Microtech wiring help: VVT and a/c

**CrUZida** · 13-03-2006, 01:22 PM

Yes, the ones he has listed are not PWM.
The ISCV runs of the PWM outputs which are separate to the ones he has listed.

I wouldn't really be called the PWM outputs aux outputs, as without idle control the motor isn't really the nicest to drive. (been there, done that)

But what I'm getting at, is that if you have the idle control setup right, all you'll have to do, is wire in an input that turns on when you turn the AC on, and providing you have the ecu set up correctly, it will auto adjust the idle rpm/fuel.
You are not wasting an output by doing this, unless you don't have any idle control in the first place.

**NVD05X** · 14-03-2006, 09:30 PM

yeh thats what im thinking... i have no electronic ISCV (mine is mechanical)... so im assuming the 20v doesnt either... im probably wrong. (being a newer engine it probably does)

**CrUZida** · 14-03-2006, 09:47 PM

I'm pretty sure the 20V runs a 3 wire PWM ISCV, as I'm pretty sure this is what I am running on my 1UZ.

**bobob** · 15-03-2006, 01:19 AM

Well I am all a bit new to this wire bizo, hence the questions.

Thanks for the input.

I dont know what a PWM is. The motor has a cool 3 wire thingo (I pulled it appart, its cool) thats labeled in toyota labels ISCV. It looked like magnets and a shaft that could open stuff.

The bloke thats tuning it that seems to know his toyotas (oh, you have this problem, you have forgoten the blue and pink and red wire near the bit near that bit) seemed to be happy with the way I wired it up when I dropped it off this morning. Will find out how she goes late this week,

**NVD05X** · 16-03-2006, 06:40 PM

PWM stands for Pulse Width Modulated/ Modulation/ Modulator...

which basically means you can adjust the out put to control your idle speed valve...

**AE3SGTE** · 26-10-2018, 05:34 PM

Originally Posted by psychofox

Yep Bobob you have it correct,The microtech will switch the earth so you need to run a 12V IGN to one side of the VVT solenoid and the aux output to the other side of it.

I wouldn't bother with the Relay, the VVT will draw bugger all current.

Originally Posted by NVD05X

as for the relay i'd use one just to be safe... you dont want to shit your ecu output.

Digging up this ancient old thread.
Not concerned about the idle control, just controlling the VVTi.
I have a stock 20V Blacktop motor running a LT10S ECU.
I have wired the entire motor with COP setup and open quads and have it running. But I don't understand how to run the VVTi.
I have 3 -ve outputs from the ECU
White / Red - used to trigger thermo fan relay (set up and working)
White / Black - wiring diagram has this labeled as AUX Air?
White - wiring diagram shows this connects to either AUX solenoid or relay output.

Judging from the above comment, I should not directly connect this to the VVTi solenoid, and use a relay.
But, I can't get my head around how the relay is wired.
This is what I came up with, but I just think its cray.
ECU White output wire to 85 pin
12v IGN wire to 86
Ground 30
87 pin to VVTi solenoid
Is this right? or does this just fry things?
Note:- Have not wired it yet, need guidance on how to.

Any help here would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Ali

**LittleRedSpirit** · 27-10-2018, 06:23 AM

Ok, so firstly stop saying its vvti, its not, its VVT.

VVTI is constantly variable, vvt only turns on or off and if on it goes to the maximum position of 40 degrees advanced if on and returns to normal cam timing when off.

Its only and on off switch, and your ecu should turn it on by grounding its circuit within the ecu. There's never been a need for a relay on any car I had with vvt. ECUs tend to just liven up a circuit by making connection to ground electronically.

All the solenoid does is allow oil pressure to advance the cam. It unblocks a hole.

A VVTI controller is much different, and is PWM style. You will need to set up an electronic control system with that type of more intelligent cam advance. It allows pulses of oil pressure at different frequencies to position the cam differently.

Most people just turn it on at 2000 revs and off at 6000 revs.

**AE3SGTE** · 28-10-2018, 08:13 PM

Wow VVTi sounds really cool. Learn something new every day!

This is a Mircotech we are talking about, and CrUZida who has experience with Microtech and NVD05X both say to use a relay?

As far as I can tell the Mircotech only has the ability to switch VVT on at a certain RPM, but no off again. Yay Microtech!
I can add a second parameter for switching on, adding a certain Vacuum reading to be met as well as RPM point, as stated at the end of this Toymods thread
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/thr...-vvt-rpm/page2.
This is explained in the ECU's manual further.
So looks like I may be going to lose out in the top end with this ECU.

**LittleRedSpirit** · 31-10-2018, 06:47 AM

My Adaptronic ecu has high current capable outputs that run it, if the Microtech does not have these, then use a low current capable output as a relay trigger.

VVT does nothing for top end, it artificially creates low down torque, that's why it turns off at 6000 revs usually on a 20v. Pretty much every twincam series of engine nowadays has some sort of cam control to make extra low rpm power. Mivec, VVT VVTI Vanos, its all just 25 ways to make the same sandwich.

**AE3SGTE** · 01-11-2018, 01:58 PM

OK. I am going to use the rpm controlled -ve output from the Microtech, and wiring the relay like this
https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram46.html