How to get the best from Eaton M90//1UZ ??

[zedrift]

I have some questions about getting the best out of my humble Eaton M90 on the 1UZ ..

Firstly i have almost sourced everything needed for a R154 conversion .. Im hoping for a marked improvement minus the worn out auto ..

I have bought a current model Adaptronic ECU along with some RX7 injectors that are not yet fitted and already have an aftermarket in tank fuel pump and rising rate fuel reg that are fitted ..

My plans are to run a smaller 10/12 psi pulley and water/meth with the Adaptronic ..

1: The exhaust & extractors; It currently has a twin backyard mild steel 3" mandrel bent with stock headers..

*Will a set of extractors/headers designed for an NA 1UZ be of any use with 10psi boost or would i need to have something custom made

** Is a 3"twin exhaust overkill for this application

2: Porting the Charger; Is porting the charger worth the bang for buck ??

[Cuzzo]

Put a m112 on it

What manifold you using?

[zedrift]

I cant be sure what manifold it is .. I bought the kit of Justen 3-4yr ago .. Its all fitted up nicely

Does the 112 fit under bonnet and whats it cost ?? Im not real keen on spending the cash on a charger upgrade at this stage .. i want to get the tranny and ECU in ..

[Cuzzo]

It's a bit taller than the m90.

Water injection will help if your boosting it. Manual should get you some kw back. My stock 1uz gained 25 - 30 kw going manual

[zedrift]

The M90 only just fits under the Soarers bonnet

[CrUZida]

The M90 will be creating a phenomenal amount of heat at 10-12psi.
Water/meth injection is a must, as will be spending the money on tuning it.
Going manual probably won't give much in the way of power gains, but the drivability will go through the roof.
The adaptronic will give good gains aswell, especially if the tune is good.

But at the end of the day, sub-10psi is the general limit of the M90, and if you want more power, get a bigger charger.

[Dazza]

If the M90 came off a V6 commodore it will have a teflon coating on the rotors which can be damaged if you run your water injection before the supercharger. Mace engineering and FIT both make water to air intercoolers that fit below the M90. I know someone running 17Psi boost on a V6 commodore with a Mace water to air intercooler and a few other mods. It makes 1000Nm of torque on the dyno.

[BLSTIC]

Also, those same (MACE in particular) companies port their M90's. They do show good gains however it should be noted that the coating on the blades has a LOT to do with supercharger efficiency which skewed the results of their earlier porting. I.e. some of their before and after tests were not performed with the same set of rotors. AFAIK since realising the effects they were planning on repeating their tests, so results on their website should still be accurate if they updated them. Call them if you have questions.

But still, I believe they have some 11 second cars still with an M90 style blower, so they can be made to haul...

Also re: the ability to strip rotors of their coatings through water injection: That has a LOT to do with the size of the water droplets. An ultra high pressure pump (i.e. 300psi, think vibrating piston pumps like aquamist and some coffee machines have) with a good nozzle gives better atomisation than an air assisted nozzle (spray gun style), which in turn craps on windscreen washer pumps with plastic garden fittings. And atomising the water is what it's all about. Smaller droplets have a higher surface area, they evaporate faster, they follow the airflow better and they give better cooling. IIRC autospeed made a system designed to go before the air filter with a coffee machine pump. They achieved pressures too high for normal hose clamps (had to get a high pressure hose made) and the system made droplets small enough that they didn't even wet the air filter...

[CrUZida]

Water/Meth injection is also a lot more efficient than WTA cooling.

[zedrift]

I dont know what the charger is off but the water/meth is definately penciled in as part of the build and has been discussed with my mechanic who suggested fitting two nozzles under or after the charger at the front and back ..

Im hoping for some real difference in the way the car builds power as a result of the direct feed from the engine when i change to manual .. The current auto trans seems to have what most would describe as lag and i thought Superchargers were supposed to have next to none .. I was attributing this to the old luxury auto and its slipping clutches .. You can almost feel the clutches letting out on take off and then it just takes off but you cant just stomp the pedal with a direct result .. I was thinking of getting a dyno reading before and after the manual for comparison .. Even when moving along the engine would need to be running over 4k rpm to throw you back in your seat which seems a bit high .. At 95km in overdrive i can stomp it and it will drop to second and move pretty quick to 120km and wants to march on with enthusiasm ..

I had a look at some figures last night for the M90 and 112 charger and can see i would be lucky to see 10 psi with the 90 and the 112 would make an easy 14 psi but bigger 112 or sandwich plate cooler is extra big $$ at this stage plus i want the setup to stay under the bonnet .. Its already 15-20mm from touching the bonnet so definately no cooler and not much room to move .. The 112 would be something to look to for the future as an upgrade as i think it should fit up to the manifold and plate already on there but would need some sort of vented bonnet i think ..

As for the exhaust and headers does anyone have any advice on that

Thank for the feedback and advice so far =)

[BLSTIC]

Just to give you an idea on what it should drive like. I have an AE92 Levin GTZ, factory with a big-port 4AGZE (and the same big-port cams found in most other big-port 4AGE motors), hardly something known for it's low end urge. With the SC12 (same style of blower as yours, just lots smaller and a little less advanced) it's throttle response craps on every other forced induction car I have driven (*with one exception) from a great height. The low end torque is decent, from 2500-4500 it's damn good, and it slows down a little past 5000rpm. There is no lag and the engine does exactly what I want when I want. With 10psi down its throat your car should respond to the throttle much like a 6L plus motor, regardless of the transmission.

*that one exception, my stepfathers stroked, supercharged, manual AU XR8. But when you add 5.7L, a small cam, efi and a supercharger together something has to be majorly wrong before you get a power delay.

Your 4000rpm before any fun happens... Is it like a slipping clutch in a manual? Or is the gearbox holding full torque but the engine just isn't making any?

*edit: If you use vibrating piston pumps they can easily make the pressures to go after the supercharger. For maximum atomisation on pumped setups you want to change nozzle size to control water flow, not drop pump output. So multiple switched pump/nozzle combinations are the answer. If the Adaptronic ECU doesn't have enough outputs (or you want them for something else) a combination of the Jaycar kits will do. You can use their 'simple voltage switch' on the map sensor as a boost trigger and a couple of frequency switches on the tach signal to have a crude rpm mapping system, which is a whole lot better than having a single stage system (invariably a compromise between knock supression in the mid-range and not flooding the motor at low rpm).

[GT1978]

Is the any clearance below the sump? Could you lower the motor to gain some space over head? Little bit of sump chopping and mount relocation might benifit in handling a little also.

Glen