4AGZE rebuild worklog

[quiksilv]

Hi all, I started this project a few weeks ago and thought its about time I post up some pictures and log some work done. Admins feel free if you think this should be moved elsewhere.

Having never done an engine build before, I had to start from scratch and that included getting all the basic tools required

- 1/4" and 3/8" drive socket set, ratchets and extensions
- 3/8" drive torque wrench (108Nm)
- 3/8" drive 15" breaker bar
- Rubber mallet, Digital micrometer, plastigauge, zip-lock bags, innox, crank pulley remover, valve spring remover/installer etc.

Here is the victim in all her glory - AE101 4AGZE. Purchased off the forums and came with CAS, Intake manifold, alternator and a few other ancillaries.
Will be aiming to build into a 4AGTE and although havent made a final decision, will probably be destined for an AE82.



Updates may be slow, but more to come!
-------

t25g to replace the supercharger


E58 LSD box (i hope!)


AE101 ECU with new capacitors


ARP head and main studs



Spool rods

[PULSE]

Hey mate, I'm real interested to see this thread, cause I'm slowly planning a 4AGE conversion for my celica (TA22) and it would probably be a good idea to rebuild the engine. Looking forward to updates +REP

[quiksilv]

Started by removing all the ancillaries that were left on the engine such as fuel rail, thermostat, mounting brackets, etc and used the good old 'bolts in labelled snap-lock bag' method to try keep similar things together!

Then started on the timing belt cover, which to completely remove requires pulling off the crank pulley with a puller remover like this one



Next removed water pump, engine mounts, oil dipstick, third timing belt cover plus timing belt to reveal more of her true self


My ring spanners just threaded the tensioner pulley bolt so I had to cut the timing point and get a socket on there. Will definately need a new bolt and pulley.


The timing belt pulley was a reeaaal bitch, but after half a can of wd40, innox and all sorts of screw drivers, I finally managed to pry it off and suprisingly no damaged keyhole



and so marks the end of a productive day!

[Cuzzo]

how did you not break the oil pump getting the crank timing pulley off?

[quiksilv]

Theres definately score/dent marks on the pump but I used two big screw drivers to lever it out while spraying wd40 on the shaft... then I had to hit it back in with a rubber mallet and do it again. Each time I did it, it pulled out just a little bit further. It probably also helped that I didnt care much for the pump since im planning on getting a new one I hope.

[30psi 4agte]

how much did you pay for your rods ?

[quiksilv]

$490 from Forcefed on the forums including ARP rod bolts - they definately look the shiz so hopefully they perform just as well. I think they are slightly lighter than stock too.

[nick.parker]

how did you not break the oil pump getting the crank timing pulley off?

I had to drill and tap so holes in order to use a puller to get mine off! Was in an AW11 with engine in car..so not that easy either.
Nick

[quiksilv]

Off come the cam covers (I also noticed the covers and cams have been out before with some cam caps in the wrong position as well as having two E3 cam caps while missing E2).


and out come the plugs, which apart from the rusted bolts aren't too bad I guess


cam pulleys


seals, camshafts and caps removed..


close-up of valve shim, head bolt and lots of gunk!


still to come: off comes the head!

[merc-blue]

Subscribing.
Will also be watching,
Im doing a "bitsa" GTE built with a hi-flowed T25G
Will be intrest to see how your pistons looklike, as im still tossing up on weather or not to use what i have

[GtiRboy]

subscribing also....looks interesting!

[Cuzzo]

With the tensioner bolt. Its better to use a deep socket to get her off. You could also swap to the single hex bolt that comes on the NA 4age. But you may have to change the crank pulley with the NA one as the pointy part help with timing doesnt it?

[TooF]

yes on the SC that point is used for the timing.

that head looks like its in pretty sad and sorry condition :S

[quiksilv]

Thanks cuzzo, I don't have proper deep sockets and being impatient I thought it will be easier to cut the bugger rather than go out and get a set but ill definately be getting some now! I have seen 4A's without the spike on them but I'll order a genuine one from toyota along with the tensioner pulley.

The head is definately in bad shape as you will see in my next post!

[TooF]

you'll need to get some 3/8" drive long sockets. specifically a 10mm double hex as you'll need this to remove the head bolts.