Stop firewall butchery! - Ultimate 20V RWD Cooling System Guide

[Sam_Q]

Well I have finally writted the first proper easy to understand 20V to RWD guide that doesnt involve firewall mods, relocated engine monts, cross-over pipes, external thermostats, etc.. you even get to keep your heater running. It's pretty much a summary of part of my worklog (see signiture for link) and some more.

I am still working on it but I need to know what people think about how I could make it better. I am still working on the grammar.

heres the link:

http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?p=69258

[myne]

Looks pretty good.
Though I'm never going to own a sprinter it's nice to know people out there are willing to share what they learn.

Have you ever considered a GZE alternator bracket? It's basically where yours is with the minor bonus that it doesnt need to be made

[Sam_Q]

I could of used a few brackets, but I decided not to because I am a perfectionist and wanted it in one particular position. Besides 4agze brackets need 4agze alternators which I hear are bloody hard to come by. I am going to update my guide in this area, I will recommend not doing what I did.

[Dom-AE71]

sam good stuff, ive already followed your whole thread post by post and has been very helpful to me. one thing i might ask why u didnt jsut use a 4ac alternator bracket and alternator? from what ive been told you can swap the pulley's around.

[Sam_Q]

funny you say that I just finished adding that to my article. I thought of this but I wanted it completely out of the way, more compact and lighter and I was interested in the challenge of making my own. I think I would summarise it as a perfectionism thing. Just like my article says I wouldn't recommend it to anyone.

[Lambolica]

Is pretty easy to understand, and not overly complicated to do if one is handy with the tools.

Certainly makes the changes required sound alot simpler.

[takai]

Good guide man, makes life a lot easier imho.

[Sam_Q]

thanks guys, I have written some other much smaller articles to do with the rest of the RWD conversion I will release them in due time. I need to get my website running

[M.J.H]

Very nice job and well done on the article.

Will definatly be doing it this way for my 20V.
just a quick question though, can you make and supply another plate for the rear of the head and if so how much?

[Sam_Q]

no sorry I can not as I don't have the time, it defiently wasnt easy to make. I do however have a RWD kit that uses the old fasioned way. Also I beleive Anthony Kellam sells the plate.

[Dimitri]

anthony cetaintly does make the rear plate. his differs slightly in that it has provisions for your water temp sensor and temp guage sender, and also has provision for your heater hose, it actually puts it in such a position that you can use the factory hose.

he also has the blanking plate and billet machined dizzy cover. and does the front water neck on exchange.

i can organise these parts for you. its just over $200 for the whole kit iirc.

[Sam_Q]

I dont like his setup. For a start I am tottaly against his dizzy cap, and that's because it rubs against the heater hoses. While I give him credit for straight out detailing it does so it doesn't take a genious to figure out that a moving part that rubs against another softer moving part isn't a good idea in the long term. As for my heater hose being different and the temp sender being somewhere else I think I have the better approach. I initually thought about putting these things behind there, that's why theres a blanked off hole in my plate. I didn't because there's a major lack of space as it is and the way I have it I can easly install and remove my water pipe in a limited amount of time. Also I can lean my engine back and easly unlug my temp sensor in seconds without any problems. I do give him credit for making such a kit though, it certainly does look well made and very well priced. I am mistaken in any way about this then please correct me.

[Dimitri]

umm i dont want to be outa line, but i think you took that the wrong way, you actually mentioned ants parts, and i simply mentioned that i know the guy and can supply them, and mentioned they differ.

youre correct it does rub against the heater hose. i have run this set up for many months and since sold the car and it is not a problem. it is quite alot more expensive to make the dizzy cover in a more complex shape to gain greater clearnace.

as far the postion of the sender and sensor, the most important thing is to have them in the right place to get a correct reading on your guage, and the computer get the true temperature of the engine. at the rear of the head is the best place for this, as it is from factory. the sender and sensor are actually in the top of the housing, so you can quite easily reaach them with the correct size deep socket.

as far as i can work out, and correct me if im wrong, the inspiration for the set up you went with after deciding not to use a piping kit was ants kit. i also take offence to "doesnt take a genius" this is the guy who designed a dli kit so you can run a direct fire set up with a factory engine management..

im not trying to steal your thread to sell parts, some one asked, you actually mentioned the parts yourself, so i very briefly described them and let some one know theyre avialable.

seeing as you have no problem being completely honest though, ill comment on your set up. your alternator bracket is extremely under engineered and i would plan on having to repair it if i were you.

[Sam_Q]

I didn't take it the wrong way I was just trying to give some constructive opinions. I won't take offence at any person who corrects me or sujests something if they say why and do it in a manerable way. As for the dizzy cap I didn't mean in a few months I meant in a few years. Maybe it will never rub through but I don't like the idea, besides I think it's ok to just leave it without any cover.

I didn't know that moving the sensor from the rear of the engine to the front can mess things up. Would you be able to tell if what I have done will make a difference? If so I will move it. It would require some very tricky work to change it now but I would do it if I had to.

Anthony did very well designing a DLI kit I won't deny that. But if theres two moving parts that rub against then I can't see why it won't one day rub through in due time.

I also know that you arn't being a sales pitch, I have no problem with you just trying to help another guy out.

With my alternator bracket, your right, it needs more bracing which I will do. No offense taken thanks for the tip.

One last thing Dimitri, I know I come across as being condesending and insulting, I don't mean to. Relax a bit, I wrote this article because I want to help people and I don't want to let anyones opinion (including my own) get in the way of what is the best information. So correct me as much as you like, abeit in a polite way and I can change my article so it can be as accurate as it can be. I want to make this right and so people won't have any nasty suprises when they do this.

Oh and yes I commend Anthony for making such a kit, even if I don't like one part of it I really like the fact that something like this exists and cheaply to boot.

->Sam.Q

[takai]

When did Anthony change the location of the temp senders from the back to the top? The kit i installed a few weeks ago had them at the back. For that matter, i quite dislike having them at the back as well.

The 16vs have them running off the front water outlet (which is basically where you are sending the water by blocking off the rear water outlet), so i think it is perfectly reasonable to run the temp senders there. Infact for a while in my 16v the Haltech was running its sender at the back of the block (where the plate is on 20v), and my water temp gauge (GReddy) was running at the front of the block, and i was only noticing a proverbial bees dick of difference. If anything it was slightly higher at the front.

Anyway, anyone got more suggestions on where to put them.