ARP Fixings - How do I determine what I'll need?

**Howieau** · 26-05-2007, 06:13 PM

In rebuilding my 3sgte, how do I determine what ARP fixings I'll need?

I was scanning over the ARP site and theyve got such a big variety, I wouldn't know where to start. http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Catalog.html

I'm hoping for around 200awkw when the engine is done, running about 19+ psi through forged internals with a comp ratio of about 8.8:1 roughly if that helps at all. I understand that I'll need head studs/bolts, but am not too sure on much else. What bolt sets would I be best off getting?

Edit: Also will I/should I need to replace any bearings even if they're in good shape?

**Mr Revhead** · 26-05-2007, 06:31 PM

to be honest i think rod bolts is all you need, if even that
use stock bits, they are cheap.
200 atw on a 3sgte is pretty mild.
id only use ARP head bolts if your plannng on taking the ehad off a few times.

**Forcefed6** · 26-05-2007, 07:02 PM

At a minimum, I would fit a set of ARP head bolts to get good clamp on the head. The toyota bolts should be replaced each time anyway. Rod bolts are not really necessary unless you intend on big revs from the engine.

Bearings.... Do them too, they are only cheap, even for good bearings like King bearings.

**Howieau** · 26-05-2007, 08:39 PM

Is 7000rpm considered big revs?

**Forcefed6** · 26-05-2007, 08:43 PM

I would not think so. What is the standard redline of a 3SGTE?

I rev my engine (1GGTE) happily to 8000rpm, as do many other people, and some beyond that...

**Howieau** · 26-05-2007, 08:46 PM

Standard redline is 7000rpm

What factors allow you to push it further? Lighter internals?

**Forcefed6** · 26-05-2007, 08:49 PM

More comes to airflow needed for the engine (ie larger cams etc).

There is generally no need to push it any harder than needed, especially if it still has standard cams.

The power you are hoping for is quite within reach with only minor mods I would imagine.

**EldarO** · 26-05-2007, 08:58 PM

Originally Posted by Howieau

Standard redline is 7000rpm

What factors allow you to push it further? Lighter internals?

think about how a motor works.

as the piston goes up, the crank needs to slow it down to pull it back down, so theres extra pressure on the bearings and rod end caps (i think they're called? meh) so yes, lighter internals will give less of a strain on the crank, and all the other bitties.

and thats only bottom end, top end is another kettle of fish all together (shim and buckets and bucket over shims and a whole bunch of shit i dont understand and wont, for the life of me comment on).

Elmo.

**Howieau** · 26-05-2007, 09:11 PM

My forged pistons will be alot lighter than the stock pistons, plus I already have the head ported and polished with big cams put it. I think theyre roughly 9mm lift intake/exhaust.

I wonder if I could rev mine out further.

**slide86** · 26-05-2007, 09:51 PM

well, when i rebuilt my 4agze i used new ARP headstuds, main studs and big end bolts.

you should replace all the bearings and rings if you want to do it right.

get the engine measured for tolerences and have all rotating parts balanced.

this will make for a strong base, and you should see 200!

**-==L=a=N=c=E==-** · 27-05-2007, 06:24 AM

IMHO, with the price of the ARP offerings, i'd just buy ARP everything (head, rod, main, fly). I know thats what i did when i rebuilt my 3S, and i was only aiming for 300awkw.

The only down side, is if you get the ARP main bolts, that they have clearance issues on the last main cap and the sump. The sump will need to be clearanced.

Also, with the price of bearings (we're talking $200-300 all up) i'd replace the lot. Especailly since you only ever plan to rebuild the engine once. Do it right the first time.

**Mr Revhead** · 27-05-2007, 07:54 AM

what ecu are you going to use?
i know of several sw20s running 18psi on stock gen 2 engines running in the 12s....
cant recall the dyno figures of then but iirc it was around 280ish hp atw.

my point is if your going aftermarket ecu, forged pistons, head work and cams id be looking for rather a bit more than 200kw thats roughly only an increase of 50kw
what cars it going in?

**jeffro ra28** · 27-05-2007, 09:10 AM

19+ psi. head bolts for sure.
A set of rod bolts will set you back 50-$100. Thats cheap security to me.

**Howieau** · 27-05-2007, 02:55 PM

Thanks for everyones inputs,

Its going into a ST185 Celica GT4. Im aiming for 200awkw at a bare minimum!
Ive set my standards low though because Ive seen other people do similar mods and only achieve around 200 awkw.

Like joel for example;http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=184
I read somewhere he was only getting 200kw from his 3s, and look at the mods he has! His is rear wheel too Id imagine, and im awd.