Knock Sensor into 7 Rib Big-port 4AGE

[GeeEss]

I know; will hopefully have a chance to try another tune with DT correction on Sunday.

Ordered the LX1 Gauge + reprog adapter off Peter @ TechEdge (arrived this afternoon) so that should make life a bit easier. . .

[GeeEss]

I gave myself an early mark & drove out to Smithfield this PM & grabbed a Sensor (90-99 Tarago's / Estimas / Etc have same sensor as N/A 16V 4AGE).

I then promptly dropped it 2-3 feet onto my concrete driveway as soon as I got home. . . . Pfffaaaarrr%&$#@ !!! Guess I'll find out it if its cactus when I attach it & get engine to knock.

Worse-case back out to sunny Smithfield I'll head with another $30 in my pocket. A hassle but better than spending $300 on a new part - unless you're up for a punt on a $15 Chinese copy. . .

I managed to drive over and have a look at the AE92 afterwards & got rather bummed out - no KS boss. . .

I honestly thought (holes aside) that the early & later 7 rib 16V blocks wpuld be exactly the same but as far as I could tell (from some strategically placed torches & my Phone's camera - they are not! This seemed to put the kibosh on my plans update the block sensor-wise, until I came across this thread below. . .[/LIST]

>>>> http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=55937

I may not be able to hot weld but I do have 2 packs of JB Weld** on my shelf and its going to get a run - I'll build up a little mound of the stuff & plonk a nut right on it in same position as Video.

< I swear by the stuff; hasn't let me down yet >** .

[TTMX83]

Hi, did you end up installing a knock sensor with JB Weld?

Cheers Brad.

[GeeEss]

No I didn't; the reasons being that;

1. I realized that location of a knock sensor is not something you can screw around with; it's specifically determined by the factory engineers to suit that particular engine. The location of the knock sensor on the 4AGE is a right PITA w.r.t. access, esp. on a FWD layout meaning you would have to remove all the inlet hardware just to get at that location to cold / hot weld the nut onto the block.

2. The whole point of a knock sensor (IMO) is to allow you to tune closer to the edge / optimum so you want to make sure its sending bona-fide signals to the ECU. I wasn't really convinced that a pressed mild-steel nut bonded to cast iron by a third metallic solution would transmit knock signals correctly.

The above factors bothered me enough not to bother; and my engine isn't even FI - if yours is I certainly wouldn't risk it - just get a later block with the proper mounting. I ended up picking up a BT block+crank/caps for a good price . . ; and a complete but semi-tired BT engine; Cylinder pressure: 160 | 160 | 180 | 180 ) both of which which I may / may not use. . .

[fergo308]

Sorry for resurrecting an old post,but is there any perceivable difference between the various 4AGE sensors? Any model better than the others?

Regards,

Justin...

89615-17010 is for bigport GZE (AW11 + AE92)
89615-12060 is for smallport GZE (AE101)

89615-12020/50 was used on smallport 4AG's, 20v's also got 89615-12040/50. Only these ones were used in other models but usually in pairs for larger engines so I guess Toyota were happy with the resonance of them in detecting knocks. A lot of them are USDM as well which had completely different fuel and emissions laws so the tune they were running might not have demanded as much knock control.

wideband knock sensors are also called "flat response" sensors.

[TTMX83]

No I didn't; the reasons being that;

1. I realized that location of a knock sensor is not something you can screw around with; it's specifically determined by the factory engineers to suit that particular engine. The location of the knock sensor on the 4AGE is a right PITA w.r.t. access, esp. on a FWD layout meaning you would have to remove all the inlet hardware just to get at that location to cold / hot weld the nut onto the block.

2. The whole point of a knock sensor (IMO) is to allow you to tune closer to the edge / optimum so you want to make sure its sending bona-fide signals to the ECU. I wasn't really convinced that a pressed mild-steel nut bonded to cast iron by a third metallic solution would transmit knock signals correctly.

The above factors bothered me enough not to bother; and my engine isn't even FI - if yours is I certainly wouldn't risk it - just get a later block with the proper mounting. I ended up picking up a BT block+crank/caps for a good price . . ; and a complete but semi-tired BT engine; Cylinder pressure: 160 | 160 | 180 | 180 ) both of which which I may / may not use. . .

Cheers for the reply. I was more concerned that without the ECU seeing a knock sensor it would pull timing out of it as a precaution.