don't seem to be available from Toyota, so any ideas on getting them out in serviceable condition, or aftermarket alternatives?
You could try getting the hollow dowels out by filling the hole with grease and then find a bolt that is a neat fit in the hole. Then you hit the bolt in with a hammer so the grease pushes the hollow dowel out. This method used to work for getting the brass spigot bushes out of old holden crankshafts.
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