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Thread: 1GGZE into an RN85 Hilux Dual Cab 2WD [Beware - lots of pix]

  1. #31
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia infotechplus's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1GGZE into an RN85 Hilux Dual Cab 2WD [Beware - lots of pix]

    Quote Originally Posted by Bullfrog
    And then you have to pull it all out again to wire the engine up . he he

    Don't post the wiring stuff i sent you yet i have ammended it again.
    And almost finished the full wiring diagram just hope it works ..lol....
    I have posted it elsewhere but asking for comment so I hope everyone views it as a "work in progress".

    Cheers

  2. #32
    Village Idiot Automotive Encyclopaedia
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    Default Re: 1GGZE into an RN85 Hilux Dual Cab 2WD [Beware - lots of pix]

    pete, mate aside from working on this do you have another job champ?
    seriously its looking great!
    i liked the grey but the black pad and bits has really come up a treat
    that vinyl spray gear is very good and you should end up with a lasting finish as your prep is the bit that makes the difference.
    anyway rep up for good work and a good work diary!

  3. #33
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia infotechplus's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1GGZE into an RN85 Hilux Dual Cab 2WD [Beware - lots of pix]

    Quote Originally Posted by Grega
    pete, mate aside from working on this do you have another job champ?
    seriously its looking great!
    i liked the grey but the black pad and bits has really come up a treat
    that vinyl spray gear is very good and you should end up with a lasting finish as your prep is the bit that makes the difference.
    anyway rep up for good work and a good work diary!
    Cheers Grega,

    I'm on two weeks holiday at the moment, back to work next Monday. I need to get this conversion finished as my daily driver as I have another car in urgent need of some attention (before it's up for rego)

    The grey was good but the black will be much better. Then the dash and centre console will all be the same colour. I'm really impressed with the Septone product:



    Here's the blurb from the Septone website:

    "Septone Vinyl & Plastic Paint is designed for restoration and/or complete colour change of dull or worn vinyl and plastic surfaces and low pile carpets. May be used on dashboards, convertible tops, trims, and seats in both automotive and marine applications. It is also suitable for use on handbags, golf bags, shoes, furniture, luggage, awnings, blinds, etc. "

    Comes in Satin Blue, Satin Black, Buckskin, Gloss Black, Dark Grey, Mid Grey, Satin Red, and Satin White. I've only ever seen the Black, Grey, White and Blue. I've never seen the Buckskin, but I'm intrigued now as to how it might look in another car.

    And you are right, preparation is everything for this stuff to work properly. Look at the closeup of the air vent above and you can see that multiple light coats work very well giving a natural sheen. I've used the Satin Black.

    Cheers,

    Peter

  4. #34
    Sheebz Automotive Grease Monkey Gleno28's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1GGZE into an RN85 Hilux Dual Cab 2WD [Beware - lots of pix]

    Looking good mate! Was just thinking... have you thought of using a 4Runner dash (or SR5 Lux??) which has tacho, oil press volts etc all in one? Sometimes as we know in toyotas, things might just bolt up!

    Glen
    A lone crusader, in a dangerous world of low reputation...
    ST141 Corona, VZN130 4Runner, 4AGE KE70 Pan Van
    18RG RA28
    1GGZE RA28

  5. #35
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia infotechplus's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1GGZE into an RN85 Hilux Dual Cab 2WD [Beware - lots of pix]

    Today I swapped the Crown intank fuel pump at Pick 'n' Payless. Thanks to a tip from a Forum Member (lost the link, sorry ) I got an external Bosch pump, regulator and lift pump from a VL Commodore, as well as the wiring and plugs. I won't need the fuel gauge wiring though.

    Having done a search on Toymods and Google generally I haven't been able to find too much hard info regarding the setup. It was suggested to me that I only need the Bosch fuel pump and I could do without a surge tank. That certainly would be easier but I need to do a bit more research on this.

    I also went to Motorsport Connections and got everything I needed to fit up an oil cooler, which is now installed in front of the air con on the passenger side.

    Toyota sandwich block (Part No. TD1313B 3/4in - 16) Large O-ring $50
    Dash 6 Male to 3/8in NPT 90 deg (Part No. 822-06-06) $17 ea (You need two)
    Dash 6 Pushlock Straight Hose End (Part No. 401-6) $9.25 ea (You need two)

    Plus 2 metres of oil cooler hose from Supercheap Auto $8.95 per metre

    I used the small oil cooler I got at Pick 'n' Payless the other day from a Cressida.

    I unscrewed the oil filter (Valvoline V022), cut the hose into equal lengths (after test fitting for placement and distance), eased the hose onto the Pushlocks with the help of some hot water, screwed on the hose clamps, fitted the NPT 90 deg onto the sandwich block with some Teflon paste (recommended for tapered fittings), then fitted the Pushlocks.

    So at this stage the system was complete at the engine. I then fitted the complete sandwich block, tightened it up with a stubby wrench, and ran the oil hose through the front near the air con lines. I refitted the oil filter.

    Then I fitted the oil cooler, and pushed the hose onto the barbed ends, and tightened with hose clamps. Done.

    I decided to fill the engine with oil to see how much she would take after the sump mod. I poured in just under 4 Litres but it will take more once the oil pump pushes the oil through the system, and the oil cooler. I figure on at least another litre.

    As I was cleaning up I noticed a small amount of oil under the car, and thought I'd perhaps spilt a little. Shite, I looked underneath and the sump had a small pinhole at the edge of the weld. I drained the sump, patched the hole with some metal expoxy, waited an hour and filled it again. I'll check it in the morning but I've placed a tray underneath it just in case. I don't really want to have to remove the sump if at all possible.

    I also cleaned up the fuel tank, painted it, and refitted the fuel gauge sender.

    Tomorrow I'm planning to tackle the fuel pump install and lines to the engine, and finish off the interior painting and fitting.

    Cheers,
    Last edited by infotechplus; 02-01-2007 at 08:56 PM.

  6. #36
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia infotechplus's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1GGZE into an RN85 Hilux Dual Cab 2WD [Beware - lots of pix]

    Quote Originally Posted by Gleno28
    Looking good mate! Was just thinking... have you thought of using a 4Runner dash (or SR5 Lux??) which has tacho, oil press volts etc all in one? Sometimes as we know in toyotas, things might just bolt up!

    Glen
    When I got the Lux interior it came from a mid-90s SR5 but the gauge cluster was already gone otherwise I would have grabbed it. I'm looking at putting an aftermarket tacho in it.

    Cheers,
    Peter

  7. #37
    Junior Member Too Much Toyota
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    Default Re: 1GGZE into an RN85 Hilux Dual Cab 2WD [Beware - lots of pix]

    peter,

    just be carefull with that oil coiler - at a glance it doesn't look like a full-flow unit - if it came from something like a M-series motor, it's not designed to take full-pressure oil (as in it won't flow enough volume of oil). The M-series motors 'bleed off' excess oil (via a pressure relief valve) and send it out to the cooler then dump the cooled oil into the sump.

    If you are going to use a sandwich adaptor then a different cooler is required. I think Permacool sell good full-flow coolers.
    ------------------------------
    ST185 road barge / MZ11 forest barge / RA65 garage barge

  8. #38
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia infotechplus's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1GGZE into an RN85 Hilux Dual Cab 2WD [Beware - lots of pix]

    Quote Originally Posted by thechuckster
    peter,

    just be carefull with that oil coiler - at a glance it doesn't look like a full-flow unit - if it came from something like a M-series motor, it's not designed to take full-pressure oil (as in it won't flow enough volume of oil). The M-series motors 'bleed off' excess oil (via a pressure relief valve) and send it out to the cooler then dump the cooled oil into the sump.

    If you are going to use a sandwich adaptor then a different cooler is required. I think Permacool sell good full-flow coolers.
    Thanks for the heads-up on that Chuckster. I'll see what else I can find to do the job but it'll have to be as small to fit the space available without major fabrication. I know when I fitted an oil cooler to the race car I used a much larger unit from a Nissan GTS-T/GT-R and it works beautifully. Maybe I'll get another one of those.

    I'll check the Permacool range too.

    Peter

  9. #39
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia infotechplus's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1GGZE into an RN85 Hilux Dual Cab 2WD [Beware - lots of pix]

    This is the Bosch fuel system that I pulled from a VL Commodore. I checked the main pump with a small 12v battery and it seemed to be working OK. I also got all the mounting hardware in case I needed it but I think I will make up a mounting plate and get a U-bracket from the hardware store for the main pump. Fuel hose I'll grab from Supercheap Auto.



    Here is a good article on Bosch fuel pumps:

    http://www.autohausaz.com/html/fuelpumps.html

    This is the fuel tank all clean and painted. I refitted the mechanical gauge sender but I'm thinking I might go back to Pick 'n' Payless and get the complete hardware for the lift pump, and see if it is feasible to make up an adapter plate for the 22R tank. That way I can run the electrics for the lift pump and fuel gauge from it. Otherwise I have to modify the existing plate and that poses some problems.



    A couple of photos of the oil cooler setup. The sandwich block on the engine with it's Speedflow fittings, and the unit mounted (temporarily with cable ties) in front of the AC radiator.





    Any ideas on where else I could mount an oil cooler inconspicuously would be appreciated.

    And ... the sump is stil leaking so that's a major setback I'll also have to deal with.

    Cheers,

    Peter
    Last edited by infotechplus; 15-11-2007 at 08:03 AM. Reason: Photobucket Upgrade

  10. #40
    ANGRY MAN 2011 Chief Engine Builder Admiral coFF33's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1GGZE into an RN85 Hilux Dual Cab 2WD [Beware - lots of pix]

    this thread is brilliant, cant believe ive missed it in my hunts !!!

    very nice work infotechplus

    Ive always personally wanted a Turbo/SC hilux....
    Great info on this thread

    keep up the good work !

  11. #41
    Junior Member 1st year Apprentice Bullfrog's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1GGZE into an RN85 Hilux Dual Cab 2WD [Beware - lots of pix]

    Hi mate,
    I was looking at my lux tonight and thought a good place for the oil cooler would be next to the number plate either side or underneath where the bash plate is if you have one on the lowlux.
    Hilux RN110

    1G-GZE Gen 3 Conversion currently underway

  12. #42
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia infotechplus's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1GGZE into an RN85 Hilux Dual Cab 2WD [Beware - lots of pix]

    Not much happened today - suffering a little bit of burn-out I think.

    I did finish the interior of the Hilux, especially the gauge plate. I used the spare cluster shroud from the two door and carefully cutout the middle air vents. I saw this on a Hilux on a US website (either Customtacos or Yotascene) and thought it looked okay.



    Then I made up a template from cardboard, transferred it to a piece of 2mm aluminium, traced three 2 1/8in holes and cut them out with a holesaw, cleaned it and covered it with carbon fibre vinyl. I mounted the three Speco Thomas gauges - Volts, Water Temp and Oil Pressure, and connected all the illumination black & red wires together, and fitted the water temp sender to a new T-piece in the upper radiator hose.





    Here's the temp sender in the custom T-piece. I had to remove the Jap one as the sender was bottoming out on the back of the pipe.



    I put back all the bits I'd removed a year ago when I originally got the ute - kick panels, steering column shroud, etc. Everything on the dash and in the centre - arm rest and coin pockets - is now satin black. I also re-routed the amp power cable from the driver's side to the passenger side (as that is where the battery will now be).





    I didn't do much in the engine bay but I did fix the igniter assembly to the firewall.



    Now that the inside of the Hilux is completely finished I can concentrate on the outside and underside.

    Still to do:

    Chassis Black on the rear frame, axle, diff centre and rear tail shaft
    Refit the petrol tank after I fit the VL Commodore lift pump assembly
    Fit the BOSCH inline pump and new fuel lines

    Cheers,
    Last edited by infotechplus; 15-11-2007 at 08:08 AM. Reason: Photobucket Upgrade

  13. #43
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia infotechplus's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1GGZE into an RN85 Hilux Dual Cab 2WD [Beware - lots of pix]

    Howdy all,

    Today I'm happy. Happy because I finally got my head around the EFI install.

    After lying awake at night thinking about how I was going to solve this I sat down this morning and went through the various options. First I thought I would use the original 22R tank fittings and make an adapter plate to accept the VL pumps. But that was too hard.

    Maybe just delete everything except the BOSCH pump but I wasn't sure what the usability of that setup would be. I'm wary of detonation and don't want to lean out under "spirited driving".

    So I decided to look at the feasibility of fitting the lift pump to the 22R's original fittings.

    I went up to Pick 'n' Payless again, pulled the lift pump from another VL Commodore, sat down on a nearby tyre, looked at how GM Holden had fitted everything and then scratched my head thinking why it took me so long to figure out. Here's what I came up with ...

    Converting the 22R (or any carby engine) to EFI Part 1

    Go to your favourite wreckers and grab all the EFI Fuel Pump fittings from a VL Commodore. You need the BOSCH inline pump and the intank lift pump. Grab the rubber tubing, hose clips, electrical connector and the small star washer on the underside too while you're there. You don't need the fuel gauge mechanism as you'll use your original (as on the 22R it is separate).

    On the 22R pickup tubing I removed the gauze filter.

    Also, make sure you get an intank setup that has its gauze pickup filter intact (no tears or holes). check the gauze for sediment too. I didn't take the first one I pulled as there was too much contamination for my liking in the filter.

    This photo shows the lift pump mechanism (below) and original 22R fitting (top):



    It is important that you get the star washer intact so pry it off gently. This photo is a little out of focus but you can see the star washer.



    Now take your original tank fitting. This is the outside of the 22R pickup. You will have to place a mark where you will drill through the plate somewhere in the middle of the two tubes.



    When you make the hole, use a small drill first to get a good guide, then use a larger drillbit, and finally make a hole slightly smaller than the rubber collar on the VL lift pump fitting. Be careful here because you are aiming for an interference fit. If needs be use a round file to bring the hole up to a nice tight fit.

    Here's the finished hole on my 22R fitting:



    Now take the wiring from the VL and push the fitting into the hole you made on the plate. I used a hammer to gently ease the fitting into the hole. Now put the star washer on with a small screwdriver so it is up against the underside. Nothing should move now.





    This is the lift pump fitted to the bottom of the pickup tube with the original rubber tube and two hose clamps. Make sure they are tight as you don't want the pump sliding off. Join the wires to the bottom of the lid via the two spade connectors. You can't get it wrong as they are of differing widths. The purple wire is +ve, the black wire -ve.



    This is another view of the completed fitting, with the wires connected. I emulated the original and twisted the wires around the pickup tubing, and cable tied it, before clipping the wires on the spade connectors.



    I eased the setup into the tank and screwed down the lid (make sure you fit the large rubber ring to seal the tank).





    So there you have it.

    This is Stage 1. The next task will be to re-install the tank and connect up the BOSCH inline pump with new fuel hose and get a new fuel filter.

    BTW, you can test the functionality of the BOSCH by wiring it up to a small 12 volt battery. But only for a second or two as the pumps don't take to well to running dry. Just enough to confirm that it works.

    I'll cover that install as Stage 2, hopefully tomorrow.

    Cheers,
    Last edited by infotechplus; 04-01-2007 at 06:57 PM. Reason: Fixed up some typos

  14. #44
    Village Idiot Automotive Encyclopaedia
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    Default Re: 1GGZE into an RN85 Hilux Dual Cab 2WD [Beware - lots of pix]

    good work peter man.

  15. #45
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia infotechplus's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1GGZE into an RN85 Hilux Dual Cab 2WD [Beware - lots of pix]

    It was a nice hot day here in Sydney so I decided to clean and spray the rear frame of the Hilux. I'm using Septone Chassis Black (1 Litre tin easily does the whole chassis as it has high coverage especially when it is sprayed - you can brush it if you want) and this provides an anti-corrosive cover as well as a nice shiny finish.

    I started off by removing the spare wheel lift mechanism, then all the brake lines, followed by the rear shocks and shock platform. Then I masked off the rear drums, the brake block, some rubber lines, and the towball. I cleaned everything with W&GR, especially around the diff housing which had built-up grime, then soapy water to get rid of the last bits of dirt.

    Chassis Black is pretty sticky (it takes a good 24 hours to dry properly) so I put down an old blue tarp I've been using when painting (a couple of $$ at Supercheap Auto).



    Here's the finished product. I've put the 3" lowering blocks back in to steady the axle:





    Closeup of the diff housing:



    Now I can reinstall the shock platforms and shocks, bolt up the brake lines and replace the rubber grommets from the frame. The fuel tank will go back in tomorrow and that will allow me to check how much EFI Fuel Hose I'll need. I'll also need a horseshoe shaped bracket to fit the BOSCH Pump.

    I bought a Craig, Davis Thermal Fan Switch to control the thermal fan. My original idea was to use electronics operating through it's water temp facility but I already had a Speco Thomas set of gauges and didn't want to double up when money could be better spent elsewhere. The Craig, Davies was a third the price. and easy to setup.



    I also got another oil cooler from a 4M. This one was in much better condition than the other, slightly larger one. I'll remove the other unit, and increase the size of the oil lines from 5/16" to 1/2" to promote flow.



    Cheers,
    Last edited by infotechplus; 28-06-2008 at 11:12 AM.
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