GUIDE: GXE-10 IS 200 Stereo and Phone Installation

[GTtwin]

Hey all. Just fitted a new stereo and phone kit to the girlfriends IS 200 and thought this info may be handy.

Please note the information provided is a guide. This is alot more complex than a stereo install into something like a Corolla or the likes. If you are not well experienced in strereo installs or electrcally minded I would not attempt this yourself. I cannot be responsible for any damage to your vehicle from the information I have provided. Now thats the nasty disclaimer business outta the way, lets get on with it.

Step 1: Stereo Removal.

Firstly, remove the gearknob and trim comprising of ashtray and lighter socket. This unclips and pulls out towards the rear of the car. Now unplug lighter, lighter globe and ashtray globe.
Unclip trim under stereo, this pulls out towards the rear of the car also. Unplug Trac Controll switch and Seat Heater switches (if applicable).
Unclip centre air vents. This panel may need slight help fron a small flat blade screwdriver. Be carefull not to scratch the trim.

You should now have something that looks like this:

This will now expose 4 10mm head bolts holding the stereo and climate control assemblies. Remove this and unplug Stereo and Climate Control.

Step 2: Stereo Wiring.

The IS 200 audio system comprises of front 6" spearkers with separate tweeters, 2 rear 6x9" woofers and 2 rear mid/high components. These are all run off a 6 channel amplifier with built in active cross-over. It is located behind the glove box.

Remove the pins in the hinges to remove the glove box as shown below:

Now exposing the Amplifier:

This is shown just for reference, it is not necessary to access the amplifier for most stereo installations.


The wiring listed below is taken from the view of looking into the rear of the stereo plug (as shown below). With the locking clip as "up". Listing is from left to right.

Top Row
1. Blue - Front Right
2. Black - Front Left
3. Yellow - Mute
4. No Connection
5. Brown - Audio Ground
6. No Connection
7. White - Amplifier Trigger +12v
8. Green - Dash Illumination +12v
9. Red - +12v Constant Power

Bottom Row
10. Red - Rear Right
11. White - Rear Left
12. Green - Beep Output
13. No Connection
14. Braid - Chassis Ground
15. No Connection
16. Black - Antenna Signal Booster
17. No Connection
18. Black - Accessory Power

The factory amplifier uses a conventional 0.5v to 1v line level input, its internal cross-over then does its job and powers all the speakers with their respectable frequencies. This means we can use the standard RCA pre-outs on an aftermarket head unit to run it. It would be preferable to have a stereo that has front and rear outputs so the fader and balance will work correctly.
To do this, get a simple, cheap 1.5 to 2 metre RCA lead and chop it in half. Don't use a fancy twisted pair or any other bright blue garbage cable. Keep it simple! We now have four plugs with wires. Strip the wire back on all for to reveal the sheild and the inner conductor. Strip back (don't cut) the Blue, Black, Red and white wires respective to the above listings for front and rear speakers, then tap the centre conductors of your RCA leads into these four. This is fiddly work as the wires are thin. Solder and tape these wires so they are well insulated from each other. Lable these as you go, it will make things easier when you connect the new deck.
Now join all the shields together and tap these into the brown wire (Audio Ground). Do not chassis ground these wires, this is a very specific audio ground and runs directly to the amplifier, connect only to this.
Now connect the stereo powers as the list states above. Be sure that your new stereo's blue wire goes to antenna booster and the blue/white wire goes to amplifier trigger. If your new head unit only has a blue/white then connect it to both these.

NOTE: If you are fitting a fancy head unit that has lots of lights, a big flash display or is a DVD player, the red +12v supply on the factory plug may not be able to supply enough current. If so, run a power wire (same size as the new decks constant +12v) from the Blue/Yellow wire at the factory amp and chassis ground it to a good point behind the dash.

You should now be able to plug your new stereo in to test it. If you have followed these directions correctly then you should have sound. If you have a small fire in your lap then please don't come crying to me, you should have paid closer attention.

The Factory Amplifier.

If your not compleatly baffled by now, we'll move on to the factory amp. As explained before, its a 6 channel unit and seems to do a pretty good job of running the factory speakers. My suggestion would be to leave it as is, but if you are a big doof doof head then here is a list of the power and speaker wiring if you want to fit something bigger.

Big Plug (15 Pin)

Top Row
Blue/Yellow - +12 Constant Power
Red/White - Woofer Right +
Red - Rear Right +
Black/White - Woofer Left +
Black - Rear Left +
Light Green - Front Right +
Pink - Front Left +

Bottom Row
Karkhi - Accesory Power
White/Blue - Woofer Right -
White - Rear Right -
Brown - Ground
Yellow/Red - Woofer Left -
Yellow - Rear Left -
Blue - Front Right -
Purple - Front Left -

Obvoiusly if you are fitting a big amp you can't use the power and ground listed above. It will require a high current power lead run directly to the battery via a large fuse and a good chassis ground.

NOTE: The rear woofers are 2 ohm. If connecting to an aftermarket amplifier, be sure it is 2 ohm stable and has a low pass filter. Do not parralell the rear woofers and mid/high speakers, they are different impeadence and require a crossover.


Now thats the wiring taken care of. I'm still waiting for my mounting kit to arrive so I will have to finish this off a bit later.

Phone Kit Installation.

Any phone kit can be wired up using the above listed power connections at the stereo.
The pin shown as "mute" on the unused plug can be used as a negative trigger phone mute if installing a car kit using the factory unit. Do not use the yellow mute wire on the factory stereo plug for this, use the one shown below.

I mounted the phone cradle using a right angle bracket so no holes had to be drilled into an exposed part of the dash. If you are fitting a bluetooth kit then this is of no concern.

Car kit module fits nicely behind the centre air vents. This can be seen in the top picture.
Speaker and microphone should be placed in sensible locations. Be sure when running cables behind the dash that they do not interfere with the pedals or steering column.

[Koffee-Black]

great info there!