1JZ ECU capacitor replacement info

[driftae71]

i actually bought the car already 1j and running and have not delved into any troubleshooting or anything like that as this is my first problem besides it using lotsa fuel compared to my 121 lol...

[big_zop]

its just off the side of the inlet manifold for the 1J and on the passenger side strut tower for the 7M - small box with a flip open lid saying 'DIAGNOSTIC'

[driftae71]

i come screaming for help if i cant fix it lol

+rep thanks guys

[big_zop]

Its the light grey box in between the engine oil dipstick and the power steering fluid reservior.

[Sciflyer]

Any ECU with Nichicon branded capacitors on the board, from around that era.

Its not really just the brand as all electrolytic caps die sooner or later, particularily if they are in a hot environment or are running close to the limit of their specs

Certainly would be more common in cars over say 20 years old

[TERRA Operative]

When you replace them, if you make sure they're the 105 degree rated caps, they'll last MUCH longer than the usual 80~ish degree rated caps.

[mamba]

Did mine today. I can't recommend it enough, like Ribfeast said you can't really see if they are leaking untill you take them out. 3 of mine were completely stuffed, had to clean the PCB board up a bit too.
Cold start is much better now, plus my annoying code 13 is gone now too!

Do it before it screws the board and tracks!

[urantia]

well i am pretty certain stuffed caps are the reason the supra died on me in the middle of nowhere awhile ago.

Luckily i had a multi meter on me and found what i believe to be one of the wires from the/to the EFI relay to only be showing 3.6ish volts.

I bypassed the wire supplying the low voltage and connected the wire straight to the battery for the full 12volts it needed and was on my way (after 3 hours and tearing my car to shreds to check dodgy wiring etc)

Later i tried to figure out why it was gettign shit all voltage from that wire and i never found out why. But the more i think about it the more i suspect its the caps in the ECU. will let u's know if that sort it out.

[JP]

I've got two dead JZX81 ECU's here that have had the transistor /resistor that drive the MREL trigger give out. Both also had leaky caps, the transistor is a surface-mount component and is consequently a PIA to replace with a normal soldering iron and associated tools. If you hard-wire the EFI Main relay on, both ECU's work fine.

[wilbo666]

I've got two dead JZX81 ECU's here that have had the transistor /resistor that drive the MREL trigger give out. Both also had leaky caps, the transistor is a surface-mount component and is consequently a PIA to replace with a normal soldering iron and associated tools. If you hard-wire the EFI Main relay on, both ECU's work fine.

SMD stuff is easy enough to work with normal irons if you know how

Two irons are helpful for component removal tho at times!

Happy to lend my skills in this area if you need / give a lesson

Cheers
Wilbo

[urantia]

well i replaced my caps with jap caps from RS, mix of nichicon, rubycon and panasonic.

most of the caps were indeed farked, but someone had obviously been here before. There was a 10UF phillips cap in place of wheret the old 15uf nichicon should of been! and some no name caps were installed aswell -

I replaced the whole lot, tried the supra out still got the same problem dam!! BUT the car is much smoother! the idle problem is fixed and the engine is just much smoother! power felt better too! but then it got a bit worse as the ECU relearned -

after boosting i smelt a stinky burning smell (not clutch or tires) could be my cat maybe? anyway that's for another thread.

Still got 4x sets of these caps as i had to order a minimum of 5 for everything. (if anyone is interested)

[Arthur]

Put me down for a set. Postage to 2100. Send PM for cost and details.

[rogue-vl]

i'll grap a set too PM details postage to 2470 NSW

[petergoudie]

To remove the solder buy a spring loaded solder sucker from Jaycar or dick smith. These have a teflon nozzle that you stick in the molten solder; press the spring button and all the solder is sucked up. About $15 to 20.

[Jt_70R]

anyone know if a JZA70 Blitz Access ECU will chuck error codes? Mine has had (some?) caps replaced, still giving all sorts of grief. Cant seem to get error codes out however.