7 pack? weird....
anyway.. if you add leaves to a pack, you should understand which leaves do what.. and where the stiffen up the rate..
just adding a second main leaf with the spring cut off will make a big difference
Hey all I hear so much about people using 7 pack leaf springs on their corolla's and I want to know how it is done.
Thanks in advance,
Dale Jeffree.
1975 KE30 Two Door - 3K BP, K50, & BW4.3
7 pack? weird....
anyway.. if you add leaves to a pack, you should understand which leaves do what.. and where the stiffen up the rate..
just adding a second main leaf with the spring cut off will make a big difference
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
i think old-school semi's would have 7+ leafs in rear springs...
From memory, old 'rollas and galants have 2 ...
nah, there is main spring, and then 2 or 3 others.. 3 i think.. of different lengths...
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
In terms of making leaf springs work well as springs, the less leafs the better.
The more leafs there are, the more they rub together friction between them makes them sticky to move.
But the less leafs you have, the more the axle is likely to tramp.
So if you have the choice, use just one tapered leaf and locating arms to locate the diff housing.
www.billzilla.org
Toymods founding member #3
Could i use 2 main leafs one with the eyes reversed loops and the other with loops cut off, plus a 2 & 3 leaf?
1975 KE30 Two Door - 3K BP, K50, & BW4.3
So how do I add a second main leaf, or should I talk to the guys from Indutrial Springs (aka Aurora Springs) ??
1975 KE30 Two Door - 3K BP, K50, & BW4.3
I'd be more tempted to use the stock springs, but with anti-tramp gadgets on them.
www.billzilla.org
Toymods founding member #3
FWIWOriginally Posted by Billzilla
This is the setup i have in my cortina ATM. It is by far one of the best things i have done. Besides shedding a shit load of weight it has made a big difference to the way the car handles.
I would recommend this to anyone not wanting to go the hole hog with a coil over setup.
300+rwkw 4agte http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/for...wkw-4agte.html
thanks fellas I have some universal tramp bars at home, I had them fitted for a weekend but encounted problems with speed humps at stock ride height.
If I lower the car 2 inches like I intend to do, the tramp bars will be 1/2 inch off the bitumen.
I will probably mod these to get a little more clearance.
Cheers Dale J
1975 KE30 Two Door - 3K BP, K50, & BW4.3
If your talking the typical slapper style tramp bar, then it isn't ideal for the street, not to mention not very legal.
Better alternative is to make your own Caltracs.
http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html
[Project] 'Bugger' - 1999 Toyota Hilux Turbo Ute - PB: [email protected] 1.857 60FT Video
[Project] 'Red Baron' - 1990 Toyota Celica GT-Four - PB: [email protected] 1.869 60Ft Video
Technical Articles Database 3S-GTE/ST185/Celica - BGB,EPC,Tech || 2RZ/3RZ/5VZ/Hilux - FSM
I have a design of a slapper that should work.
It bolts to the bottom of the shocker plate and is secured by the U bolts on a 8mm thick plate. The tube would be 25mm square with a 3mm wall.
The angle cut would be reinforced from the bottom with 5mm flat bar
here is a quicky I did
Attachment 4175
would this be suitable?
Whats the legal side, just out of curiosity?
1975 KE30 Two Door - 3K BP, K50, & BW4.3
Slapper bars arnt legal as under some braking situations they can "bend" enough to hit the road. which is not good.....
Also your slapper bars wont work, as they seem to be too thin. For an example, i bent 2"x1" GAL that my slapper bars are made out of.... Going to 2" square RHS.
Version 1:
http://lance.ugbox.net/Hilux/Modific...on/bendage.jpg
Version 2:
http://lance.ugbox.net/Hilux/Modific.../bendageV2.jpg
[Project] 'Bugger' - 1999 Toyota Hilux Turbo Ute - PB: [email protected] 1.857 60FT Video
[Project] 'Red Baron' - 1990 Toyota Celica GT-Four - PB: [email protected] 1.869 60Ft Video
Technical Articles Database 3S-GTE/ST185/Celica - BGB,EPC,Tech || 2RZ/3RZ/5VZ/Hilux - FSM
I want to use something with a rather thick wall on the RHS, 3 or 5mm wall tube is very hard to bend. For instance the rod that hold the mandrel on our bender at work is 20mm dia with a 5mm thick wall. There has been a few times that I have crashed the bender and the rod has taken a beating but I don't think that the weight of the car is anything compared to 1500 PSI from the hydraulics.
BTW these style were what I was using but they are spaced from the bottom leaf too far and the RHS is too high
This is an example as I am without a decent digital camera
Attachment 4177
Last edited by doityourself; 09-03-2007 at 03:30 PM.
1975 KE30 Two Door - 3K BP, K50, & BW4.3
But even with what your suggesting, your taking a lot of the meat out of the bar, and weakening it by doing that kind of cut. imho...
Unless you box it in after you've done the cut, i can see that working... .kinda.
[Project] 'Bugger' - 1999 Toyota Hilux Turbo Ute - PB: [email protected] 1.857 60FT Video
[Project] 'Red Baron' - 1990 Toyota Celica GT-Four - PB: [email protected] 1.869 60Ft Video
Technical Articles Database 3S-GTE/ST185/Celica - BGB,EPC,Tech || 2RZ/3RZ/5VZ/Hilux - FSM
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