For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[Sagluren]

does anyone have or know the dimensions for the special tool used to set cam timing. I cant remember the part number Toyota use and the green 18rg bible dose not specify the distance between the two locating pins.
How do other people set the cam timing when putting an engine back together. I cant seam to get cams set.

[o_man_ra23]

I line the notches up with the arrows on the cam cap... then from there once the motor is reasonably tuned, move the cams one pin hole at a time to tune

Cheers, Owen

[roadkill]

Yup, what he said!!

The notche is behind the first "bearing" cap and are about 4mm wide. There is only one bit taken out on each cam and it should represent tdc cyl1. Also, it you use genuine chains keep an eye out for the lighter links. That should match up with the little divit on the sprocket. I'll try find some photos tonight. Also makes it easier for getting the sprockets in the right spot first go.

bEn

[Sagluren]

cheers owen and ben, pics would be handy,
so the notch when lined up with the arrow should be at TDC #1, then it is just a matter of mixing and matching the cam gears to the right position using the four holes provided???

Is there any perticular hole to start off using on each cam or is every engine diffrent, will the engine still turnover correctly if one cam gear is not in the correct hole. IE. inlet and exhaust valve clash.


cheers.

[roadkill]

Hi,



You can see the notch where the arrow is pointing - this is what should line up with the arrow on the bearing cap in front of it (sorry i don't have a pic) that points towards the back. From there it can still be a bit fiddly and much easier with two people. This is where a factory chain is alot easier. On the chain it will have three lighter links. Each one of these corresponds to a little divit made on the front of the sprockets (one for each cam, one for the pump drive shaft) Provided you use the right link on the pump drive shaft then you just line up each link with the divit on the sprockets, other wise it is just guess and check for where the chain links go on the cam. Remember it is heaps easier to put the sprocket into the chain and then put the sprocket onto the cam. Once sprocket and chain are in the right spot, it's best to install the chain tensioner (or get someone to push a screwdriver onto the back of the pad) so it mimics the normal chain tension. From there i just double check alignment of the crank and cams and just slide the pin into whichever holes ine up best. You can muck around with the pins to retard or advance but i've never bothered. I will when i get verniers though...

Hope this all helps, i'll try to remember to find pics tonight that might make this even easier.

bEn

[o_man_ra23]

One thing to note, the arrows on the cam caps point FORWARDS not backwards. They face the front of the motor (and the front of the car)

Otherwise, pretty much what he said. You won't have a trouble with valve clash if the cams are fairly close to correct, it's only if one goes way out of line with respect to the other that you need to worry about that sort of thing.

[EldarO]

well ill take the rods, pistons, oil pump, the rest can go in the bin, i havent the time to waste with it.

thanks ya'll.

[roadkill]

well ill take the rods, pistons, oil pump, the rest can go in the bin, i havent the time to waste with it.

thanks ya'll.

Nnnnnnnnnnnnnnoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo ooooo,

You gotta keep the timing cover and pump drive shaft as they are the bits that everyone forgets and throws out!!!!!!11eleven1!!!!! Remember there is a near impossible to get curved chain tensioner pad on the timing cover!!

If your keeping the oil pump make sure that you keep the little drive shaft that actually spins the pump - goes where the dizzy is on the 18r-c(poo)

As food for thought i've paid $50 just for the pump drive shaft - the bit that controls the dizzy, fuel pump, oil pump!

bEn

[Omegaman]

Question,
Whats the best way to confirm the rg valve are seating correctly? that is no leakage.
Experiment to be done at home.
Is it pour liquid in the chambers and see what leaks?

[o_man_ra23]

Pour Kerosene in the chamber, it will leak through just about anything.

Elmo, the most important things to keep are the timing cover, auxilliary shaft, curved chain slipper and oil pump drive. These are the parts you simply cannot buy. Pistons, rods etc can all be bought.

[Omegaman]

Ok, another question.

On a 18rgeu (EFI) what fuel pressure should I expect.
I bought a gauge, wacked it on, due to it being only 15psi max, it went off the radar.
seems i should be looking at around 30-40psi. would that be right?
I placed this gauge after the fuel filter before the fuel rail, Correct or not?
Or do I have to get a new gauge showing a higher psi and place it in the same possie?

[Norbie]

Most EFI systems work on 30-40psi base pressure. Sounds like your gauge is for carby fuel systems which run on much lower pressure.

[o_man_ra23]

Correct position, wrong guage. As Norbs confirmed 30-40psi base pressure is good, higher for boost is often done to add a turbo to a NA factory system due to the inability for a factory NA ECU to comprehend negative vacuum... so a higher fuel pressure is needed to increase the volume of fuel pumped in.

Enough of useless talk... get a guage with a higher reading (not sure how easy they are to get though)

[Jusepi]

Hey guys, sorry for the late reply.

I do have the engine running (was bought running but, so far out of tune it wouldn't rev past 4000). I fitted an electric fuel pump and new ignition system to rectify the various problems.

I will spend the night reading this thread but, I thought I should answer a few questions now.

The compression test was done by a friend with a compression guage (130-140psi)

The engine is engineered as a standard 18rc with an 18rg head complete with DC45 Webbers and full exhaust.

I believe the bottom end may have had a rebuild as it blows no smoke whatsoever, uses no oil/coolant and doesnt have any leaks that I can find.

It could well have been brought up to true 18rg specs though, I simply don't know at this point. I do know that the block is standard 18rc however.

It has plenty of power and proved a very reliable unit at Wakefield (minus a fuel issue one week later with the filter being blocked...flushed the fuel tank and fitted new filter with electric fuel pump since, also managed to fix the fuel sender unit!)

It is nice to know that there were lower comp versions and i will look into it now,

Cheers guys

[Omegaman]

[QUOTE=
Enough of useless talk... get a guage with a higher reading (not sure how easy they are to get though)[/QUOTE]

Thanks guys, plenty cheapies on egay, up to 100psi. will search for the real deal at this point.

cheers