Mr RA23 raises a very valid point!
I'll do some investigations into the depth the oil SHOULD be in an 18RC and compare it to what it should be for an 18R-G... and what the 33012 dipstick reads when used in an 18R-G.
As for Mr RA 28 here....
well buddy i certainly hope to see it out at dubbo!
I dont think i'll be finishing my 18R-GTE for Dubbo this year, but i'll have a shotI'll definitely be on for next year though!
I'll also be interested to see how your cams perferm with the combination you are using.
...... butt scratcher?!
Sorry Witzl, I spoke to soon. Even though there is an issue with the part numbers of the dipstick, the actual depth appears to be the same. I overfilled it with oil because I got the conversion between quarts and litres wrong :-(
Anyway, I drained it and filled it again with the proper amount and it is spot on with the 18RC stick.
Oh well... that saves me a whole heap of effort then!!
I've got a few more useful parts to photograph and post up, along with some more information that's of good use.
...... butt scratcher?!
Originally Posted by Steve M
Block breather? Where be the block breather? Does anyone have a pic?
No, my inspection cover is definitely an 88210 item on an 88210 head. There just isn't any king of inspection cover gasket in the kit.
That is the plate with the bit of pipe sticking out just above the oil filter. BTW the gasket is toyota part no 11273-33010Originally Posted by tricky
also, a VRS set is nothing below the head, the definition of VRS is Valve Regrind Set, so theres a VRS, which has HG, VSS, manifold gaskets ect ect
and a Full gasket set, which has the same but also has sump/timing cover ect ect
JZX83+ FMIC+ Twin 2.5" dumps to 3"+ FCD+ 2800rpm stallie+ 14psi - LSD - good tyres = 12.85 @105.58
The boobs are back
The plate covering the aux shaft? Mine doesn't have a breather from here, just a plate...Originally Posted by RA23
Mr DOHC, I should add that the list I made of gaskets not included applies to the full gasket set, part no. GK690, as opposed to the VRS, DK690.
Steve, my block breather gasket (If we are indeed speaking of the same thing) was a piece of piss to get off. The old gasket was cork, so no probs there.
EDIT: Sorry about the shite pic, but are we talking about the same thing?
![]()
Last edited by tricky; 20-01-2006 at 11:20 PM.
that should have a little pipe coming of it going to the inlet manifold
i have a few spare
JZX83+ FMIC+ Twin 2.5" dumps to 3"+ FCD+ 2800rpm stallie+ 14psi - LSD - good tyres = 12.85 @105.58
The boobs are back
RC has no breatherOriginally Posted by tricky
RG does
Do you wanna PM me with a price?Originally Posted by Mr DOHC
![]()
Strictly speaking, that part is not really needed. As long as you've got the tappet cover breather flowing well, you shouldn't have any troubles with the engine.
I removed one before so that it would look like all the emmossion points were still linked up and active for registration purposes.
One thing I would suggest for all 18RG owners is a catch can, especially when using ramflo filters with the tappet cover breather plumbed into the back of the filters.
We had a few issues with oil vapour soaking the air filters.
With a catch can with a great deal of stainless steel scourer in there to catch the vapour, we haven't had half the problem we had before.
I will add this though, make sure that the PCV system does vent correctly because if it doesn't, you lose your dipstick as it flies out of its hole and sprays oil all over your engine bay.
Strong like horse, smort like tractor!
(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
yes, and all over your very hot extractors
JZX83+ FMIC+ Twin 2.5" dumps to 3"+ FCD+ 2800rpm stallie+ 14psi - LSD - good tyres = 12.85 @105.58
The boobs are back
hi i have 2 18rg heads cams one inlet manifold and one exhaust manifold i am goin to put them onto my 18r block which has only done 92000km since new lol i was wondering if n e one use fellors had the other stuf i would need to bolt it onto the block eg timing cover. and wat should i do bout my dizzy? im a beginer
thanks heeps leroy
u need an aux shaft, timing cover, block breather {not needed really}, dipstick onthe other side, u should really get an oil sender put in to the mount on the side of the motor
JZX83+ FMIC+ Twin 2.5" dumps to 3"+ FCD+ 2800rpm stallie+ 14psi - LSD - good tyres = 12.85 @105.58
The boobs are back
chains and guides too
JZX83+ FMIC+ Twin 2.5" dumps to 3"+ FCD+ 2800rpm stallie+ 14psi - LSD - good tyres = 12.85 @105.58
The boobs are back
leroy, good luck finding some 18rg pistons aswell.
What do you use as a catch can? and what happens when it is full? Could you perhaps use the block breather to run the oil back into the block? Can you post a pic of your PCV systen?Originally Posted by Steve M
Projects:
- Blue RA23 - loud 18RG - road car
- Yellow RA23 - tired 18RGEU - track car (in progress)
Originally Posted by tricky
if i send it COD, and u pay the postage, u can HAVE it
JZX83+ FMIC+ Twin 2.5" dumps to 3"+ FCD+ 2800rpm stallie+ 14psi - LSD - good tyres = 12.85 @105.58
The boobs are back
1. Catch can is made from an International Roast coffee tin (small one) that has two 90degree copper plumbing elbows soldered into the lid. One for in, one for out.Originally Posted by RA23
The one that carries the gas intot the can extends further into the tin so that the drips don't get blown straight through into the out pipe, which can happen.
Tube goes from tappet cover to the can. Second tube goes from the can to air filter.
As stated in previous post, we stuffed a whole lot of stainless steel scourer (curly stuff, not steel wool) into the can to act as condensation nuclei.
2.Easy, that's why we used a coffee tin, you just take the lid off and empty it.
It also has a nice little flange that supports the can on the 0.8mm steel tape bracket.
3. I suppose so, but that would mean that the air coming from the block breather would blow up from the bottom of the catch can and put all the oil straight up into the out hole, thus defeating the purpose of the catch can.
It also means that we would have soldered another outlet onto the tin, which just would have been a pain in my arse.
4. Not really, no digicam and I still haven't figured out the whole hosting pistures thing, I'm sure it isn't that hard but I have a car to finish before I take on any more heavy study.![]()
Here's a concept map of how the gas flows through our PCV system:
Tappet cover -> tube -> can inlet pipe -> st. steel scourer -> can outlet pipe -> tube -> engine intake.
I hope that explains it, if not, just ask more questions or PM me.
Strong like horse, smort like tractor!
(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
Also 18R-C pistons fit in the 18R-G with no problems at all plus 18R-C conrods work as well plus they are lighter than RG ones but make sure u use the 4 18R-C ones,not like I did and busted a piston and bent a rodplus from my own experiences with RG'S I reckon with using flat top 18R-C pistons the engine revs alot smoother than RG pistons,and it also revs harder and not as harsh as RG pistons.
Cheers Brett.