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Thread: Bearing kits for W50 and P51.

  1. #1
    Normally Aspirated Domestic Engineer RT104GT's Avatar
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    Default Bearing kits for W50 and P51.

    G'day guys. I went to BSC and they matched four of the six bearings from the P51 box I am rebuilding.
    the input main, the main shaft main and the output shaft and secondary bearing.

    The two counter shaft are non matchable.

    Any ideas?
    1968 RT40S Corona 1600S series II (restore in progress)
    1973 RT104-MQFG 012604 Corona GT JDM (Owned since 1976 242000 km)
    1989 ST185-BLMVZ-0007199 Celica GT4 JDM (unmolested classic 95000 km)
    2012 ZN-6 86GT (shed find 5000 km in 6 years)

  2. #2
    Toymods Net Nazi Too Much Toyota river's Avatar
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    Default Re: Bearing kits for W50 and P51.

    Hi,

    Try Porsche, as the P51 is ostensibly a Porsche/ZF patented gearbox.

    I think the bearings maybe the least of your problems, as the synchro-bands wear out and there are none in stock anymore, which means you'll have to get them custom made - asuming your synchros are worn out.

    I haven't checked fully through the P51 repair manual to see if they show the measurements for the synchro-bands (to determine if they are worn out). But if you are rebuilding the box you should also get the synchros replaced. It'd be a tad annoying to get it all rebuilt only to find it crunches gears due to some worn synchros.

    seeyuzz
    river
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  3. #3
    Rest in Peace Conversion King ViPeR_NiPPleX's Avatar
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    Default Re: Bearing kits for W50 and P51.

    RBT in the states now handle ZF boxes, I think they own the rights to the designs, casting moulds, etc. Might be worth a look.

  4. #4
    Normally Aspirated Domestic Engineer RT104GT's Avatar
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    Default Re: Bearing kits for W50 and P51.

    Quote Originally Posted by river
    Hi,


    I think the bearings maybe the least of your problems, as the synchro-bands wear out and there are none in stock anymore, which means you'll have to get them custom made - asuming your synchros are worn out.


    seeyuzz
    river
    Well if you can tell me what a worn syncro looks like Ill check but I just spent the better part of an afternoon up close and personal with my Corona box under the car, a light on a stick which could double as an assreamer and the spare P51 and the P51 in bits and came to the conclussion that the ONLY way you can tell a P51 is to look inside AND to select FIRST gear and watch the collar go around. it is a three tabbed device that turns at a fixed ratio.
    In the gearbox with oil you cant see the brake bands as they pick up the goo and you cant see.
    In the gearbox on the bench without oil you can with a bright light.




    THE LARGEST GEAR ^^^^^^^^ and next to it a triangular rotating thing can be seen through the oil filler hole using a bright light..

    You put the clutch in and select fourth and then you can see the second identifier for the P51 the three tabbed collar go around when you turn the tailshaft.


    But unless we can come up with a clear picture of something on the outside that identifies a P51 I would say that you cant tell without getting down and dirty.


    Didn't you say that a small casting blemish is the way to tell?


    My latest quote for bearings for the propject box is about $200 but two are unobtainable and they are not the major bearings, but the counter shaft bearings.

    I really dont need to fix the cluster as I have 2.5 gearboxes but I will to see how it is done for the future than I can save people making mistakes..

    Question now is do I put the so called low KM box in or sell it??
    Last edited by RT104GT; 21-10-2006 at 03:04 PM.
    1968 RT40S Corona 1600S series II (restore in progress)
    1973 RT104-MQFG 012604 Corona GT JDM (Owned since 1976 242000 km)
    1989 ST185-BLMVZ-0007199 Celica GT4 JDM (unmolested classic 95000 km)
    2012 ZN-6 86GT (shed find 5000 km in 6 years)

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