4agze start up after rebuild - tips please

[handmade]

Hi Guys,

Im just about ready to start my GZE after full rebuild. Just wondering if there any things i should know about before doing so.

1. What oil should i use for start up and run-in?
2. What are some of the tricks? eg. disconnect fuel pump and turn over to fill engine with oil.

Any insight appreciated.

Cheers
Waz

[old_mr2]

oops wrong thread...

[Munki]

Hi mate

I use penrite running in oil, make sure you dont rev the engine out though when using it.

turn over the engine without plugs till you get oil pressure then start her up and run the bearings in, 2krpm for 10 mins should do it, and dont let it idle. Then take it for a drive and start the running it all in.

[dangdang]

Mineral oil and pull the plugs and spin it on the key for a while a good few times to get the oil circulating. Then when your ready to fire pull the coil plug for a bit to get some oil pressure then plug her in and go for it! Once your idling let her run and keep an eye on all your fuel, oil and water lines until your happy nothings leaking and everythings up to temp. Then just drive real easy for the first thousand kay, nothing too hard/quick and no big revs. Its all about heat cycling the engine that beds everything in.

[Casey-G]

15W mineral oil. (i.e penrite running in oil, HPR15 will do the trick too)

Crank over till oil is in the head with the spark plugs out.

Probs a good idea to have an oil Press gauge hooked up before you start it.


I hear that if you have ARP head studs installed you may need to remove the cams and retension the studs/nuts, i did not know about this until a few days ago and i will most likely do it now seeing as a few people have had head gaskets leak because they haven't done so.

[allencr]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Light oil non-synth., pre-lube & oil the rings, check gauges & leaks, the mototune link isn't just for motorcycle racing engines but some doesn't really matter on an engine that rides the street. Check the plugs after its first run, then about half way & again at its first oil change at 600m/1000km, at that time check the exhaust & intake tightness, belts & hoses, valve lash and re-torque the head.
DON'T LUG IT - too high a gear for the road speed/RPM, no accelerating from below 25-3000 in any gear but 1st & 2nd!!!!!
Good luck.

[andrew_mx83]

DON'T LUG IT - too high a gear for the road speed/RPM!!!!!

actually for the first 100-200kms you need to load the motor up as much as possible to bed the rings into the new hone pattern. lots of overrun (engine braking) is also good as the high vacuum condition forces the rings right out in the bores and scrapes the oil down, preventing glazing. letting it idle for too long initially may also cause the bores to glaze.

i just ran-in my freshly rebuilt 7m yesterday, did about 200km of hard driving through the mountains, while keeping the revs down and loading the motor up as much as i could up hills and engine braking down hill. doesnt seem to blow any smoke
it is just starting to loosen up now, and i will start slowly increasing the revs (hasnt been over 4000 yet) for the next few hundered k's then drive it as normal.

for oil, either use the penrite running in stuff or burson brand of the same thing for under $30. basically it is a pure mineral monograde oil with no detergents, again to stop the bores glazing up while the rings bed in.

and yes make sure you crank it til the oil press light turns off before you plug the coil in and let it fire

[Cuts]

your going to get many varied opinons on this.

seems everyone agrees to use running in oil, or mineral without the detergents etc.

i agree with andrew.

crank it till you get oil pressure. (no plugs is easiest on starter)

warm it up checking for leaks (vary revs constantly)

go for a drive, dont rev over 3/4 redline for the first few hundred, then increase gradually. By 1000km you should be able to take it to the limi.

most important thing is vary the load, up and down gears, on/off boost, a hilly (is that a word ) area is the best.

dont sit on constant revs for too long.

[Casey-G]

Would anyone reject the idea of running a low compression engine in, minus boost till its completed its first 1000-1500kms?

Its how im running in my rebuilt 4agte and would just like to know anyone elses thoughts on it.

[Cuts]

boost helps bed rings in

[cri_ag]

i did my 4agte on the dyno, reasonable amount of load, varying revs, but not near the redline, engine makes good power and doesn't smoke.

[KENut]

Wind motor over by hand (der)
Hopefully you primed the oil pump before wacking it all back together
Wind over to get oil up, but not for ages
Start, 1500-2000rpm, 10-20 mins, little rev every now and then
Maybe let it cool down and retorque head
Drive, with varying rpm and load, make sure the rings bed in.
Dont let it idle too much

[StuC]

The only problem i can see with yours Casey is the tune as its not factory turbo. If you're confident the tune wont ping its head off, run too lean or rich without the turbo then go ahead, however if the tune is fine for turbo run that one mate.

Long hills and load her up are the best way to ran them in.

[dangdang]

I will be running in my 4agte in n/a with the factory ecu. I figure its safe and no fuss. Then when I'm happy its ready, slip the turbo gear and ecu on and get a tune from there.

[Casey-G]

Cheers, Stu, I am petty confident it will run fine my current map, was tuned with the previous motor with the SC turned off, then once the - manifold pressure side of the map the + values were tuned.


heres hoping though