3T GTE Tech

[73GTV]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MBbKWU5SU_Q
because I was interested.

[AE25]

unless you have the complete efi bits, unbutchered wiring, ecu etc then go aftermarket. so much more adaptable to mods.

[AE25]

If anyone has used an upgraded or heavy duty clutch and has part numbers handy, can they please post it I'm compiling a list of aftermarket stuff available for the 3tgte.
cheers

[73GTV]

This is dull, lets take this into a different direction, lets remove that turbo and fabricate a mount for a supercharger like for example this one.

http://www.paxtonauto.com/product.ph...57#parts_table

This has been a thought for a while . To get rid of that big distributor and make to crank trigger mods that have been already posted and fabrication of a mounting bracket that aids in mounting this system and drive pulley requirements. If done correctly then running a nice extractor or Header in the engine bay would give this a cleaner look, less plumbing and the stock low compression pistons can be used.

I put this out for brain storming and both positive and negative feedback to see what problems are for this. with so many sets of eyes and clever minds, this group can accomplish anything.

Next topic (complete 3TG wire loom) I believe I now own one which is being shipped with the ecu and I know that I now own the manuals to show the proper connection points for this stored with my stuff from a recent move. so patience will be required until I have time to un-pack.

[ToyTA22]

If anyone has used an upgraded or heavy duty clutch and has part numbers handy, can they please post it I'm compiling a list of aftermarket stuff available for the 3tgte.
cheers

I have a Exedy Sports Tuff Clutch Kit part no. TYK-6311HD, Pressure plate number TYC538HD, disk TYD094U. Kit includes throw out bearing.

[AE25]

I have a Exedy Sports Tuff Clutch Kit part no. TYK-6311HD, Pressure plate number TYC538HD, disk TYD094U. Kit includes throw out bearing.

cheers ToyTA22. whats your impression of the clutch? heavy on the foot? abused it much? how much power is it holding? oh and did the throw out bearing have it's own carrier or did it need to be fitted to the original W5# bearing carrier? know part number if carrier included? thanks if you can answer.

I see in the exedy clutch finder it lists all the applicable models/engines that fit this clutch kit. ie Lots! nice to know.
http://www.exedy.com.au/clutch-finder (TYK-6311HD)
But more interestingly, the 225mm clutch cover also fits the following, which could open up interchangeable oddities for flywheels if the crank bolt pattern, location spigot and ring gear are a match?
mitsi 4G54 or G54B
mazda H20A
suzuki H20A H25A & J20A
Nissan CA20E



I'm using a repco supplied Clutch Industries HD organic 225mm kit for a hilux. I'm thrashing this thing and it's holding up fine. 3rd gear burnouts with at least 200hp im guessing. T28 on 14psi intercooled etc.

[73GTV]

unless you have the complete efi bits, unbutchered wiring, ecu etc then go aftermarket. so much more adaptable to mods.

[jayhasata22]

Looking to buy 3tgte complete motor or including gearbox but optional. Please send me a msg if anyone has one willing to sell. Located vic 3550 but can pay shipping. Cheers guys

[73GTV]

After getting rid of my original std ECU, i found it easier when i bought a haltech ecu to wire up, to be able to diagnose issues in wiring eg what is working RPM triggers and signal to fuel pumps...etc.
Using the software that goes with them really gives you an insight of what is working.
A std ecu tells you no info and i was chasing my tail trying to diagnose the fault.
Also it future proofs yr build. You may want bigger turbo, bigger injectors.
Most std ecu may run on old flat type air flow meters, which can be bulky in engine bays. You get rid of those things.
After market ECU's are not hard to play with, just research different types for your needs and skill level.
You learn to mix and match parts when the original parts become scarce.. its not a bad thing to upgrade...

My skill level is basic, so i went for a Haltech EK6, very cheap should be under $300 in my books. old software DOS.
Then i went to Haltech sprint 500, so easy to manage, not too many extra features i wont need. software easy and up to date.
i paid 700 for my sprint with harness. that was cheap. But in saying that you can pick them up easier now.
Haltech allow you to tune yr car yourself, You should be able to find a base map easy enough, while other ECU brands may need to be sent back for them to load a tuning map.

just my thoughts.
also its a fun learning curb.

Any updates ?

[73GTV]

Well I just read this complete thread from front to back and It has answered a lot of my questions that I had so far. I am surprised that the traffic back to this thread has dried up. I guess it is true that people are not posting on forums as much anymore, and have traded this towards "F_ce-B_ok. That plus trying to keep a thirty year old plus engine running since 80% of the parts are now un-available. But I will not give up on either...

[Diz44zy]

Needing some advice on my 3tgte. It was rebuilt by YelloRolla about 5 years ago. Sat around for ages then I decided to get it going. It started blowing smoke after breaking it in and now have noticed oil pooling in the intake and sludge accumulating in the sump. How do I diagnose this. What is the likely cause?


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[73GTV]

Needing some advice on my 3tgte. It was rebuilt by YelloRolla about 5 years ago. Sat around for ages then I decided to get it going. It started blowing smoke after breaking it in and now have noticed oil pooling in the intake and sludge accumulating in the sump. How do I diagnose this. What is the likely cause?

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Compression test results?

You have let this engine set for a while so now you have to start all over again, troubleshoot this engine as if your rings have not set during break-in and do enough of a tear-down of your turbo to make sure that it has not taken a dump.

Slight rust, etc, no lubrication before cranking, etc etc...

[Diz44zy]

Ended up handing it over to my mechanic. Asked him to do leak down and compression tests.


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[AE25]

disconnecting the cam breather and block breather from the intake system will tell you if blowby is causing the smoke. Assuming a little.. it could be block pressure causing turbo oil system issues.

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[73GTV]

disconnecting the cam breather and block breather from the intake system will tell you if blowby is causing the smoke. Assuming a little.. it could be block pressure causing turbo oil system issues.

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You are correct, however having blow-by and still not looking at your compression numbers, limits your knowledge of if you have stuck rings due to gunk solidified in the ring grooves not allowing your rings to seat properly. A tear-down inspection should have been performed after blowing oil was detected.