Ok i have a 3s gte in a ra28 celica worked engine running 20 pounds of boost just wanting to get some ideas of oils and thickness that other people use and why?
Also some times people say oil filters make a differance any thoughts and types/sizes of filters would be good to know to.
Hey mate, in my 3s-gte I am running a Castrol racing oil, 10w-60. I think maybe its called Edge now, but when I last purchased it was just castrol racing.
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/produ...tentId=7013360
I picked that mainly because I wanted a synthetic oil but something a bit thicker as the engine will see a lot of track days and subject to a lot of heat so figure a 60 oil would be better hopefully not thin out quite so much.
I use a geniune toyota oil filter.
Cheers
Joel
1977 RA28 Celica - 1MZ-FE Members Rides
No other rides.. All sold.
Email : joel_fitzgerald@hotmail.com
Most of the time oils and viscosities are a personal preference , We could argue all day long about it
Personally i only run Repsol Oils in the Lexus V8 and use Redline Synthetics in my 7MGTE Soarers.
Look at a decent 15w/40 oil
Only use a Genuine Toyota Filter![]()
With the oil filter, just get a Toyota one for your engine, they are the best.
I personally was using Mobil 1 5w50 in my 1GGTE, and I figured so long as it wasn't burning it, I would keep using it. I've now got 10w40 Mobil Synth S due to budget reasons![]()
Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association
I used castrol formula R 0W-40 and 5W-30. Good everday oil i reckon. Depending on the season.
Oil filters really doesn't matter. I just grab a 4pack of valvoline filters. Does the trick.
Really at the end of the day, oils are basically all the same.
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I use shell helix ultra 15w-50 full synthetic. I only use toyota oil filters as i get them for about $12 each.
if true, this is actually a good reason to use the yota oil filters. they provide less restriction to oil flow.
i just spent $80 on mobile 1 10w-30 what a waste of money, thin like water, knock knock in the morning until warm, i'm going straight back to soemthing thicker. and less expensive.
yeah apperently their is this site called bobistheoilguy.com their is info on their just a pain finding it. I just thought i'd post this up due to coming up to an oil change and wanting to know a few more options. As far as the oil in my car at the moment i have no idea been playing with it too much and not enough driving but this weekend i thinks its time to change
I use Penrite HPR-15 in the 7MGTE, never a knock or any strange sound.
Mate who reccomended it to me uses it in all of his turbo cars, which includes a 1JZ supra, running 13psi.
Eldar.O.
i'll give that penrite a try, they make excellent lsd oil imho.
mate on boost you should not run oil that is too thin. Otherwise its gonna burn too fast.
If i was you i'd run at least a 50W. Mobile 1 has the 5-50w that would be the minimum used. Otherwise maybe even 10-60w as your engine get very hot being a turbo
while mobile 1 is considered too thin anyway.
a thin oil is usually what is recomended for turbo cars, 10w-30 is recommended pretty much across the board on most japanese turbo motors. But of course as the kms get up, the engine is going to get worn and require a thicker oil. In my opinion a 50 weight it abit thick for a turbo to digest. The reason i tried the 10w30 is the engine has pretty low k's on it , and supercheap here in tas did not have a great selection. a 15-40 sounds like the go (which also is what the redline site suggest for this motor)
Anyone switched from Penrite to Penrite SIN ?
any comments/thoughts on it.
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-Andrew
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A race continues forever...
I have had first hand experience with BP corse plus in my 3sgte running over 30 lbs boost for two years and putting out up to 400rwhp , when I pulled the motor down there were no sign of wear on any of the bearings , they still looked like new and could have been reused , so I will stay with BP corse plus as it has proven itself , I also use only genuine oil filters .
Trevor
Thin oils in new hitech engines are good, but a 3gte usually takes a 25-50w.
The first rating is for cold viscosity while the last is when its hot.
Its the hot rating at matters the most. You will note that most of the stock turbos only have max 10-12 psi of boost. On a wild setup there should be thicker oil to be able to handle the extra heat.
All engines are designed with certain tolerances for any metal-metal moving parts that rely on the oil have a certain viscosity in order to provide an effective film between the components. If you run an oil which is 'thicker' because you expect it to need to handle extra heat, then essentially - any time where you *don't* have that extra heat in the oil you *could* be wearing down certain bearings/rings/cam lobes etc.
If your oil temperature is getting very high - you should try and solve the oil temperature problem - rather than just chuck a thicker oil in that will effectively operate at the higher temperature. Ie - fit an oil cooler.
Plus on top of that - whilst the oil may be thicker at the specified SAE temperature - the drop off in viscosity once the temperature starts climbing even further will pretty much ensure that your engine doesn't get the lubrication it needs, and it will suffer from increased bearing wear or even seizure.
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Trevor, yeah i've used BP Corse Plus in a 3t-gte for some time and bearings looked good when it was pulled down. That was 20w-60 from memory?
BP Corse Plus is 20W-50
Probably about as thick as you would want to go, probably a bit too thick for a freshly rebuilt engine too.
If there's one thing I know, it's never to mess with mother nature, mother in-laws and mother freaking Ukrainians