Nut from hell - AE92 driveshaft nut

[Grega]

Hey folks

Any ideas on how to remove the 30mm nut from the driveshaft (essentiall holds the upright to the hub/driveshaft) on my AE92?

I've hit it with RP7/WD40/Stitch0/rattle gun but no comey offy.
I havent tried heat (as yet)

I could crack it with a 6ft breaker bar - but it still "rotates" and hence won't come off?

Unless I do it with someone in car with foot on brake and car on ground?

Any ideas?

[Duk]

Hand brake on, chock all the wheels and attack it with that 6 foot bar you have.

[takai]

1" rattlegun w 190psi.

[psychofox]

yeah I had one of these basically felt like it was welded on - ended up borrowing a 3/4 rattlegun and it came off. The best bet to start with is always to try and loosen them on the ground with someone standing on the brakes.

[Grega]

plonka. yup. i reckon that will work
chris. i dun wanna put the thing into a geostationary orbit mate
psychofox ; last i tried car was on stands ; so ; gheyness applied.
now that its on the ground will get SWMBO to stand on brakes with handbrake on and see how we go.
thanks guys

[takai]

Yeah, i must say the halfcut i did it with a rope tied to the towbar of another car around the dash bracket, and then attacked it with a 5m extended breaker bar. Took 2 Snap-On breakers to loose it (first one snapped just past the head)

[IN 05 NT]

yeah out the wheel back on,drop it on the ground, then have a crack,

had the same prob with a honda FULLY sick accord!

[Grega]

thats the plan, will see how we go.
the balljoint ain't that flogged ; but ; i've replaced one may as well replace the other

[jezza323]

yeah, take centre caps out of wheels, put car on ground, in gear, handbrake on, person in car holding the brakes on

get your longest breaker bar with pipe on the end and go for it

otherwise just get 3/4" rattle gun and make sure there is plenty of pressure behind it

[merc-blue]

i have the same problem with the ones in the rear of BMWs,
They have a locking ring that you cant actually get out, so you get a 1" and slowly increase the pressure until it straightens out the lock ring..
just make sure your going in the right direction can have some pretty funny results otherwise

[legend]

hit it with a flat cold chisel in 3 places then tighten slightly then "hopefully" it will undo

[Dale]

get someone to apply the brakes and put something between two of the wheel studs so when rotated anti clockwise it fouls on the ground and stops the hub from turning (a large prybar or extension does well), the combination of that then get a nice long bit of pipe over the end of a breaker bar and you'll get it

normally just something between the studs is good enough, but on tough ones I like to use a combination of the two to lessen the risk of breaking a stud

[piggy]

get someone to apply the brakes and put something between two of the wheel studs so when rotated anti clockwise it fouls on the ground and stops the hub from turning (a large prybar or extension does well), the combination of that then get a nice long bit of pipe over the end of a breaker bar and you'll get it

normally just something between the studs is good enough, but on tough ones I like to use a combination of the two to lessen the risk of breaking a stud

yes dale and i have used this quiet a few times on our cars and it works really well

[Lachie]

Done it twice on my car and there a piece of piss (3 times if you count the passeneger side).

First time I had two people so we jacked the car up and stood on the brakes while the nut was undone.

The second time I took the wheel centre off and cracked with the car on the ground and the handbrake on. From memory I used a big long bar clamp over a ratchet as a breaker bar They really weren't that hard to do each time, and each time they were torqued correctly.

As far as putting something between the studs and ,letting it hit the ground I reckon there a good chance of bending studs if the nut is really tight. Depends on the lever length obviously, but I wouldn't reccommend it, specially when there are better ways of stopping the shaft rotating

[Grega]

thanks all for the feedback here ; i'll give it a shot this weekend (if i'm not working)

[TooF]

im not a fan of trying to jam the studs, simply pop the centre cap off, remove the cotter pin and put the car back on the ground.. get your mate to stand on the brakes and undo it when the car on the ground, ive never had grief this way.. you can virtaulyl apply as much pressure as you want to it and the car/driveshaft wont move.

if required you can obvisouly mix this with the combination of impact wrench but certainly do it on the ground dont go jamming the studs you only risk damaging the studs.

[BeRad]

ohh yer 3/4 rattlegun, theres not much it wont undo .

[HAVABEER]

with the wheel off i've jammed a big F-off flat head screw driver between 2 of the studs and the break caliper so the hub can't rotate. nut comes off *easy with a breaker bar.


* by easy i mean me standing on the end of the breaker bar, when your 6ft tall and weigh 63kg brute strength aint my strong point

[Grega]

i'm 40kg up on u havabeer so i'll prolly break studs, caliper, nut, the whole shooting match
anyway slackarse me didn't get to do it ; did to the brakes on the mrs car though

[nick.parker]

I understand your pain, took me ages to get my hub nut off too. Don't know if this will work for you. 3 feet of pipe on the handle of my socket and me gently bouncing my whole body weight (87kg) after several attempts got it though. Thought my socket might shatter so I had old clothes wrapped around it incase. Needed the HBrake on, foot brake on, car in 5th and car was _partially_ supported by a jack. At first I kept lifting the car via the jackstand before I figured out to hook under the stud. Then atleast you have two studs instead on one taking the strain.

Cheers, Nick

PS: Put some anti seize on the thread before you put the nut back on (once you get it off ).