3T Versus 3T GTE conrods - Page 2

**TheToyman75** · #21 25-05-2006, 10:10 AM

All T series engines have the same rod length except the "T" (The 1.4l)

The pin and crank bearing sizes are all the same.

The Oil passage location varies between the engines so make sure you get the right bearings !!! Here is a pic of a 3T-GTE rod as fitted with a 2T bearing.

The 3T-GTE rods are allegedly stronger and forged.

I personally have swung the stock 2TG rods and stock 3T-GTE rods to 8500rpm on a very regular occasion.

Ryan with the infamous white & Red 10sec 3T-GTE powered TA22 in the US campaigned on stock 3T-GTE rods until he bent one.

Why use Forged rods (And yes I have a set of Eagle rods for mine) ?

$$$$ As Jason has illistrated above, They are a very similar price to a set of prepped stock ones (Possible more if you have to buy the 3T-GTE Rods first

)

Weight - Comparison of the rod weights is coming

Strength - They are stronger which is never a bad thing.

Reliability - No urban myth or question here, By nature of design and construction they have to be better than the stock rods when used in High load applications.

Coolness - They look good listed in your engine parts list

TA22 GT · #22 25-05-2006, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sillycar chick

I hope now Simon (and any others) has all the information he was looking for

Thanks guys, I already have a 3T GTE. I just want to know if Eagle rods will fit and from this discussion it seems they are the way to go as they are another step up on the 3T GTE rods I already have.

Cheers,
Simon

**YelloRolla** · #23 25-05-2006, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sillycar chick

You are correct, and thanks for pointing that out

Someone had already addressed the fact that they will fit, I was merely addressing the fact that they are however not the same so that others didnt get confused in the future and end up having the wear the expenses associated with throwing a rod through the block becuase someone said they were all the same

Indeed and it was a well spotted difference!

Quote:

Originally Posted by YelloRolla

Oh and whats more - I am led to belive that the 3T GTE rod is forged whereas the 3TC rod is not.

I guess I was a bit vague when I pointed out that the GTE items are forged.

TA22 GT · #24 26-05-2006, 01:24 PM

I called High Performance World and got a quote of $565 for the Eagle rods.

Anyone know where I can get a better price?

Cheers,
Simon

setsuna · #25 26-05-2006, 02:29 PM

thats the price I quoted, why be so suprised?

there are some available on ebay.com us site.
expect between 65-100$ postage to australia though.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...spagenameZWDVW

works out to be about the same price, but local.
also those rods use the 5/16 bolts, not the 3/8 bolts.

TA22 GT · #26 26-05-2006, 11:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by setsuna

thats the price I quoted, why be so suprised?

.

Haha, good point. Just hoping someone else is selling them cheaper.....

Cheers,
Simon

**YelloRolla** · #27 27-05-2006, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by setsuna

thats the price I quoted, why be so suprised?

That price is good esp for those of us in Sydney can get out there and buy a set on a Saturday morning.

The set that I have here were bought from the ebay mob and are fitted with 3/8 bolts.

AE25 · #28 27-06-2006, 08:36 PM

could try these guys in the states... remember to convert thier prices from US$ to AU$ + shipping

http://www.brdracing.com/
http://www.paradiseracing.com/
http://psiracing.com/
http://www.theracingstore.com/

setsuna · #29 07-07-2006, 03:15 PM

'go out there and buy a set on sunday'
oh joy! if only that was possible!

I placed my order (and paid!!) 7 and a half weeks ago. was looking at 4-5 weeks to arrive.

WRONG!!

7.5 in now, and another delay of another 1.5weeks so they say. (so I guess that may mean 3weeks, or more?)

quite frustrating, and not as happy and easy and pleasing as I first posted.

if I knew this was going to be the case, I would have bought them through someone else, and have had them by now!

9 weeks is damn well insane!

nothing I can do I guess. they have my money, and thats what counts.

ahh well.. my bad luck with peformance shops.

last time cmp ordered the wrong pistons and bored the block to suit. stuffed up other options.
*crys*

will my car ever run again

setsuna · #30 25-07-2006, 11:35 PM

welp.. rods *finally* came... after 10 weeks..
shiney stuff arrives, woes forgotten..
have some pics

-DAvid

*mmh seamless*

CHB · #31 25-07-2006, 11:51 PM

how to get these rods onto the crank?? it looks like it is in one piece

3sgte · #32 26-07-2006, 12:03 AM

Could you please post a pic with the big end cap off?

Seems that the socks came off while you were waiting...

setsuna · #33 26-07-2006, 12:24 AM

its extremely well mated pair of surfaces, if you look closely, you can just see a hairline join..

and with the endcap partially off. you can see a centering dowel type thingy where the bolt goes through into the rod side..

and it all the way off!

-DAvid

GeneSPIDA · #34 27-07-2006, 10:25 PM

They do look like a VERY nice set of rods.

I was wondering where the join was myself. Very well matted.

TA22 GT · #35 25-05-2007, 08:54 PM

Guys,
I just got some eagle rods and notice that they don't have an oil gallery for the pin? I see a small hole at the top of the rod, I assume this will get enough lubrication?

Based on this I'm also guessing that I can use either 2T or 3T G rod bearings as no oil hole is needed?

Cheers,
Simon

**YelloRolla** · #36 28-05-2007, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TA22 GT

Guys,
I just got some eagle rods and notice that they don't have an oil gallery for the pin? I see a small hole at the top of the rod, I assume this will get enough lubrication?

Yes, the little end needs only a very small amount of lubrication. It will get oil that drips off the under side of the piston crown.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TA22 GT

Based on this I'm also guessing that I can use either 2T or 3T G rod bearings as no oil hole is needed?

Cheers,
Simon

I think that the oil squirter hole should be drilled into the rod. This is there to squirt oil on the load side of the bore.

TA22 GT · #37 28-05-2007, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YelloRolla

I think that the oil squirter hole should be drilled into the rod. This is there to squirt oil on the load side of the bore.

Jase,
OK, a couple of dumb questions-

Which is the correct side and location for the hole? I assume only a small hole is needed, eg 1mm?
Also what happens if I don't drill the hole and if I do won't it weaken the rod?

Finally does the stock rod have this squirter hole?

Cheers,
Simon

**YelloRolla** · #38 28-05-2007, 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TA22 GT

Jase,
OK, a couple of dumb questions-

Which is the correct side and location for the hole? I assume only a small hole is needed, eg 1mm?

on the right side (from the driver's seat)

Quote:

Originally Posted by TA22 GT

Also what happens if I don't drill the hole and if I do won't it weaken the rod?

I don't have the definitive answer to the first part of this question: I suspect that there will be enough oil flying around to offer sufficient lubrication to that area, but the factory did it for a reason, so maybe longevity will suffer. As for the rod being weakened; no. rods generally don't break in that area, they break further up the beam.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TA22 GT

Finally does the stock rod have this squirter hole?

Yes it does.

TA22 GT · #39 28-05-2007, 10:09 AM

Thanx Jase, a great help as usual.

So my best bet would be to drill a hole in the same spot and size as the stock rods?

Anyone got a pic of the hole in the stock rod? I'm a slow worker and am just gathering bits for a rebuild ATM

Cheers,
Simon

**YelloRolla** · #40 28-05-2007, 12:12 PM

Get you hands on a second hand bearing (the 3T bearings have the hole in a different spot to the 3T GTE bearings), and use that as your guide. The hole will only need to be 1.2 to 1.5mm maximum with a chamfer to lead into the hole.

4340 is tough material. I suggest the use of a cobalt drill, low speeds (relative to diameter - in this case 1200rpm is still slow for the drill), make sure that the drill hole is started with a centre drill and use Rocol RTD cutting compound.