Surely it wouldn't even run that lean??? Must be excess fuel/oxigen fooling the WB?
AE102 - Charlene the Old Faithful, Reborn
JZZ30 - Lexi the Spacecruiser, 1JZGTE>>3SGE. 200rwkw, hunting Skylines and n00bs in SS Commodores
ST162 - Charlie the non-ghey Celica, 3SGE>>4AGE. GOOOOOOOONE
AE82 - Rosie the Bitsa from Hell, 70.8kw atw. Has been converted into garage space and money at last
KE55 - Billie the Beast, sadly missed
Surely it wouldn't even run that lean??? Must be excess fuel/oxigen fooling the WB?
Engine can't run as combustion is not possible at 35:1. And I have never heard of a WBO2 that can read 35:1 as most top out around 22 or 23:1 AFR. Maybe it is a code for over-rich or over-lean ??
Anywho... problem seems to be not enough fuel or too much air. I'm a 4AGE guy so I'm just extrapolating what I know about the 4AGE to your 3SGTE. If all the usual things electrical things check out OK then it might be time to look at some of the less common features that I suspect your car might (or might not) have. Such as...
- TVIS system ? (butterflys staying open instead of closing at idle)
- Cold start injector ? (not squirting while cranking)
If you had 15:1 when it first started, and it ran for a while, you are not too far away from where you need to be. Maybe you could try winding the fuel pressure up a bit more as an experiment ? I don't think that you should normally need any more than 3 bar at the rail, but if the engine actually runs at (say) 65psi, then you can start looking for something weird in the fuel system.
Cheers... jondee86
I AGREE Jon. It's a gen 3 so no tvis or cold start which is why its so weird. Went to napkin and got a 4k resistor for the iat sensor. 3k resistor for the manifold iat and a 2k resistor for the coolant temp. All should make the ECU think its roughly 20 degrees colder and add a bit more fuel.
On the last build I ran an aftermarket HKS V PRO so set the idle and correction maps myselt. Funky cams and stock ECU I might have to play around...
Fuelings, a 340 in tank pump feeding a 2l swirlpot, feeding a Bosch 044, twin fed rail, genuine SARD fpr. All checked n running sweeeeeeet.
Smoke tested for vac leaks, nothing.
Iac has been cleaned and seems to be working.
Btw rechecked the resistor pack with a diffrent multimeter all pins came back at 8 ohms.
I work 4 on 6 off so I'm determined on my days off to get her purring right on the stock ECU till I can go motec or wolf ECU. Turbos only a GT2860RS/550 injectors/mild cams so stock ECU should cope easily..
Thanks Guys. Appreciatted.
Will report back later what I find.
Last edited by Blackcountryboy; 25-03-2017 at 01:13 AM.
FIGURED IT OUT...
Had success and disaster all in the same morning!!!
Had a hunch it was running lean on the stock ECU with the higher compression ratio and high lift cams...
Sooo I fitted a 5k ohm resistor to the air box temp sensor.
A 4k ohm resistor to the inlet manifold temp sensor.
A 3k ohm resistor to the coolant sensor...
FIRED STRAIGHT UP INSTANTLY!!!!
KILLED IT AND REPEATED. FIRED BACK UP AGAIN EASILY!!!
11.5 - 12.0 AFR. Revved ok (didn't go higher than 3k)...
Just ready to bust out a cigar n go for a pint and all of a sudden...it just died INSTANTLY. No spluttering. INSTANTLY.
Turned her over. No spark. No fuel. No engine check light. ECU fuse looked ok.
WTF???
Brought the ECU home to have a look for anything obvious
could I have fubar'd.my ECU?
Cheers
Chris
I'm a clown. Checked the ECU fuse. EFI fuse had blown : )...
Well done !!! Nothing succeeds like perseverence
Now all you need to do is a bit of fine tuning by juggling the resistors and fuel pressure until you hit the AFR's you want. You could try taking the resistors off the air temp sensors one at a time, as they will have the least effect on fueling.
Cheers... jondee86
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