As always, the best approach is to speak with your local clutch specialist, discuss your intended application and go with what they recommend. In my experience you get a much better result than picking an off-the-shelf kit and hoping for the best.
Hi,
It depends on how much power your engine will be making and how you drive the car. If it's making only a bit more power and you just want it for a daily drive, then the stock clutch will handle the job.
If you want to start dropping the clutch on a revving engine and stuff like that, then maybe look for something a bit more robust... as well as looking at upgrading your diff, gearbox etc.
seeyuzz
river
The thinking man's clown and the drinking woman's sex symbol
RA25GT - There is no substitute | 18R-G - Toyota's Dependable Masterpiece
Toymods Car Club Treasurer, assistant Historic Plate Registrar & Forums Admin
As always, the best approach is to speak with your local clutch specialist, discuss your intended application and go with what they recommend. In my experience you get a much better result than picking an off-the-shelf kit and hoping for the best.
Norbie!
www.norbie.net
Oh ok thanks. Iv found a exedy one pretty cheap so i mite just give that ago for now if i can get it at a good price. Thanks guys...
Last edited by Gunna; 31-05-2007 at 07:36 AM.
I resent that statement! We were good in the cookie monster, we never thrashed it like you do it was the throwout bearing that was the problem not the clutch, and the throwout bearing noise was there before we bought the car, we just werent expecting it to let go as ive had noisy throwout bearings run for years and never seen them do what yours didOriginally Posted by RAd28
Im about to get a clutch for the hybird as im putting in a TODA racing flywheel which about 3-4kgs, will either get a PBR heavy duty or maybe an Exedy if its not much more. Will let you know how it goes, but flywheel and clutch arent going in until uni is finished for the semester.
51LII - 1972 TA22 Celica | Morpheous Metallic | 4AGE 20v Silvertop | Razorback ECU | W58
Toyota Car Club (Qld)
More troubleshooting woes... does anyone know the values of the 18RGEU Temp Sensor (the green one i think) that goes to the ECU when it is both hot and cold?
Clod - from memory, its something like 800 ohms at 20*C, and about 2000 ohm at ~80*C. Dont quote me for accuracy though.
For reference sake - here is the dyno graph from my 18R-GE, when it was running the stock 18R-GEU EFI gear.
Engine is:
- 9.7:1 pistons
- 88253 head
- 18R-GEU intake
- 4-2-1 extractors
...... butt scratcher?!
what's with the 18RGDE? what's 'D'??
and lol @ number plates..
'77 RA28LT #2 ← 2.2L 18RG...
I'm ashamed to post my dyno graph - despite having a near-identical setup to Witzl, tuning difficulties resulted in a tragic 90rwhp. I blame dizzy flex!
Norbie!
www.norbie.net
Hi,
It stands for "dunderclump". Toyota have that special designation for any engine our 18R-G saviour gets his hands onto.Originally Posted by RAd28
seeyuzz
river
The thinking man's clown and the drinking woman's sex symbol
RA25GT - There is no substitute | 18R-G - Toyota's Dependable Masterpiece
Toymods Car Club Treasurer, assistant Historic Plate Registrar & Forums Admin
Damn straight you gots dissy flex!Originally Posted by Norbie
... and a silly Haltech to boot.
I can't wait for the new dyno result with the megasquirt-2, the engine is so much healthier now and actually runs decent AFRs and timing.
...... butt scratcher?!
So I would have had that problem then eh Norbie?? I knew it was underpowered for a healthy engine I thought it was just lack of voltage from that shithouse Bosch alternator. Or did you change dizzies??
Cheers, Owen
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
The problem is the Haltech's inability to get a clean signal from the reluctor trigger in the distributor, ie nothing to do with the engine itself. Once I have a crank-mounted trigger it will run a whole lot better - all in good time!
Norbie!
www.norbie.net
Just after some more help guys. I was talking to my engine builder the other night and there is a few questions i have so any help would be great thanks guys...
I need an electric fuel pump just wondering what you guys think of this and if you know where i could get one cause iv tried everywhere down here (tas sucks) http://www.racetep.com/webfuelspark.html#webfuel and is there some sort of plate that goes between the sump and the block that i might be missing it looks like there was something there. Any help would be great thanks.
Cheers, Craig...
Whether it be Bosch, Carter, Holley, or some other brand, for fuel pumps ebay is probably your friend.
Just make sure you are buying a low pressure pump for carbies, not an EFI hi pressure pump (like the Bosch 040/044 etc).
There is no plate between the sump and block... just a gasket.
Like Timbo said...
How does it look like a plate was missing from between the sump and block??
Cheers, Owen
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
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