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Thread: 98 E10 tuning.

  1. #1
    Junior Member Backyard Mechanic
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    Default 98 E10 tuning.

    I am thinking of running my car on this fuel.

    I know it will make it run leaner per the same amount on fuel injected due to the oxygen content.

    Say I was running a 12.5:1 AFR with ultimate, what would it be running at if I swapped to E10 with no tuning changes? I'm just trying to get a rough idea how much more fuel flow I would require.

    After AFR's have been restored. Will it take more or less ignition advance than normal fuel?

  2. #2
    ethanol sniffing Backyard Mechanic adamaw11's Avatar
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    Default Re: 98 E10 tuning.

    There was an article in HPI about this, and it was pretty convincing. I think it become something like 13.0:1 AFR with no tuning changes and was 12. something on normal 98 octane.

    According to the article it allowed a fair wack more ignition advance with the E10 (resulting in an extra 20-odd rwkw on a 289rwkw RB26)
    http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=83259
    '88 A.D.M aw11 '98 4age 20v blacktop
    NA: 14.745@150kmh at willowbank. On E85 with 6psi boost: 13.573@165kmh. ~8psi: 13.187 @169.9kmh. >10psi: 12.9 rod fragments @ 174mm holes in block
    daily: '93 ae101 Levin coupe. Motorbike: '09 Suzuki GSR600: 12.358@179kmh at Willowbank

  3. #3
    regular fella Conversion King chris davey's Avatar
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    Default Re: 98 E10 tuning.

    I just swapped from 100oct 10% ethanol fuel to BP ultimate. Basically went from 11.0 to 10.5:1. I wasn't finished tuning on the old fuel though.

    The additional octane from ethanol is most apparent when using the RON method however the method which is more appropriate to use when relating to knock resistance is MON. I have read that ethanol doesn't increase the MON as much as the RON.

    FWIW I didn't change my ignition map when going from 100oct to 98oct BP and no pinging. I did see that article also and the fuel is pretty good stuff. The reason I am changing is because the wankers at Shell always run out of the stuff so I go for a half hour drive to get it and they don't have any. Pissed me off too many times so I gave up.
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  4. #4
    Junior Member Backyard Mechanic
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    Default Re: 98 E10 tuning.

    I'm talking about boost 98 which has the same octane as ultimate and V power etc. The optimax extreme is even more expensive than normal 98. The boost 98 is actually cheaper and I drive past the united servo on the way to work. So if its better it makes good sense to use it.

  5. #5
    regular fella Conversion King chris davey's Avatar
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    Default Re: 98 E10 tuning.

    yep, give it a go. If you are running rich say 11.5 or higher now then the boost 98 will probably bring to about where you need to be. As you are still using stock ecu the knock sensors will save you if you do run into any knock. Give it a go
    Quote Originally Posted by MR 1JZ View Post
    that interior is so jap...just looking at it makes me want to kill a whale
    QUICKEST 1JZ'S IN OZ

  6. #6
    Roadhouse Automotive Encyclopaedia emp?'s Avatar
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    Default Re: 98 E10 tuning.

    my 1g is tuned on boost98 and the tuner seemed to think it was alright
    KE38 - 2TG
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  7. #7
    ethanol sniffing Backyard Mechanic adamaw11's Avatar
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    Default Re: 98 E10 tuning.

    Quote Originally Posted by 2JZR31
    I am thinking of running my car on this fuel.

    I know it will make it run leaner per the same amount on fuel injected due to the oxygen content.

    Say I was running a 12.5:1 AFR with ultimate, what would it be running at if I swapped to E10 with no tuning changes? I'm just trying to get a rough idea how much more fuel flow I would require.

    After AFR's have been restored. Will it take more or less ignition advance than normal fuel?
    I checked out the article again, and their skyline had AFRs of 12.4-12.5 on 98 Premium, then went to 13.0 on Boost 98 with no tuning changes.

    they had a knock meter (powerFC I think) and on 98 Premium they could only run 17 degrees advance (with 18psi boost) and with boost 98, after richening it up, were able to turn it up to 24 degrees advance (same boost level), well away from any sign of knocking, and thats what gave them an extra 22rwkw.

    I've been running it in my 20v for ages, but havn't had the guts to start advancing it further yet, I'm already running 32 degrees advance at full throttle - sure its only N.A but its compression is 11:1
    http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=83259
    '88 A.D.M aw11 '98 4age 20v blacktop
    NA: 14.745@150kmh at willowbank. On E85 with 6psi boost: 13.573@165kmh. ~8psi: 13.187 @169.9kmh. >10psi: 12.9 rod fragments @ 174mm holes in block
    daily: '93 ae101 Levin coupe. Motorbike: '09 Suzuki GSR600: 12.358@179kmh at Willowbank

  8. #8
    Junior Member Backyard Mechanic
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    Default Re: 98 E10 tuning.

    Sounds like juts the thing to make my 550cc injectors appear bit smaller, while catering for the extra ignition advance from my SAFC.

  9. #9
    how much is Too Much Toyota JustenGT8's Avatar
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    Default Re: 98 E10 tuning.

    You definitely need the tuning to take advantage of the extra oxygen and det resistance of ethanol fuel.

    Back to back dyno runs with Vortex 98 versus the Shell 100 oct lost me 25rwkw with no tuning changes. By all accounts with tuning i'd see the reverse but the poor engine is so stressed already more advance doesn't seem like a good idea.
    Lily Simpson 6.7.2010
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  10. #10
    Junior Member Backyard Mechanic
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    Default Re: 98 E10 tuning.

    Why do you think you lost power Justin?

    Has anyone noticed this power loss without tuning?

  11. #11
    how much is Too Much Toyota JustenGT8's Avatar
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    Default Re: 98 E10 tuning.

    Same deal was experienced by Zoom from memory. The higher effective octane means a slower burn is my understanding and effectively lower energy hence more advance and richer mixture required?
    Lily Simpson 6.7.2010
    R.I.P.

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