4agze ae92 AFM - Complete guide - doin it the hard way

[ONETEN]

IDIOTS GUIDE TO A GZE SWAP - AE92

Hey dudes and dudettes,

As of 2 days ago, i have finally completed my swap of a 4agze ae92 afm (air flow meter) engine into my ae92 seca sx. The 100 kilowatter gave up the ghost after many mishaps and trips to redline + oil starvation etc etc. I decided to put a low km import motor in for reliability and cause of the better box etc etc. The guide that im preparing here will basically cover the whole conversion from start to finish using and engine package (YES I SAY ENGINE PACKAGE, I WAS TOO TIGHT FOR A HALFCUT) and the associated parts that need to eb sourced to do it. OK to kick things off:

Car: Ae92 corolla seca sx 100kw 4age
Donor Engine: 4agze ae92 levin gtz motor AFM

Engine was purchased from ichiban in sydney (would def recoomend these dudes, engine cost 1700 as opposed to SSS's 2400 one which didnt come with an AFM)
Engine package came with:
-Complete Motor
-Complete Loom (inlcluded was the car loom 24 pic ecu plug and the female side of the ribbon wire plug with a healty length of wire hanging out for splicing, cheers to the ichiban boys for that as these plugs make like VERY easy)
-ECU
-Gearbox
-Gas axed drive shafts (for some dumb nut reason - try to get complete shafts)

Extra parts required if not supplied with motor:
-Carby ae92 throttle cable $35 (removed myself)
-Custom power steer line as gze pump outlet faces up in stead of towards the car, pumps are NOT interchangeable with the 100kw one
-Non LSD driveshafts from SSS $260 (Mine were cut in half - fkn noobs)
-Rear engine mount bracket off the gearbox (unless u got a welder and and hacksaw handy)
-u will need the steel line that bolts ontot gear box and goes to the clutch master cylender it should come with motor but if not ull need another custom line

Highly Reccomended parts:
-New timing belt kit w/seals
-new water pump
-new plugs
-new leads
-new thermostat
-new oil filter
-new air filter
-new belts all round (will add exact belt specs later)

OILS: after alot of deliberation this is what i settled for and is working well:
Engine: 20w-50 castrol edge MINERAL (i would not reccomend synthetic at all)
Gearbox: 80w-90 valvoline gbox oil
Supercharger: 75w-90 castrol syntrax

PART 1
OK first things first, pull out you old motor. DIsconnect fuel, shiter cables, piping (ie radiator) exhaust and anything else that needs to go. I would reccomend removing the radiator before the engine, too easy to mash it. I would also recoomend distonnectig the 6 plugs on the engine looom in side the car and pulling the loom through into the engine bay. If you pull the fuse box near the battery off and take the bottom cover off u will see i think 3 plugs into the bottom of it. Unplug them DO NOT cut anything or the wiring gremlins will come for u. Next driveshafts out, the its time for the motor to come out once the 4 engine mount are undone.

PART 2
Prepping new motor. I would also reccomend doing the service work whilst the engine is out of car, heaaaapppsss easier this way. DO the timing belt kit, w/pump, plugs, filter, supercharger oil and belts and thermostat. Leave gbox oil and engine oil for now (hey i said it was an idiots guide). Also unfortunatly if u dont want A/C u still can remove the compressor as the compressor pulley acts as a underdrive pulley for the Power steer pump and if you want the nifty oil pressure gauge inside the car to work you are prob best to swap over the oil sender unit located under the AC compressor tot he old 100kw motor one. Swap over the timing belt cover engine mount and the right hand side gbox engine mount (on top of the box) and the front engine mount bracket. Also if u managed to score urself the rear engine mounting bracket id do this mount too now otherwise if ur fabricating doit when the engines in. Once you are sure everything is ready to roll put the motor in.

Now i both pulled the old motor out and put the new motor in through the top of the car, without removing the strut brace, or removing the gearbox at any time (i took a chance with the clutch - u may want to replace it or atleast check) although some say its easier to do it through the bottom, not everyone has a hoist. If ur doing the motor through the top becareful of the brake master and associated lines and watch out for the gear selector linkages as i almost fucked mine on the strut brace. Lower the engine in and bolt up the engine mounts and then the easy part starts.

PART 2 SUPPLEMENTARY: POS Rear Engine Mount
Dont worry about this section if you sourced your rear engine mount bracket or were lucky enough to have a motor that came with it. Now some of u maybe a little scared at this section, but its not that bad. First up i made an L bracket out of 6mm mild steel. This i then proceeded to line up against the left hand side of the engine engine mount and two bolt holes on the gearbox that i used for the mounting spot. After the holes had been marked i drilled them out on the press and welded my bracket up. I needed to use a few washer in between the brqacket and the engine mount along the securing bolt to fill the gap. Ill see if i can get some photos of this as its not the easiest thing to explain.


PART 3: Connecting shit.

OK, your engine is in a secured, time to start putting the car back together. First up do the drive shafts. The drivers side shaft is an absolute F%^$EN C^&& to put in, you need to knock the bracket off the centre bearing and bolt the bracet up, the knock the driveshaft bearing back into the bracket while feeding the spline into the gearbox. DO this very carefully, i used a rubber mallet tooka round 10 mins of tapping to get it in. The other ends of the shafts will go staright into the standard hubs. Use the fuel hose off the 4age 100kw motor if the have cut yours, it will bolt on upside down on the regulator on the fuel feed side of the fuel rail. The geabox linkages and speedo cable will all go straight on. As for the clutch line, use the flex part of the standard hose to connect the the steel line on the gearbox. Standard exhaust off the 4age will bolt onto the GZE no probs. RAdiator hoses will bolt up no probs too.Check all vaccumm lines and assciated line to confirm theres no leaks and everything is connected.

Next put in your airflow meter and piping and anything else obvious that needs to go in before starting. Leave the battery dissconnected for now.

PART 4: WIRING
First up the plugs in the engine bay (the one with the white plug and the big black one) go staright into the bottom of the fuse box, no change needed there. Bolt the fuse box back together and re-install. The battery terminal is right there and nothing need to be changed or added to that. Next make sure u bolt the earth strap onto the chassis and motor somewhere. Feed the main loom into the car and install ECU.

I have diagrams which i used to wire up my car, but i found them to be a little inaccurate, so what i am going to do is draw up a schematic of the adaptor plug i made for my GZE which after connecting maybe 25 wires allowed it to become a plug in turn key affair. For now i will upload the diagrams i used but as soon as i get a chance i draw up a diagram that shows exactly what needs to be done. For now here are the diagrams for the GZE.

If anyones got any other questions, feel free to ask.

Hayden

[Kebin]

For further wiring diagrams for the body wiring part of the job can be found here. http://www.soniccreation.com/electrical_main.htm

They should be of some assistance afm wiring harness

[Hibba]

Hey,

Did you ever get a chance to make up a wiring diagram for the body connectors?

[LO01UX]

i know this is a long time ago but did you ever get a chance to make up those diagrams for the body harness adaptor plug??

im in the middle of this conversion and need to wire up the body harness and the guy i bought the gze off has butchered sum of the wiring to one of the ecu plugs

[ONETEN]

Sorry fellas, I had the adaptor plug loom all drawn out of a peice of paper when i did this conversion, but never uploaded it as the paper went missing shortly after i posted this thread up

Its really not overly difficult, if you have a general understanding of electronics & a multimeter, you should be able to trace out most of the circuits, but if you get stuck post up what your struggling with and I will do my best to assist

[LO01UX]

Oneten I've got the gze in and the wiring done from wot I can tell but the engine turns over but doesn't start????

There is no spark or injector pulse either,

The guy I bought it off looks to have changed wires on the biggest ecu plu and has a relay connected to it for sum reason but I can see why???

Im stumped

[punkture]

hello, finally the mechanical side of things have been done in my ta22 with the same engine (ae92 afm dli) but now started wiring =( some quick questions:

* i have the y connector plug, i have tried wiring this but where is the VSV2?? and the 2 main relays for the power come from where? and..

* the 20pin plug and the 6pin plug to are they carrying power from battery or do they need power etc?

thanks for anyhelp, i have a electrical enigneer redoing the wiring diagrams for me, ill post em up once done. enjoi

[samkaos]

That wiring diagram is wrong. AE92 AFM DLI 4AGZE has a 3 wire ignitor (Multicoil) with pins IGT, IGD, IGF. That diagram must be for an MR2 which run a distributor.

I cant believe that Toyota would have the wires from the AFM and the knock sensor (which is a very sensitive wire), go into the engine loom, then out into the body loom via a big plug, then into the ECU via another plug. Thats insane!!

[DX20VT]

I cant believe that Toyota would have the wires from the AFM and the knock sensor (which is a very sensitive wire), go into the engine loom, then out into the body loom via a big plug, then into the ECU via another plug. Thats insane!!

They dont from factory. have had quite a few looms apart and have never sturuck one that does that.