Hey guys im at a loss to help a mate,he had a shitty radiator in his car and it always ran hot since his conversion so we made him up one using a cut down commodore rad. This thing is massive, its triple core and dual pass but the bloody car is still running hotIm starting to think it may be running lean but wasnt sure if this is possible with the stock computer?
Is it something that can be adjusted with the air flow meter or should we be looking at injectors or somthing else? I dont know about these engines but if we make him a bigger rad it will be sticking out of the bonnet
Any help will be greatly appreciated,
cheers
Nath
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firstly i would actually look at the engine compentents to justify your diagnoses... (my head hurting saying that sentence)..
basically check the plugs for unusual white colouring, check the o2 sensor, maybe get your hands on a rich/lean gauge that wires into the o2 sensor (there always handy to have anyways) and go from there.. basically if the motor was running lean to the point where the motor is running hot then it wouldnt be running right and / or it would be pinging...
you tried flushing the block and putting in a lower temperature thermostat?
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Check the timing i.e. crank and cams alignment and also check the timing at idle with a light. It could be retarded and causing it to get hot.
My KE25 thread
WSID - 12.8@108mph || Wakefield Park - 1:11.4 || SDMA Hillclimb - 49.3
So just get a timing light onto it then,how would the cams get out of timing?I take it the head would have to have been off at some stage..
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CHEAP 450-300-75MM INTERCOOLERS $100
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/jus...ml#post1417182
Yeah timing light for the static timing value at idle, just find out what pins you have to bridge on the diagnostic port to lock the timing (assuming this is runing a stock ECU).
Less likely but still worth checking first is the cam timing. Just remove the top plastic cam wheel cover and then line up the crank at TDC using the mark on the harmonic balancer and then check that both cams line up with the timing marks on them and the backing plate.
The cam timing can be out for many reasons so it's worth checking and ruling it out and it'll only take 5 min to check. Even something as simple as parking the car in forward gear and having the car parked on a hill where it wants to roll backwards and hence rotate the engine backwards can cause the belt to slip a tooth.
My KE25 thread
WSID - 12.8@108mph || Wakefield Park - 1:11.4 || SDMA Hillclimb - 49.3
If its running lean enough to make it run hot then the ecu should be throwing an o2 sensor code.
Are you sure its running hot?
With a massive radiator and no thermostat it should run cold, not hot.
Is the thermostat even opening?
Does it run hot at idle, traffic lights, cruising, highway, under WOT, etc?
All good guys,he didnt put a thermostat in like I had asked.
The thing now sits at 85 all the time![]()
-Just Alloy Radiators-
www.alloyradiators.com.au
CHEAP 450-300-75MM INTERCOOLERS $100
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/jus...ml#post1417182
My KE25 thread
WSID - 12.8@108mph || Wakefield Park - 1:11.4 || SDMA Hillclimb - 49.3
-Just Alloy Radiators-
www.alloyradiators.com.au
CHEAP 450-300-75MM INTERCOOLERS $100
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/jus...ml#post1417182
85 degrees is a good temperature.. good stuff!