Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 22

Thread: Sams MA61 7MGTE Conversion Guide

  1. #1
    Kamber King Conversion King Negative Boost's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,158

    Default Sams MA61 7MGTE Conversion Guide

    MA61 7MGTE Conversion Guide

    Disclaimer: If you follow this guide and kill/injure yourself or others, I cannot be held liable. Simple really!

    Hey guys, this is my attempt to clean up my 7M conversion thread and put it into a step by step guide based off my experiences for those planning on this swap.

    This conversion is done into an Australian 1983 MA61 using a Jap import 7MGTE motor. The 7M motor is a 1st gen with the 6M crank.

    This guide goes on and on and on a little bit and explains each step in a lot of detail. More of a dummies guide really. If you can’t follow this, there is no hope for you!

    First off, work out all the expected costs of this conversion and double that and the time you expect this to take. I thought this would take me 1 month, it ended up being about 4 months in total (on the road end of Sept 06) and I’m still having issues I’m fixing with the engine. I bought my complete 7M motor for $800 but have spent near another $1200 on parts for it.


    Parts Required

    First step is to gather all the parts that you need for this engine conversion.
    • Complete 7MGTE with uncut loom and ECU, Fuel pump relay and resistor, Fuel Injector Resistor, Igniter, Intercooler and pipes.
    • Clutch, few options which are explained later.
    • Oil Pressure and Boost gauge at the minimum.
    • Pod filter with adapter for the GTE airflow meter
    • Remote oil filter relocation kit
    • Tacho adapter, see guide here or here. Or buy one from Sideshow as I did.
    • New NGK BCPR7ES spark plugs. These are a heat range colder than the stock spark plugs and are good when boosting above stock boost.
    • New 5M fuel filter
    • Toyota Genuine 7MGTE oil filter.
    • Oil of your choice. I use a semi synthetic 10-30w.
    Oil Filter

    There are several options in dictating what setup you will use. The reason you cannot use the stock setup how it is, is because it fowls with the right engine mount when it is bolted to the forward location.
    • You can use the stock Oil Filter Bracket and rotate this anti clockwise until the filter is clear of the mount. Be aware that the oil cooler outlet pipe will move close to the PS pump. This way retains the factory oil cooler setup.
    • This is what I did; I installed a Permacool Remote Oil Filter Kit and rotated the Oil Filter Bracket anti clockwise a little bit so the Permacool kit would clear the engine mount. This way also allows me to retain the factory oil cooler system.
    • Get rid of the stock Oil Filter Bracket and run the oil filter relocation kit directly off the block. This also gives you the option of using an aftermarket oil cooler in the loop with a thermo switch. To do this you will need the thread adapter that sits in the NA block. These can be ordered from Toyota.
    Clutch Options

    There’s a few different options which you can chose from, I’ll list them below.
    • 5ME, 225mm flywheel with a HD clutch. Pressure plate at 33% stronger than stock, which is what most companies HD clutches are.
    • 7MGE, 240mm flywheel with a std clutch. These are apparently good for up to 10psi of boost then start to slip.
    • 7MGE, 240mm flywheel with a 2JZGE std clutch. These apparently bolt straight up to the 7M flywheel and many guys on cs.com use this combo.
    • 7MGTE, 244mm flywheel re-doweled/drilled to suit the 7MGE pressure plate. You also use the 7MGE clutch disc. I only heard about this recently from Pete05 from toymods.
    • Custom, this is the route I went after a bargain popped up on toymods. This consisted of a 5ME, 225mm flywheel, 5 puck solid centre clutch disc and a 1100kg pressure plate. I do not recommend using this for street use IF it’s your daily. But it’s a blast to use through the hills. One more problem is not many other people can drive it straight away (many weird lurches/launchings & stallings). It took me ages to get used to it. I’d much rather a sprung centre 5 puck with the 1100kg pressure plate.
    Oil Pressure Gauge

    The sensor/feed for the oil pressure gauge can come from a few different places.
    • There’s a bung behind the lower turbo bracket.
    • You can use the location of the stock oil pressure sensor. If you do this the oil light in the dash will stay on unless you plumb the gauge’s sensor/feed in-line with the stock oil pressure/switch sensor.
    • And there’s another bung next to the engine number to the left. This is the oil feed to the turbo so if your going to use this as a option, you’ll need custom lines to plumb the sensor/feed inline.
    I used a mechanical oil pressure gauge and ran a copper line from the bung behind the lower turbo bracket. When using copper or steel feed lines for an oil pressure gauge it is important to ‘coil’ the line just after connecting it to the block to take up vibrations from the engine when running. If you don’t, the line into the block will bear the brunt of the vibrations. And this may cause the lines to fatigue and fracture causing an oil leak under a very hot turbo. I then ran this line up and through the firewall on the RH side keeping it away from hot things like the dump pipe. Then it ran up the side of the dash out of sight unto the gauge where another coil was made.
    Picture of the coil and fitting in the block.
    Running up the firewall and across into a hole in the firewall.
    Picture of the gauge mounted on the A pillar.


    5M Removal

    To remove the 5M engine and transmission the following needs to be done.
    • Remove engine, nuff said if you don’t like ripping stuff apart and getting dirty then maybe an engine conversion isn’t for you. And don’t forget to undo the transmission cross member bolts, take the shifter out and take the PS rack out as well unless you want to damage it.
    • You can remove the igniter and coil as these wont be used. I cut the wires for these off the loom and taped them up so it looked neat. Picture here of all the 5M electrics and wires I removed.
    • Label all electrical cables that will be left in the engine bay like, Alternator plugs, Starter motor plugs, Oil pressure switch wire, etc.
    • Don’t forget to drain all fluids before taking engine and transmission out.
    • This step needs to be done in order for the 7M engine to fit into the MA61. The 5M has a engine vibration dampener fitted to it on the LHS up towards the front of the block. This connects to a bracket on the front LHS of the cross member. This bracket needs to be removed from the cross member (most easily done with an angle grinder) so it wont foul on the 7M A/C pump when the engine goes in.


    Engine Prep

    The following steps are things that’s must / recommended be done before the engine goes into the car.
    • Degrease and clean the whole entire engine so its dirt free! Then dry it off and don’t forget water that may pool in the spark plug gallery.
    • Replace both the front and rear main seals. You’ll thank yourself later when you hear of other people’s mains seals leaking and the work required to change them when the engine is in the car.
    • Replace all coolant rubber hoses. This means buying new hoses to and from the radiator, turbo coolant lines, the lines to the throttle body and ISCV and there’s also a couple more around the place too I’ve likely forgotten about. And the lines to and from the heater core which can just be some cheap heater hose from the local hose supplier.
    • Replace all the vacuum hoses that run on top of the engine. These are ones for the ISCV, BOV and PCV. There’s also a PCV hose that runs from the block to the cam cover on the left hand side of the engine. Also check the condition of the accordion inlet hose to the turbo.
    • Replace the rubber hose that goes from the PS reservoir to the PS pump.
    • Swap the engine mounts from the 5M over to the forward locations on the 7M engine. The engine mounts need to bolt directly to the block and all accessories and brackets need to bolt on top of the engine mounts. Left hand side.Right hand side.
    • You need to grind about 3mm (the thickness of the engine mount) off the corner of the air-con bracket where it bolts on top of the LHS engine mount. Here’s a picture showing the area and the proper way to go about it. And here it is bolted on the block.
    • The PS pump bracket/support on the RHS of the engine will also need a little filing at the block end to fit with the engine mount. All you have to do is round a corner off the bracket with a file and it will bolt on.
    • You’ll need to swap the 5M fuel filter bracket off the 5M and put it onto the 7M. Remember you need to install the engine mounts before this step as the filter bracket bolts on top of the engine mounts.
    • Regarding the support bracket for the intake manifold on the LHS which bolts from the manifold to the engine mount. You either use the 7M bracket and it just requires some simple filing like the PS pump bracket on the RHS. Or you use the stock 5M intake support bracket. I can’t really remember sorry. You can see a picture of it step 9.
    • Oil pump, you can either mod the 7M oil pump pickup to suit the front sump (remember 7MGTE pump is suited to a mid sump). Or you can do what I did and simply swap the 5M oil pump directly into the 7M. I suggest checking the oil pump as per the TSRM to make sure tolerances are within spec. You don’t want to put a bung oil pump into your 7MGTE. Rumours about the 7MGTE oil pump having a higher pressure/volume compared to the 5M oil pump are false. Read this.
    • You’ll need to cut the inlet bung off the 7M mid sump and weld it into the side of the 5M front sump. Be mindful of the location you put the bung on the 5M sump as the dipstick is also located in that area and you don’t want the banjo bolt and the dipstick fouling each other, although this is unlikely. This is where I had mine welded in. Another way to do this is to find a MX83 front sump which already has this bung in the sump from factory.
    • Find a location for the oil pressure gauge sensor/feed. See the pictures in the Oil pressure gauge section. It’s much easier to install a sensor now without the engine in the car. Or if it’s a feed to the gauge, put the adapter into the block now.
    • Screw remote oil filter adapter onto the stock oil filter bracket like me or directly to the block. See oil filter section for more details.
    Last edited by Negative Boost; 16-01-2008 at 10:31 PM.

  2. #2
    Kamber King Conversion King Negative Boost's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,158

    Default Re: Sams MA61 7MGTE Conversion Guide

    • Because we are changing from the mid sump to the front sump, we need to relocate the oil dipstick to suit the front sump. There is a small recess in the block towards the front from where the stock dipstick location is on the 7M. This is where the dipstick will be relocated to. To do this, a hole will be drilled through this recess. The way I went about this is drilling from the inside of the block outwards. This way, if you still have all the ancillaries/exhaust/turbo bolted on the engine, you won’t have to remove them to drill this hole.
    If you take the sump off and have a look on the inside of the block you will see a recess in the same spot as the one on the outside. Punch a mark in the dead centre of the recess inside the block, this will be the start of the hole we drill.
    Take the dipstick and tube out of the stock location. Measure the diameter of the stock oil dipstick hole. It should be ~10mm. We made a mistake and measured the OD of the dipstick tube. To cut a long story short, the hole we drilled was too big (10.5mm) and the dipstick tube was a loose fit inside the new hole.

    The second step is to drill a pilot hole through the block. To get the angle of this hole correct, get a long 10mm bolt or rod to put through the stock dipstick hole. You will then use the angle of that bolt/rod to line the drill up to the same angle ready for drilling.

    With this setup, everything was ready for my dad to drill the hole with the electric drill. I was at the front of the engine looking down the block at the angle the drill was at compared to the bolt/rod, correcting the angle of the drill as was needed to match the bolt/rod. Take it slowly and stop if you need to.

    Once the pilot hole is drilled, you can drill the final hole with a drill bit matching the diameter of the stock dipstick hole, which you measured earlier. Again, use the same process of lining up the drill to the same angle of the bolt/rod.

    Once you have the hole drilled, which will be in the centre of the recess on the outside (because you lined everything up), simply put the lower half of the 7M dipstick tube into the newly drilled hole. It should press in nice and tight but it is wise to also use some Loctite Bearing sealant.

    The top half of the oil dipstick tube needs some slight bending/straightening for it to line unto one of the bolt holes on the power steering reservoir. This picture shows how far off the bolt holes are before bending. And after bending, it lines up perfectly. This shows the 7MGTE dipstick located in its new home, securely bolted to the PS reservoir bracket. And yet another picture with everything else installed.

    Block off the old dipstick hole with a 10mm bolt the appropriate length. Because of the small recess into the side of the block, I had to use a Toyota bolt as the heads on the 10mm Toyota bolts are smaller than the heads on aftermarket 10mm bolts, which do not fit into the recess. You may find something else that works though. To seal this off, I used a piece of iron to act as a gasket under the head of the bolt and Loctite.
    • Put the 5M front sump on using a sealant like 3bond or the special Toyota stuff. Do not use a cork gasket, they are evil and leak and require a few re-tourqings every few hundred km’s to stop the leaking.
    • If the 7M engine you’re using was originally an Auto, you’ll need to install a spigot bearing in the end of the crankshaft and remove the spacer which sits behind the auto flex plate. If it was a manual, it’s best to replace this bearing. Put the flywheel on the back of the engine using new flywheel bolts and Loctite.
    • Bolt the new clutch up to the flywheel. Don’t forget to use a clutch alignment tool to get the clutch disc in the correct place when torqueing the pressure plate on. Refer to the TSRM on what torque the pressure plate bolts are.
    • Replace both the front and rear seals on your original transmission. Give it a thorough cleaning, then bolt it up to the back of the engine using some Loctite on the bolts.
    Installation
    • If you removed everything from the engine bay like I did to paint it, its best to re-install the brake booster and MC now along with the brake lines. Also re-install the clutch master cylinder and windscreen wiper motor. It’s best to leave everything else out so it’s easier getting the engine in.
    • To install the engine into the car it’s simply a matter of getting the engine onto a engine hoist and lowering/manoeuvring it into place. Things to take note is that it’s easier to install both motor and gearbox at the same time. Make sure the radiator is out and also the PS rack as you will damage it otherwise. And remove the gearstick from the gearbox. It is easier to have 3 or 4 people helping you get this into the engine bay as to not damage anything.
    • Once it’s in, install the bolts for the engine mounts, bolt up the transmission cross member and re-install the driveshaft. Fill the transmission back up with fluid through shifter hole and re-install shifter. Bolt the clutch master cylinder up to the bell housing and prime the system.
    • Put the steering rack back in after giving it a good clean up. Use the stock 5M line from the PS pump to the rack. Buy some new hose the correct length for the return back to the reservoir.
    • The charcoal canister can be made to fit in the stock location with some bracket bending. And you also need to chop off the lower leg on the bracket. It’s a very tight fit, ~10mm between the charcoal canister and the turbo heat shield, not so very good picture. It’s much better to mount it up near the brake MC so it’s not near the turbo, pic here. Also most states require at least 10mm clearance around the motor to allow for movement.
    • Re-install the radiator along with the new radiator hoses.
    • Install the 7M ignitor and resistor packs next to the fuse box. Also bolt the check connector box close by. Here is how mine are mounted using stock brackets bar a custom bracket for the check connector.
    • The throttle cable will need shortening roughly 20mm (that’s not accurate). For a quick fix, I just looped the throttle cable around and electrical taped it up so it stayed in place. A few months later I cut roughly 20mm of cable off and re-drilled a hole in the lead thing on the end. I then poked the end of the wire through this hole and melted the lead into the wire with a really hot soldering iron. I did this to mock up one before I had a professional one made up to make sure I had the cable length measurements correct. At $45 for a new cable, it’d suck to have the wrong measurement. It turns out my mock-up cable was ~1mm too short. The cable has to have a little slack in it to allow the throttle valve to snap shut and seal. That mock-up cable which was 1mm too short was giving me a high idle of 2000rpm once warm because it wasn’t letting the throttle plate seal shut and air was leaking past.
    • Feed the 7M engine loom through the firewall. I did this with a lot of electrical tape, glade wrap and a piece of string attached to the loom which I fed through the firewall first. Then after a bit of persuasion, it came through and the result.
    • Hook up the vacuum hoses for the heater, heater tap, heater VSV and charcoal canister as per the diagram in this picture.
    • I ran my boost gauge line off the line that feeds the actuator for the auto cruise control. Since my car is manual this was free. If yours is Auto and you are retaining the cruise control, just tap into this line with a T junction. The line then runs through the firewall in the same spot as the oil pressure gauge feed. I like it through the RH side of the firewall because it’s less mess on the LH side with all that wiring there and easier to work with.
    • Install the intercooler up as high as you can. You’ll have to make custom mounts for this. My mounts consisted of 20mm wide strips of 2mm steel. You can see the LHS mount here and the RHS here, note they bolt to stock locations on the intercooler. In this picture, notice how the intercooler doesn’t go below the bottom of the front apron. This is very important for two reasons. 1, less chance of the IC bottoming out on the road and 2, the stock under tray will still fit with a little modification. Then mock up some IC pipes for the system. First time I did this was using as many stock parts as I could. It was pretty dodgy and turned out like this and this in the end but held 10psi (just!). When I fully redid them, I used 2 ¼” mandrel bends bought from a wholesale exhaust shop and custom made the IC pipes myself running the same course as per stock MA70. Here are the pictures, first the setup out of the car, the top, running through the guard and underneath.
    • Bolt the fuel line up to the 5M fuel filter. Buy some new fuel hose for the return from the J tube to the return line back to the tank.
    • Install new heater hoses to the heater core as per this diagram here.
    • Install POD filter and connect any vacuum hoses/pipes that may be disconnected like the PCV, ISCV, BOV, PS vacuum.
    • You can now find a spot to put the remote oil filter. I put mine on the inside RH fender near the AFM. This was just the easiest spot to put it and meant I didn’t have to make any holes through the inside fenders if I was to put it outside of the engine bay. Pictures here and here.
    • Power steering cooler. If you like to go around corners really fast and even do a few track days its really recommended to add a proper cooler into the PS return line. The stock cooler ‘pipe’ just doesn’t quiet cool down the fluid enough and the stock system has been known to fail on the track. So run a line from the outlet at the rack through the radiator support panel where the stock PS cooler pipe used to be and run the lines up to the cooler mounted behind the grill. Then back through the hole and to the reservoir. And added benefit is that you have more volume in the system too.
    • The following pictures best describe how I routed my lines for the oil cooler. I fed them through the same hole in the radiator support panel as the PS cooler lines run through. Then up to the cooler mounted behind the grill on the other side to the PS cooler and back through the hole and down to the bung in the sump.
    • If you’re using a mechanical oil pressure gauge, run the line from the fitting in the block, then keeping it away from where the hot dump pipe will be, through the firewall to the gauge. Pictures in the Oil Pressure gauge section.
    Last edited by Negative Boost; 16-01-2008 at 10:33 PM.

  3. #3
    Kamber King Conversion King Negative Boost's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,158

    Default Re: Sams MA61 7MGTE Conversion Guide

    Wiring

    The wiring is the thing that most people dread because it isn’t as simple as bolting x bracket to the left hand side of the engine. Luckily, an awesome champ from the land to our east (that’s right, NZ) by the name of Andy has created just a guide that tells us to connect x wire to y wire. This is the guide I followed and got the engine fired up the first time. I can’t really give you anymore help but to say that its much easier running wire from the LH side of the cabin to the RH side, with the whole dash out of the car.

    Another thing, the stock 3 pin alternator plug, C, plugs straight onto the 7M alternator, as well as D. But because the alternator lived on the RH side on the 5M and the 7M alternator lives on the LH side, you need to relocate the plugs in the harness. The wires for the alternator run from junction block 3 across under the radiator support panel and then down to the stock alternator location. So I did this by taking out that loom which runs under the radiator support panel and removed the 4 wires out of that loom for the alternator. It’s a bit fiddley but it’s the correct way to do it. Once you’ve taken the wires out of that loom, you’ll have very long wires from the junction block to the alternator right next door. So all you have to do is shorten them to an appropriate length and plug it all together.

    Note that I did not use the 7M fuel pump relay and resistor. I traced the 2 wires from the 5M AFM connector that controlled the fuel pump and connected them together at the Open Circuit Relay. Strangely enough though, even with this not wired up, the fuel pump worked. I think this was because of a previous wiring job from the 6M install.
    Here are some pictures during my wiring mess.


    Other things…

    Repainting the engine bay

    If you’re taking your time doing this swap or have enough time to respray the engine bay, I’d suggest doing it. A lot of dirt and grim builds up over time along with scratches and peeling paint from failed clutch master cylinders…
    I wont go into much detail as there’s not a whole lot to tell. I will show you a few pictures though, here, to help you get the idea.

    Everything in the engine bay needs to be gone. Brake booster, MC & lines, clutch slave & lines, brackets, AC lines and anything else left. Make sure that holes into the firewall have newspaper stuffed in behind them to stop over spray into the cabin. You’ll need to cover the AC line in the firewall and wrap up the steering shaft too. Wrap up the ends of the pipes that lead to the back of the car such as fuel and brake lines.

    Degrease the engine bay and blast it with some water. Then wash it all down with some detergent and make sure you clean the gunk from underneath the battery tray.

    Use 400 grit wet n dry and go over the rough parts of the engine bay. Cover the compliance plates with masking tape and last but not least cover all panels/parts/anything you do not want paint on with newspaper to avoid overspray.

    I used a primer filler in a spray can and sprayed the entire engine bay. Let this dry and then sand down with 400 grit, then 800 grit to give the final finish. You may need to re-apply coats of the primer filler to some surfaces to achieve the desired finish.

    Then spray the engine bay with the paint you’ve chosen using an air gun. I didn’t do this myself so can’t really say much other than be patient and don’t make any runs!
    Then you’re done and you can marvel at the now wonderful looking engine bay.


    Installing a MA70 radiator

    I installed a MA70 radiator because I got one with the engine I bought and at the time saw a few pictures of the MA70 radiators in the MA61 chassis and thought it looked really neat. The cores between MA61 and MA70s are exactly the same though and the only thing that differs are the end tanks.
    The benefits then, of doing this upgrade is a neater, more modern looking radiator. And aftermarket support from companies such as PWR who make MA70 radiators which will then bolt straight in.
    Here are a few pictures of the bracket from the group buy on cs.com. As you can see it’s a simple piece of 90 degree aluminium with two holes drilled out for the lower radiator mount rubbers and another two holes for where it bolts into the chassis where the stock mounts used to be.

    Here’s a picture here and here of my lower radiator bracket when I was making it. Everything needs to be measured carefully when you’re working out where the holes need to be drilled. Here’s a couple of pictures test fitting the radiator in the car so I could mark where to drill the mounting holes in the lower radiator bracket.

    This is a picture of its 2nd version. I found the fan was sitting too close to it and I wanted to fix this. I drilled out the rubber bush holes in the lower radiator bracket a little bit closer to the chassis and pop riveted metal plates in to keep the bush snug (pictures here, here & here). This moves the radiator forward a little bit which gives more clearance between it and the fan. I also elongated the holes in the lower radiator bracket, where it bolts into the chassis to move it to the left a little after noticing it wasn’t quite sitting in the middle in relation to the fan.

    You use the stock MA70 upper radiator mounts and grind off the 5M radiator mounts. New bolt holes need to be drilled in the radiator frame to accommodate these brackets. I had to use aluminium spacers for these upper mounts as seen in this picture here. I don’t know if this is normal or because of the design of my lower bracket. I have only seen 1 other install using these spacers.

    Another way of installing the MA70 radiator is how Suprasman01 did it in the states on cs.com. He used the stock 5M lower mounts and modified them a little. Here’s a quote from him explaining it and a couple pictures.

    Quote:
    Forget the exact combo, but it is the factory 5m lower brackets. I believe that I flipped sides with them and then took the smaller "hooks" off the ends. I also have it offset to afford the room to run the IC pipes past the radiator instead of under it. Had to re-index the factory ends on the actual IC but gives them a nice straight shot to and from the IC that way.

    http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/J-PhabrandomAuto033.jpg

    http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/DSC02180.jpg


    Brake upgrade

    When upgrading the power and especially when installing a newer turbo engine into a car like ours it is wise to upgrade the brakes at the same time. Not just for safety but for engineering requirements.
    My brake upgrade consisted of installing R33 GTST brakes to the front of my car. If you read this thread here, you’ll understand how it works and what needs to be done.
    I found a pair of callipers and rotors on eBay for a good price and got the rotors machined to give a fresh new face. Luckily the pads in the callipers were nearly brand new and the pistons and dust boots looked to be in good condition. So after a clean up of the pads, pins and pad retainers to get all the muck off them I painted the callipers red.
    I bought some new brake lines 3 inches longer down at Cable Mate for about $80 and after getting the hubs machined, longer studs fitted and rotors re-drilled it was all ready to bolt together using Cruzida’s kit. I suggest either cleaning and repacking the bearings in the hubs or getting new bearings all together while the hubs are off the car. Picture of them fitted behind 17” wheels.



    Websites on the MA61 and 7MGTE conversion





    Let me know if there are any mistakes but i've gone through it a couple of times and i think i've got them all!

    Hope this helps a few toymodders.

    Cheers
    Sam
    Last edited by Negative Boost; 16-01-2008 at 10:35 PM.

  4. #4
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    vic
    Posts
    1,196

    Default Re: Sams MA61 7MGTE Conversion Guide

    Great thread
    Dont listen to internet shit about the oil pumps tho , there is like 10 different oil pumps for M series engine 7MGTE being the largest volume of them all .
    Use a 5m pump on a old 7mgt and it will end up spinning a bearing .
    Dave

  5. #5
    Kamber King Conversion King Negative Boost's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,158

    Default Re: Sams MA61 7MGTE Conversion Guide

    Fair enough, didn't know there was that many different oil pumps for the M engines. I always keep an eye on my oil pressure guage and when cold i get ~60psi and when warm ~5psi at idle. Warm at 3000rpm is ~30psi.

  6. #6
    Junior Member 1st year Apprentice
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    29

    Default Re: Sams MA61 7MGTE Conversion Guide

    Call me crazy but that seams a little on the low side. What weight oil are you running? I've never owned anything that ever got below 30psi. 302 idles warm at 30-35psi, and driving around 40-45psi (10W-30), and my 20/22R idles warm at 40-45psi, and driving 60-70psi (15W-50)
    73 Celica (New track car) - 20/22R Hybrid, caged, built suspension, AE86 brakes, 5 speed, 155 rwhp, 165 rwtq all motor!
    86 Crown Vic (Old track car) - 5.0L HO, 2.5: dual exhuast, 5 speed, TruTrac 3.55, race suspension, race seats, grandma track car turned tow vehicle.

  7. #7
    "it went up in a jiffy" Conversion King Kedderz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    SA
    Posts
    2,280

    Default Re: Sams MA61 7MGTE Conversion Guide

    great write up negative boost ;-), alot of this can be used for mx73 conversions also!

    +rep
    RA23 - Twincharged
    JZZ20 - Daily

  8. #8
    Kamber King Conversion King Negative Boost's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,158

    Default Re: Sams MA61 7MGTE Conversion Guide

    Quote Originally Posted by blaze86vic
    Call me crazy but that seams a little on the low side. What weight oil are you running? I've never owned anything that ever got below 30psi. 302 idles warm at 30-35psi, and driving around 40-45psi (10W-30), and my 20/22R idles warm at 40-45psi, and driving 60-70psi (15W-50)
    Its actually fine if you check the TSRM. And my 3000rpm pressure may be a little higher than 30psi as i havn't driven the car for a while and i don't try and remember these things when ive got alot more important things on my mind.

  9. #9
    Junior Member 1st year Apprentice
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    29

    Default Re: Sams MA61 7MGTE Conversion Guide

    I'm no Toyota expert, so I'm not saying there is a problem. But my 302 did have those exact pressures at one time. And I later discovered I had melted a piston. I concluded that I had fine oil pressure, but I think the extra heat from the melting piston (bad injector so running very lean) was thinning the oil enough to cause the low pressure. Luckily I replaced the piston and the bearings for that rod before it did any real damage.
    73 Celica (New track car) - 20/22R Hybrid, caged, built suspension, AE86 brakes, 5 speed, 155 rwhp, 165 rwtq all motor!
    86 Crown Vic (Old track car) - 5.0L HO, 2.5: dual exhuast, 5 speed, TruTrac 3.55, race suspension, race seats, grandma track car turned tow vehicle.

  10. #10
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    vic
    Posts
    1,196

    Default Re: Sams MA61 7MGTE Conversion Guide

    Lots of 7M,s have a hot idle of about 7 psi . Its mainly due to the design of the oil pump , They are a flow pump not so much a pressure pump.
    Dave

  11. #11
    Junior Member 1st year Apprentice
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    29

    Default Re: Sams MA61 7MGTE Conversion Guide

    Ahhhh, ok. Good to know, thanks!
    73 Celica (New track car) - 20/22R Hybrid, caged, built suspension, AE86 brakes, 5 speed, 155 rwhp, 165 rwtq all motor!
    86 Crown Vic (Old track car) - 5.0L HO, 2.5: dual exhuast, 5 speed, TruTrac 3.55, race suspension, race seats, grandma track car turned tow vehicle.

  12. #12
    Longs to be a Conversion King RObErT_RaTh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    2,505

    Default Re: Sams MA61 7MGTE Conversion Guide

    Duuuuuude, only just found this! FINALLY! A complete and utter thorough guide! Top work, as soon as I can you're getting some reptastic goodness

  13. #13
    不良少年 Backyard Mechanic Brett's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    208

    Default Re: Sams MA61 7MGTE Conversion Guide

    Awesome guide, now I'll just have to wait for you to do a 1-UZ swap before me

  14. #14
    Kamber King Conversion King Negative Boost's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,158

    Default Re: Sams MA61 7MGTE Conversion Guide

    Hahaha, that'd be an insane write-up. But one day it shall be done!

  15. #15
    Toymods V8 Member Too Much Toyota CrUZida's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    8,214

    Default Re: Sams MA61 7MGTE Conversion Guide

    I've also done one (well, a couple) of these conversions.

    The things I did different are as follows.

    I used a JDM 5MGE front sump/pump/pickup. Sump already had bung attached for oil return.
    I used stock oil filter elbow rotated 45deg, but did not use remote oil filter kit.

    I used a 7MGE flywheel and a ~900kg clutch.

    I reused the 5ME dipstick and tube. I had no idea the 7M one was the correct length.

    Throttle cable didn't require modding, I just had to be clever with how it was attached. Worked perfectly.

    Wiring the fuel pump up is very simple.
    The stock 5ME setup goes from the ECU to the AFM, and then from the AFM to the Circuit Opening Relay (COR)
    All you do is reuse one of these wires from the old ECU to the old AFM for the Fuel Pump output from the 7MGTE ECU (can't remember if its FP or FC) and then at the AFM plug locate this same wire, and locate the wire that goes to the COR, solder them together and you are done.
    Fuel pump will be wired up as per factory.
    I too didn't bother with the 7M relay or resistor.

    Something else to note with wiring is that the 5ME ECU does NOT get an IG+ (+12v) signal going to it. The IG pin on the 5ME ECU plug stops working after the 5ME coil is removed.


    I also replaced pretty much all of the rubber on the motor (hoses, seals, gaskets, etc).
    Well worth it. Car starts every time, idles perfect regardless of ambient temp or engine temp.
    Runs as smooth as silk.

    Apart from that, most things are the same.
    Sure there are many ways to skin a cat, but there are only a couple of ways to do it effectively.
    Peewee
    1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
    2013 86 GTS

Similar Threads

  1. Sam's MA61 7MGTE Conversion
    By Negative Boost in forum Engine & Driveline Conversions
    Replies: 275
    Last Post: 09-11-2006, 11:08 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •