Results 1 to 2 of 2

Thread: How to install a FWD 4A-GE into a RWD Corolla (AE86/AE71) - pictures included

  1. #1
    MR 18RG Chief Engine Builder The Witzl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    3,164

    Default How to install a FWD 4A-GE into a RWD Corolla (AE86/AE71) - pictures included

    The Witzl's guide to installing a FWD 4A-GE into RWD corolla.
    The complete guide, including water outlets, wiring, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, thermofans, clutch lines and other tid-bits


    ** This guide is fairly specific to putting a Smallport (aka 100kW) 4A-GE in an AE71/KE70/AE86 corolla, but should be applicable to other cars.


    Well there have been a few guides about how to do this rather basic swap, and yet the same questions still always pop up, and many guides are missing the smaller and less "technical" details which many writers omit as assumed knowledge.
    Hopefully this guide will be as complete as possible for the method that I chose to use for installing a 100kW 4A-GE into my AE71 - aka "PumpBoy". Continual updates and additions will be made along the way to ensure this guide covers just about everything, short of the blindingly obvious.

    If you feel something is missing from this guide or my information is incorrect, please PM me or email thewitzl at optusnet dot com dot au... i will correct and update where necessary.

    NB: this is NOT a step-by-step guide, but more a whole bunch of individual tech articles/guides/notes slapped together to help you along the way.
    I recommend to anyone attempting this conversion to try and learn WHY or HOW things work if they get stumped or stuck - this way you are sure to develop skills and knowledge above and beyond the realms of n00b.

    The Car

    There are a few things you should do with the car before you start jamming new engines and crap in the engine bay and kicking yourself for it later.

    #### to be updated later #####

    The Engine, prior to Install

    Well hopefully you have a nice little 4age sitting on an engine stand, no doubt looking messy and dirty and totally not suited to your car.
    Whilst it's on the engine stand, i recommend doing the following things:

    # Replace the front main and rear main crankshaft seals. This involves removing the sump, rear main seal housing and oil pump housing - so you will need the two housing gaskets and some toyota sump goo (loctite or similar sump gasket goo). These parts are worth <$30-40 from any Toyota.
    # Remove engine mounts and gearbox braces from your 4A-C on the floor and put them on the SAME SPOTS on your 4age. The blocks are virtually identical, so this is literally a bolt and swap job.
    # If your 4age has a/c and p/steer pumps on it... remove them and their associated brackets. All you really want on the front of that engine is the crank pulley, water pump pulley and alternator pulley - which are all driven by one belt
    # DO NOT use the 4ac alternator on your 4age, this is both dodgy and stupid. Use only a 4age alternator or 4age replacement. Likewise the water pump pulley - do not use a pulley from a rwd 4age or your 4ac... the pulleys do not line up properly.
    # fix the water outlets (see water outlets section)
    # Install a pilot/spigot bearing in the back of the crank (FWD engines dont have them)
    # Replace timing belt
    #### MORE TO BE UPDATED LATER ########

    Water outlet modifications

    Quite simple really, just do the following:

    # Maintain the original FWD water pump and associated pipes etc. If you bought the motor from an importer or the like, remove the water pump and replace it (recommended highly).
    # Take a remote thermostat housing (complete) from an AE82 4A-C (run down to your local self serve wreckers, cost $10)
    # Get yourself the flat type rear water outlet on the back of the head (i got mine from an AE82 bigport 4age)**pictured below**



    # Get yourself a handful of hose clamps (new) and random bits of radiator and heater hose from the wreckers.
    # Cut the rear outlet of the waterpump (big pipe) around 3-4inches from behind the waterpump
    # Do the same with the smaller outlet from the back of the top radiator inlet at the front of the motor
    # Use a small straightish section of the smaller diameter pipe you just cut to use as an extension piece to connect two heater hoses together
    # Put together as you see in the picture below




    The Intake Manifold

    I would recommend you get the welding done here by someone skilled.... i used the wonderful services of JMR.
    The following is a whole bunch of information jammed together about getting your manifold "cut'n'shut" and the follow on's from having it done.

    So this is for those who are interested, and have no idea of what is supposed to happen when you get your intake manifold professionally "CUT'N'SHUT". Basically the throttle body is removed from the original end, and a blanking plate is made up to cover up the hole. A plate is laser cut for the other end with a hole the size of the TB, and is drilled/tapped for the TB to bolt onto it. The "rear end" of the plenum which is now the front in your RWD car it cut off, and the laser cut plate welded on so that the TB can be bolted on.

    Further to this, i made some slight changes to the function of the TB - namely the warm idle up functionality. This is the water that circulated at the bottom of the TB for idle up in extreme conditions - i figured i didnt really need it, and it was more of a pain to hook it up than remove it.
    So i simply unbolted the water circulation parts from underneath the TB (this is the bit with the small water outlets coming out from underneath the throttle body), and completely covered the mating area of this part and the throttle body with gasket paper, and bolted the two back together. Thats it - nothing is now hooked up to that POS.

    Other than that - everything is pretty simple and self explanitory looking at the pictures below.


    ****My pic missing.... dang it!!!****

    So, I stole some others from the internets....

    http://i.imgur.com/evkkt8D.jpg?1
    http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...GEengine01.jpg

    ... a cut-n-shut manifold
    http://i1254.photobucket.com/albums/...d/photo1-1.jpg





    NOTE RE PCV HOSE: ***written by Jason Purcell (picturs show his intake manifold, not mine)
    The cankcase vent hose spot on the intake manifold will not be functional when a smallport intake manifold is cut and shut.

    The pipe on the inlet does not go straight into the intake manifold, it goes into a gallery on the inside of the intake that routes it to BEFORE the throttle butterfly.

    You can see the gallery in the picture below, mine has my air intake temp sensor through the middle of it towards the rear of the phlenum.
    **pics no longer hosted, bugger!**

    Basically, the cankcase gas goes in the pipe, along the gallery, out the end of the manifold, then through another gallery in the throttle body to before the throttle butterfly...

    The arrow on the right hand side of this pic shows where the gallery used to come out before it was filled on this manifold, highlighted with a red dot...
    *** NOTE: all these pics are no longer hosted, and i dont have them**

    The hole where that red dot is then passes the gas into the hole here:


    Which then comes out here:


    And one more shot to show where the hole should be on an unmodified intake manifold...



    If the manifold is simply cut and shut, and the hose connected straight into the standard location, it will have the same effect as plugging the vent on the cam cover. So the best thing to do is to plumb the cank case vent into the intake before the throttle body in a NA setup, or before the turbo in a turbo setup...
    Last edited by The Witzl; 16-06-2009 at 04:36 PM.
    ...... butt scratcher?!


  2. #2
    MR 18RG Chief Engine Builder The Witzl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    3,164

    Default Re: How to install a FWD 4A-GE into a RWD Corolla (AE86/AE71) - pictures included

    Well here are the ECU wiring diagrams. I've labelled everything to make it all easy to read and understand...

    I'll go into the explanations of all the confusing bits later on, cos it takes a while to explain it all!!






    STILL need to add the following:

    # mechanical install notes
    # alternator wiring notes
    # EFI wiring notes
    # clutch lines
    # gearbox and diff selection notes
    # Thermofans
    # EFI fuel system

    ... and more....
    Last edited by The Witzl; 04-05-2006 at 09:06 PM. Reason: finally doing something!
    ...... butt scratcher?!


Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •